i had a couple friends who rode for him under his AKA label for a while. his shortboards looked good, never rode one of em though.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Fucked my knee in junky surf. I blame Fu Wax +booties. Back foot was locked in as I mistimed floating some lip crumble and had my knee yanked outward until I felt a pop and searing pain. MCL definitely damaged. We will see about ACL once swelling goes down and i can tolerate a mobility test. First knee injury.
As I'm driving home, wife calls distraught because my 14 month old fell in the tub and was underwater on her back for several seconds. Later in the day, my son projectile vomited. Mercury is in retrograde until Friday. Nobody move!
As I'm driving home, wife calls distraught because my 14 month old fell in the tub and was underwater on her back for several seconds. Later in the day, my son projectile vomited. Mercury is in retrograde until Friday. Nobody move!
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damn dude. sorry about the knee. i've decided knees suck.
surfed the local this afternoon. there was an occasional decent set but none of the tweeners were breaking and the lulls were ridiculous. water is absolutely freezing. i got like two good ones and a few that jusr ran the whole way. Insanity with P8 thruster fins felt too pivotal and not quite fast enough to keep pace with the racing walls. the sand bar is pretty jank. oh well.
Garbage sh!t bag farts this morning.
6’1truster helped navigate the bump. At least water is warm.
6’1truster helped navigate the bump. At least water is warm.
well his 6’6 OTR ghost-shaper boars either go for $550... or $1200! #hipstersufshoptax
Wonder how much he charges the shops?
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Finally wrapped up a long stretch of working way too much. I took the morning off and tried out O’s plasmic. The first wave I surfed was decent but the crowd of longboards and bad attitudes quickly made me want to surf elsewhere. There were three guys arguing and splashing each other because one of them was looking for a dog sitter but the other guys hadnt responded to his texts. Sounds like last time one of them dog sat there were fleas and some other incidents.
I got a couple decent peaks off the bat but surfed them like sh!t. The board felt super tracky and left me feeling confused. I was running NVS album fins and they just weren’t doing it. After the crowd burned me out I went in and swapped out for NVS Knox twins to surf a high tide spot nearby. What a game changer. Despite the longboard wave outside connecting through, meaning less opportunity for a solo inside wave, I had a blast. The board felt fast, snappy and easy to throw into the lip. Im excited to surf it more.
I got a couple decent peaks off the bat but surfed them like sh!t. The board felt super tracky and left me feeling confused. I was running NVS album fins and they just weren’t doing it. After the crowd burned me out I went in and swapped out for NVS Knox twins to surf a high tide spot nearby. What a game changer. Despite the longboard wave outside connecting through, meaning less opportunity for a solo inside wave, I had a blast. The board felt fast, snappy and easy to throw into the lip. Im excited to surf it more.
Couldn’t peel away from work this morning so window shrunk down to a tight 20’ (soccer-style min notation for Ruka). 18’ of water time was pushing it even for me but main reef looked kinda fun. Snagged 5 quick ones including one gem that stood up with a long open face to slice up through to the sand. Quick fix but man, that wave felt good
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The Knox twins look like the FCS Fanning twins with the square tip?
so what, did you have 2' of stoppage time bc someone flopped and faked an injury?
the surf gods are upset with me. it looked fun at the local when i pulled up so i quickly suited and ran down there. in the 5 minutes it took to get suited the wind had turned onshore and a fog bank started to move in. got a couple lumpy runners on the asym townsend and then called it.
There were two brazzos out. It’s just part of the game down there
Just pulled up the specs, looks like the Knox sit a bit deeper, are slightly larger, have less rake and less cant.
I hate the look though, I wish it was a normal rounded tip. Vanity doesn't usually get me with surf products but they're ugly.
I think they're hideous too. I'll safely dispose of them for you if you want.
Slow this morning with some pulses. Made the mistake riding the spark plug and should have gone with a quad cause I needed to get up and go very quickly.
late morning solo sesh at an out of the way spot. Thought I spied some mushburgers way out there so went for the novelty since the main reefs were way too crowded for the conditions. Surf this deep-water spot maybe once a year. Forgot how long the paddle out there is and how much water is moving around when it hits the reef even though it looks mushy. Once I got out, sets were HH and churning a lot of froth and crumble. Lots of paddling, trying to lineup with some landmarks but tough staying in the right spot for takeoff. Got a couple frothy ones where I mostly tried not to get bucked off and snuck in a cutback when I could. Definitely burgers out after the first speedy section after takeoff. One of the few times I actually wished there was someone else out, just to lineup off of. After a 3rd wave, I bellied in, then snagged a cheeky insider next to the rocks. This put me way down from where I wanted to get out, so had to do a long rockdance to get out of the water.
You need to carry a fireturd sand drawer next time so you can sketch a "X" on the beach so you can line up
Brah. The south shore has been pumping. Surfed Tuesday morning at Big Bowl and my last 4 waves were absolutely f*cked. Paddled for a roll-in barrel and a guy was in my line. Spent the whole wave just in front of the whitewater as it tubed down the line. Had to jump over a lady booger cause she couldn’t be bothered to paddle into the whitewash and take one on the head. Clipped a friends heel while I bottom turned around him. Didnt even see him. Glad he didn’t get hurt.
Last wave trying to get into the right spot during a ten minute set. Finally position by the boil and stroked into a medium one. As soon as I stood up the lip pitched me over. Didn’t bounce on the impact but while I was rolling underwater hit my head my chest and my fist looks like I punched the reef. Hand swoll up.
On a group text I told the crew I bounced and can’t surf tomorrow. Gregg texted back rub some Vagisil on it and come surf. I used that burn on him a few years back and he waited all this time to throw it back in my face. Hahaha. Told him good job.
Wasn’t sure I could pop up and duck dive this morning but went out anyway. It was super good, lots of OH waves. Put some deposits into the karma bank. Called some groms and a friends wife into sets. Waves were so good and plentiful the crew was taking turns, talking crap and cheering for each other. They didn’t mind letting some nuggets go.
Last wave trying to get into the right spot during a ten minute set. Finally position by the boil and stroked into a medium one. As soon as I stood up the lip pitched me over. Didn’t bounce on the impact but while I was rolling underwater hit my head my chest and my fist looks like I punched the reef. Hand swoll up.
On a group text I told the crew I bounced and can’t surf tomorrow. Gregg texted back rub some Vagisil on it and come surf. I used that burn on him a few years back and he waited all this time to throw it back in my face. Hahaha. Told him good job.
Wasn’t sure I could pop up and duck dive this morning but went out anyway. It was super good, lots of OH waves. Put some deposits into the karma bank. Called some groms and a friends wife into sets. Waves were so good and plentiful the crew was taking turns, talking crap and cheering for each other. They didn’t mind letting some nuggets go.
Going to plan a bowls trip this summer and paddle deep and take the first set wave. Anyone gives me crap I’m gonna yell teeroi mutha fucka