Weird swell angle today got a wave breaking in a way that you don't typically see. I kept trying to ride it and I ended up doing more face plants in one session than the rest of the year combined. I think the side of my face is bruised.
Chest high wave that was soft, soft, soft and then in the space of about 6 feet, where you had to catch it, the water went from a gentle hill to insanely hollow. I never did get it quite figured out, I was misjudging where the wave was transitioning from rolling hill to double black diamond. Riding my flat rockered twin fin didn't help.
Blame it on the board right, it's not just that I suck?
Chest high wave that was soft, soft, soft and then in the space of about 6 feet, where you had to catch it, the water went from a gentle hill to insanely hollow. I never did get it quite figured out, I was misjudging where the wave was transitioning from rolling hill to double black diamond. Riding my flat rockered twin fin didn't help.
Blame it on the board right, it's not just that I suck?