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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
I gotta say it's pretty nice. His kids look at me weird though
My regular looked really good today, solid DOH and spitting barrels (with a LOT of closeouts) but ultra-consistent to point that... no. 
Like everyone else felt, the reward/pain ratio wasn't worth it. Checked a few other mysto spots in the area but none were working. Checked my regular again and more of the same but fast dropping tide wasn't helping it, closing out more. Having 2 separate medium-sized swells screwed things up I think.
So instead went to the local crap shorebreak place that I never go to. Really wasn't great, waist to shoulder high shoredump, 90% closeouts. OK, 98%. But felt nice to just fuck around a bit and damned if I didn't slot into a barrel first wave and doggie door it out. That was surprising. Although small, dumpy, waves had a fair amount of thump all things considered. Got a series of other closeouts, mostly a quick entry to briefest of views and then done. Then just goofing around on inside, did a half-assed duck dive under a set wave that broke in front of me. Thumped me so much harder than expected, was laughing underwater as board ripped out of my hands. Then board must have bounced off bottom and center fin hit me right in the crotch, just a couple inches up and right of my junk. I'm glad the water was cold. Still kind of funny because no real pain, wasn't a hard hit, couple yanked pubes at worst. But I flip my board around and WTF! Ripped the middle fin box right out.
Thank god it was the new(ish) Senate and not the coveted 6'7". Still, though, what a sh!t glass job. A few months ago, my elbow love-taps the rail and stoves it in a few inches (WTF) and now a crotch tap rips the fin box right out.
And the worst part of it is I lost the center Gorilla fin that Aruka hooked me up with! That is the bitterness right there. Those fins made a mediocre board serviceable. Alas.
Like everyone else felt, the reward/pain ratio wasn't worth it. Checked a few other mysto spots in the area but none were working. Checked my regular again and more of the same but fast dropping tide wasn't helping it, closing out more. Having 2 separate medium-sized swells screwed things up I think. So instead went to the local crap shorebreak place that I never go to. Really wasn't great, waist to shoulder high shoredump, 90% closeouts. OK, 98%. But felt nice to just fuck around a bit and damned if I didn't slot into a barrel first wave and doggie door it out. That was surprising. Although small, dumpy, waves had a fair amount of thump all things considered. Got a series of other closeouts, mostly a quick entry to briefest of views and then done. Then just goofing around on inside, did a half-assed duck dive under a set wave that broke in front of me. Thumped me so much harder than expected, was laughing underwater as board ripped out of my hands. Then board must have bounced off bottom and center fin hit me right in the crotch, just a couple inches up and right of my junk. I'm glad the water was cold. Still kind of funny because no real pain, wasn't a hard hit, couple yanked pubes at worst. But I flip my board around and WTF! Ripped the middle fin box right out.
Thank god it was the new(ish) Senate and not the coveted 6'7". Still, though, what a sh!t glass job. A few months ago, my elbow love-taps the rail and stoves it in a few inches (WTF) and now a crotch tap rips the fin box right out.
And the worst part of it is I lost the center Gorilla fin that Aruka hooked me up with! That is the bitterness right there. Those fins made a mediocre board serviceable. Alas.
Another epic morning. Size jumped up a bit from Sat, but conditions were flawless. Light offshore and not that I'm complaining but surprised at lack of surfers looking for waves along the 1. There was just enough size to get some mysto reefs going and they were so clean. Not ultra consistent but it didn't matter. One of those days you just can't believe how lucky you are to be experiencing that exact moment in time.
And I need a board with more paddling power. Holy cow. Arms and shoulders not what they used to be. 6-9" step up instead of 6-7" or go for more volume in the 6-7" ?
And I need a board with more paddling power. Holy cow. Arms and shoulders not what they used to be. 6-9" step up instead of 6-7" or go for more volume in the 6-7" ?
Yeah, Aruka, I love those fins. Thanks again. Bright side is that at least it was a middle one that went and I still have the two side fins. Hopefully can order a singleton center fin but if not, at least it will be symmetrical.
I actually had my 6'7" with me and thought about paddling back out with it but given waves, that would been the very definition of throwing good money after bad.
