***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular on the 5’10 Tokoro 4X. Took a bunch of waves on the head paddling out. Which is a good sign of pumping surf. With the low flat tide and long period swell I was worried it would get inconsistent. If I’m not the first one out I normally let a couple of sets go by until I work my way into the rotation. Today I went on the first wave I could get. Got a roll-in made a couple of sections then the wave ran away.

Scrambled for 3 more waves before the crowd filled in. Glad I did cause it went lully and when a set would rolled in lots of one wave sets.

Stayed out long enough to enjoy a pulse of waves then it went slow again. Stayed out too long for that. Waited for one of the guys to pull back on a late one and whipped on it to go in.

There's energy in the water and conditions are nice just those long period swells get inconsistent.

On a funny side note John surfed his Flat Earth at Rockpiles Right. He told Jeannie in the parking lot Troy probably got more jokes today gonna practice on some frontside rights before I surf Bowls with this board again. Haha.

 

[Aruka]

A leisurely 42’

pls stop

 

[Oceanslide]

Would be cool to wake up one morning and not see my palm trees blowing everywhere
from N, S, or W.

 

[teeroi]

South shore is pumping again. Dawned the regular on the 6’1 HIC M7. Boar was a little long. Could’ve used the 5’10 but was hoping to hunt Big Bowl barrels. It’s kinda in between size where it’s breaking in the Middles and in the Bowl.

Fell in a couple barrels. Got clamped at Big Bowl and got a long closeout at Middles.

The 6’1 is still pretty good doing turns, went vert on a couple.

Neal was out shooting. Told me I was getting too much on my heels on late drops. Good advise. Sorted it out on a couple other drops.

I think tomorrow will be good as the swell drops. And Big Bowl will fire back up in a couple days.

 

[oeste858]

nothing as exciting as big bowl barrels, but got in a quick sunset sesh at reef2. pretty fun as the wind died down a bit, to at least sideshore. 8 guys out, all on logs/mids. oof. Got a few punchy WH-CH runners underneath the pack through to the inside and around some rocks. FS carves felt pretty good. water's warm.
Only bummer was one loudmouth 50's local who didn't shut up the whole time out there, talk-shouting to /at his buddy at a higher-than-needed volume. Everyone else was rolling their eyes. Some people just like the sound of their own voice. jeez

 

[j_mac]

I had last minute trip to Oahu to catch the south swell with a buddy. However, my buddy got COVID and the solo costs were a bit much, so I cancelled/postponed. Instead I drove south to SoCal to catch the south swell, stopping at various random spots. Some days I surfed 4 times throughout the day at differing locations, as I drove either north or south. It was great to get out of my bubble. I did quick stops at Album and Varial.

I enjoyed the warmer water, no ear plugs and it made getting in and out of nasty wet wetsuit bearable. I lucked out and got a number of good sessions and met nice folks in the water or in the parking lot.

It has been years since I have been down south, forgot about the traffic volume. I also couldn't believe the number of surfers in the water.

This morning - cold, clear water and had the spot to myself for an hour - good to be home!

 

[Aruka]

Couldn't help it and went for an afternoon quicky at an old/new left sand bar. It was wild and chaotic combo style swell but there was actually a pretty focused part of the bar that offering up some consistent waves. I rode the 6-6 townsend which felt like a good call. It was overhead on the sets but kind of slopey. Decent power but no tubes or anything. It felt so good to get some drops and slide down the line. First few waves I didn't try to do anything other than just make it through sections and cruise. Finally got a nuggy one and couldn't help but do a few turns. It was actually a really good wave and much needed. I have some great memories surfing this board at this same spot a couple years ago. I got a few more fun ones but I didn't want to push it. Surfed for an hour or so, got maybe ten waves and then called it. Just trying not to aggravate the knee. Felt fine while surfing but we'll see how it feels tomorrow. Last time I surfed it felt pretty stiff when I woke up the next morning. My knee, you damn pervs.

 

[20W-50 and blood]

covid and ran over by a boat. what do i win?