Oh yeah, the second worst thing is that my 6'8" will be ready in the next few weeks and throwing this board into the ding repair rotation will only slow down my new board! I'm kidding, I knew the time frame when I ordered it back in September and not remotely tripping. Saw the shaped blank, sleek template, really nice rocker, and some hard ass rails. That will be interesting. Was concerned at first but then looked at my other good boards and they're not dissimilar. In fact the new 6'6" has soft rails, as did that QuiverKiller, and I am not design maven but I'm guessing that's not conducive for knifing into waves. Super psyched to get the new board. And it's actually over 2 1/2" thick. 
(2 5/8" )
I actually had my 6'7" with me and thought about paddling back out with it but given waves, that would been the very definition of throwing good money after bad.
Oh yeah, the second worst thing is that my 6'8" will be ready in the next few weeks and throwing this board into the ding repair rotation will only slow down my new board!
I'm kidding, I knew the time frame when I ordered it back in September and not remotely tripping. Saw the shaped blank, sleek template, really nice rocker, and some hard ass rails. That will be interesting. Was concerned at first but then looked at my other good boards and they're not dissimilar. In fact the new 6'6" has soft rails, as did that QuiverKiller, and I am not design maven but I'm guessing that's not conducive for knifing into waves. Super psyched to get the new board. And it's actually over 2 1/2" thick. (2 5/8" )
First surf in a bit. spent the last two days I the car for 14+ hours plus some adventurous walking for work then buying a new horse with the wife. My body felt awful when I got up and I splurged ona fatty breakfast, rolled up to the spot late but things came together for me. Despite the solid Sunday crowd i got a ton of waves over 2.5 hours at a winter regular. I even lucked Into a couple of overhead set waves. I wasn’t surfing best but I wasn’t doin too bad considering how little I’ve been in the water. Beautiful conditions today, I thoroughly enjoyed the tide pools on the way out.
Oh and I saw a meyerhoffer in the wild. Wtf are those things
7 of the last 10 days out here. Water still 72.
The good life.
The good life.
Two semi frustrating days in a row at the big beachbreak.
Saturday felt super long period, swell was building. I was determined to give my newly-refubished bonzer another go in what I assumed would be near the top of its range. It seemed to work, but it was mostly just inconsistent and the few that I caught were just drops to nothing.
Today paddled for 4.5 hours continuously to catch 3 waves. It was big, relatively clean surface, but just felt weird out there. Capping way outside, breaking way inside, too big to fuck around with it and sit inside. Always nice to paddle around in size, but god I did enough of that today.
Saturday felt super long period, swell was building. I was determined to give my newly-refubished bonzer another go in what I assumed would be near the top of its range. It seemed to work, but it was mostly just inconsistent and the few that I caught were just drops to nothing.
Today paddled for 4.5 hours continuously to catch 3 waves. It was big, relatively clean surface, but just felt weird out there. Capping way outside, breaking way inside, too big to fuck around with it and sit inside. Always nice to paddle around in size, but god I did enough of that today.
Do some connect all the way to the shore?7 of the last 10 days out here. Water still 72.
The good life.
Checked the cams at dawn, yawn, take a shower. Just before committing to some serious house work, I check again at 9:30. Umm, err, chores can wait. Get to the beach and grab the last parking spot, go sit on a bench and check it. Hmm, i see some fun ones, and lots of bogus ones. After being entertained by a little kid that fingered all the donuts, getting his mom riled up, decide to paddle out. The first dude I see, at 70, basically tells me it's weak sauce, good luck and it's crowded. I knew what I was getting into. It was only chest high, lull again (I'm a broken record on this one, sigh), finally a wave, we make it a party wave. I was in the back, pearled like you wouldn't believe, on a waist high one. I had to laugh. Sat just inside the pack, a wonky semi-doubleup comes through. I says whatevahs and go for it. Catch the little teeny part that perked up, and somehow it pushed me enough to encourage more paddles. Turned into a speed demon. Sometimes the ugliest ones are the sweetest. A bit later, shredder guy can't quite catch it, and gives me, the rare for this place, nod in. Longest ride of the day for me. I told him he gave me a mental pushin to that one.