 

[oeste858]

fun morning sesh on rising high tide at reef3. WH-CH and a bit crumbly but not too windy yet. Mostly a low-skill level crowd on the left, so my buddy and I paddled a little further south and took the rights. Bit shifty but most of them ran for a bit if you got around a section or two and got a couple fs slashies in. Was able to come from way deep on a couple cheeky set lefts to surprise the pack. Water is toasty.

my buddy got a new CSS shop label 6’6 tri egg and he was stocked. Looked way better boar than his previous SC shop label 6’8 quad/single funbort- which I tried a few weeks ago and it surfed like an unturnable hot mess. New one felt good under arm and was shaped by Jay Novak. Never heard of him but he also apparently shapes shop boars for a hipster retro shop, down south of The 8, that wanted to charge him 70% more for a similar boar with resin tint and gloss polish. So my friend felt like he got a deal, even if the shop was much less hip. LOL

 

[need 4 speed]

Late morning waist-chest predominately NW wind swell w/ rising tide and south wind funk on it,. A few fairly fun waves, made two nice frontside drop/bottom turn/drive to 180 RH cut back/rebound off foam ball . New 6-2 bat tail twinzer eating it up,0 bog, drive all the way through the turn. Super fun to feel it work really well.

 

[Aruka]

The local was crowded with weekend noobs and looked fairly walled up anyways. Opted for slightly less clean but consistent lefts at the same spot as yesterday. Townsend again with Shapers AR twins. Feels like a good fin for this boar. Similar conditions to yesterday but better. More power. Got about 10 fun ones and then sat through a lull and my feet started getting cold so I took one in. Water dropped from yesterday. Back to the mid 40's I'd guess. Still, so nice to be back in the water. Two days in a row!

 

[tedshred5]

Spent the last couple days in a well known zone of northern Baja. Caught solid SSW swell the first 2 days while down there, lines out the horizon, had the right of my (recent) life on the Moonstone. Twice a day sessions, surfed out. Back in town for an AM session today in fun punchy windswell beachbreak and was definitely feeling the fatigue in my shoulders with paddling. Been riding the 6’6 Moonstone and 5’8 RNF96 exclusively the past 4 days.

 

[tedshred5]

Really chunky short period beachbreak again this AM. Took out the Mini Ghost as it’s been neglected, and it was the right choice. Dark Arts thruster set felt good- plenty of hold/control, and a lot more pivot than the AM2s I normally run with this boar

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

3 day weekend. not a lot of windows. Missed the only ones.
Hopefully I'll get an opening Wednesday morning or I'm waiting until the weekend.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Washed off my 3 day hangover this morning. Fun paddle

6'1" mitsven was perfect. First half of sesh sucked but these rights started stacking at one point and got a few good ones. Best wave had a nice vertical hack with a fin throw immediately into a bottom turn carve combo. Felt good.

 

[i_ride_spinnaz]

fun morning sesh on rising high tide at reef3. WH-CH and a bit crumbly but not too windy yet. Mostly a low-skill level crowd on the left, so my buddy and I paddled a little further south and took the rights. Bit shifty but most of them ran for a bit if you got around a section or two and got a couple fs slashies in. Was able to come from way deep on a couple cheeky set lefts to surprise the pack. Water is toasty.

my buddy got a new CSS shop label 6’6 tri egg and he was stocked. Looked way better boar than his previous SC shop label 6’8 quad/single funbort- which I tried a few weeks ago and it surfed like an unturnable hot mess. New one felt good under arm and was shaped by Jay Novak. Never heard of him but he also apparently shapes shop boars for a hipster retro shop, down south of The 8, that wanted to charge him 70% more for a similar boar with resin tint and gloss polish. So my friend felt like he got a deal, even if the shop was much less hip. LOL

He used to shape for AKA 15+ years ago, which was a decent sized label at one point-- he's shaped for a long time and has made a lot of boards

 

[silentbutdeadly]

never ridden one but know a couple that have and they go good according to them. Another underground guy with a ton of boards under his belt that could probably shape some great stuff if you worked with him.

 

[sdsrfr]

Had a used Novak rocket knockoff way back when. Decent boar, just not the design for me.

when I was chatting with him for a potential custom he seemed like a decent duu more than capable of mowing foam and willing to do what the customer asks.

have heard his name come up more than a few times under various ghost shaped labels, as he did for AKA.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

He used to shape for AKA 15+ years ago, which was a decent sized label at one point-- he's shaped for a long time and has made a lot of boards

I went to HS with a kid that was kinda sponsored by Novak for longboarding. I never really liked the way his boards looked and I always smoked him when we had heats together.

Speaking of smoking, that guy ended up ODing. Sad.

 

[trifish]

Switched to thrusters on my last 5 sessions or so after being on twins for a while now. They still work and do their job great, no doubt, but man I don't know.... they just feel so vanilla now.