Tide started dropping like a rock, crowd halves, I move over to the low-tide zone. Size increased, got a few HH that allowed for some serious smack and crack moves. I wouldn't say the waves were great, but it was a most pleasurable session. Never had to put my game face on, all fun. 3 hour session, that's long for moi.
Funny chit: Must be early Spring Break. Multiple family groups "surfing" with no wetsuits. Water is <60 F.
Mostly walled and bad but I got three diamonds in the rough on the borrowed twinsman pin. Damn this board rips. It's like paddling on a 70's singlefin but it just flat out shreds.
Pretty much sounds like what was on tap for the beachbreak a little further north. It looked like a lot of paddling but not outward. I admire your perseverance.
do both then decide?Another epic morning. Size jumped up a bit from Sat, but conditions were flawless. Light offshore and not that I'm complaining but surprised at lack of surfers looking for waves along the 1. There was just enough size to get some mysto reefs going and they were so clean. Not ultra consistent but it didn't matter. One of those days you just can't believe how lucky you are to be experiencing that exact moment in time.
And I need a board with more paddling power. Holy cow. Arms and shoulders not what they used to be. 6-9" step up instead of 6-7" or go for more volume in the 6-7" ?
As we all do, I've forever been futzing about with a litre here, an inch there. After our move north, getting used to different waves, I'm on a completely different tack: need more paddle power? here's an extra 6" or 10 litres!Another epic morning. Size jumped up a bit from Sat, but conditions were flawless. Light offshore and not that I'm complaining but surprised at lack of surfers looking for waves along the 1. There was just enough size to get some mysto reefs going and they were so clean. Not ultra consistent but it didn't matter. One of those days you just can't believe how lucky you are to be experiencing that exact moment in time.
And I need a board with more paddling power. Holy cow. Arms and shoulders not what they used to be. 6-9" step up instead of 6-7" or go for more volume in the 6-7" ?
3-4 hours at the big sandbar, probably paddling 5 miles or more, and I'll happily jump on a 6'10 @ 44L, even if it's only 8ft faces. Screw incrementalism - especially as you get older (that'll be me).
I surfed 2/19 and 2/23. Fun little ones out the back. A few pods of dolphins were going bananas on 2/23. 6 foot airs, running over each other on the inner bar, zipping past guys.
The wife went into labor at midnight Friday morning. We rode some long period ones through the day and had a baby boy at 9:21 on Friday. Birthing as wild.
The wife went into labor at midnight Friday morning. We rode some long period ones through the day and had a baby boy at 9:21 on Friday. Birthing as wild.
straight west walled thumpers with an annoying crowd. overhead outside sets broke top to bottom. got 3 waves and called it a day before i break my boar or get injured. burned the chit out of a backpaddler on my last one and waved at them while riding all the way into the beach as they were splashing and yelling after getting dusted by yo. good times!
@Senor Sopa - no thankfully not. Keeps people away, as it's a very long paddle. Almost a mile to the outside peak.
another sesh on the SBD stumps twinny. Most of my twins are a bit fishy, so this boar just feels more shortboard-y, nicely foiled and foam well hidden.
Midday low tide. Other reefs were bigger, but didn't have time for a long paddle, so went to main reef for Hh sets with only 15 guys out (half were just buoys). Not as clean as it looked from beach, kinda sloppy and section-y, but still fun. Weird swell, little bit wonky on the face. Had a couple hiccups on FS open-face slashes, but I'm gonna give the Stumps the benefit of the doubt and say it was bumps on the face. The couple insiders I snagged paddling back out were maybe a touch cleaner, and got a little shampoo coverup on the inside hook section. Gorgeous sunny day. chilly water tho
Midday low tide. Other reefs were bigger, but didn't have time for a long paddle, so went to main reef for Hh sets with only 15 guys out (half were just buoys). Not as clean as it looked from beach, kinda sloppy and section-y, but still fun. Weird swell, little bit wonky on the face. Had a couple hiccups on FS open-face slashes, but I'm gonna give the Stumps the benefit of the doubt and say it was bumps on the face. The couple insiders I snagged paddling back out were maybe a touch cleaner, and got a little shampoo coverup on the inside hook section. Gorgeous sunny day. chilly water tho
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