you could say I had a nice fin throw, or you could say I hit a large chop/mutant and got chucked.
I’ll let you decide.
I’ll let you decide.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
after not surfing yesterday I was bummed to show up to onshore conditions. luckily I had some motivation from a local that goes out in almost anything. we paddled out and I got two fun ones right away and it slowly glassed off throughout the session. mellow crowd, warm water, and fun waves. 6'1" already needs it's first re-waxing. stocked
It has been hit and miss this week, either with the waves or the waves with the correct board. The stars aligned yesterday afternoon. Went to my favorite break, no one was there, and the south swell created nice shoulder-to-head high waves from the reef break to the shore. It was so good - it was a non-stop merry-go-round. I knew to keep going even when fatigued kicked in and started fumbling a few waves, no one was there so who cares. I surfed until the sun was setting - 3.5 hrs. I wish I had a different board for the conditions, but the 5' 4" Will's Fish worked well. I installed the Album Fascination fins on it. I like these fins boards, looser feel to get the board moving a little easier with still good positive feedback/hold. I preferred the Machados before this, but they have lots of drive and hold.
As expected, this morning was good, but compared to yesterday it was a letdown. I surfed the 5' 6" Disorder, which was fun and the board I wish I had yesterday - ohh well!
As expected, this morning was good, but compared to yesterday it was a letdown. I surfed the 5' 6" Disorder, which was fun and the board I wish I had yesterday - ohh well!
Today was not as good as yesterday but there weren’t many people out at all because of a little wind shop I did miss a lot of ways that I paddle for but sitting out there in my special spot I definitely picked up a bunch of a good set waves more long lifts with lots of face pretty good time overall I stayed out till I got extra chore because why leave and there’s nobody out there there was actually nobody following me today if you can imagine that normally I have so many followers I could be considered an influencer
These typos have been brought to you by voice to text
These typos have been brought to you by voice to text
thought 000 was hittin the sauce a little early before reading the disclaimer
I don't even know where to begin. Clean day, lined-up although occasionally closing out lefts and looking really fun, shoulder high to a few feet OH on sets. Rode my 6'6" Senate when I first paddled out around 6:45 but absolute wrong choice as it is not a board that gets to paddling speed quickly. Ebb tide had waves rolling, rolling, rolling, then jacking hard and dumping equally hard. Super murky water (duckdiving was pitch black) and a lot of sea lions splashing around and feeding; kind of nice to have people out, although it was crowded.
Surfed like absolute dogshit all day and was dealt horrible skunkings. 2nd wave, had a late drop, little snap in the pocket and then raced the line until it closed out, cannonballed out the back, leisurely paddle back to the peak I was at. And then got annihilated by a set 10 feet from the outside, pushed 150 yards in at least, duckdove about 70 waves, and just had to slowly muscle my way back out. Kind of took the pi$$ out of me a bit. I was not the only one having trouble. Was super hard to get into waves and on way too many, late backhand drop, slotted into barrel, and then wave kept lurching or something(?) because next thing I knew I was on my ass in the water watching a barrel reel away from me. So very not like me but it was happening to everyone.
Around 9:30, got a lined up left that was in low pigdog whole way down the line slotted in pocket before getting crunched by end section. Decided enough was enough and swapped it for my 6'7". Too bad I didn't grab that from the beginning, before I was fatigued. Got a couple OK ones, lined up a nice in-betweener that unfortunately was the first wave of a long set. Crushed to the inside, current was a river and sent me and the guy who got wave after me about 400 yards to the north and had to do the long paddle back out and around, solid mutual cussfest at the absolute cruelty of Mother Ocean. I did that loop at least 4 times, close to a mile paddling just from that alone. Ruthless currents.
Couple more OK ones after that, a couple failed drops, and was more than ready to go in when a beautiful left came right to me. Stroked into it, slotted off the takeoff, and it happened again, board stopped, and I kept going. That had me muttering to myself for a bit; so bitter. After another 20 minute skunking, a nice in-betweener left came in, fast and lined up whole way, raced it, did a serviceable cutback before it closed out and then bellied it in for about 200+ yards.
5 hour session overall, most of which was spent paddling. Heading to SoCal in late July and kinda looking forward to warm water and a fuckload less paddling.
Surfed like absolute dogshit all day and was dealt horrible skunkings. 2nd wave, had a late drop, little snap in the pocket and then raced the line until it closed out, cannonballed out the back, leisurely paddle back to the peak I was at. And then got annihilated by a set 10 feet from the outside, pushed 150 yards in at least, duckdove about 70 waves, and just had to slowly muscle my way back out. Kind of took the pi$$ out of me a bit. I was not the only one having trouble. Was super hard to get into waves and on way too many, late backhand drop, slotted into barrel, and then wave kept lurching or something(?) because next thing I knew I was on my ass in the water watching a barrel reel away from me. So very not like me but it was happening to everyone.
Around 9:30, got a lined up left that was in low pigdog whole way down the line slotted in pocket before getting crunched by end section. Decided enough was enough and swapped it for my 6'7". Too bad I didn't grab that from the beginning, before I was fatigued. Got a couple OK ones, lined up a nice in-betweener that unfortunately was the first wave of a long set. Crushed to the inside, current was a river and sent me and the guy who got wave after me about 400 yards to the north and had to do the long paddle back out and around, solid mutual cussfest at the absolute cruelty of Mother Ocean. I did that loop at least 4 times, close to a mile paddling just from that alone. Ruthless currents.
Couple more OK ones after that, a couple failed drops, and was more than ready to go in when a beautiful left came right to me. Stroked into it, slotted off the takeoff, and it happened again, board stopped, and I kept going. That had me muttering to myself for a bit; so bitter. After another 20 minute skunking, a nice in-betweener left came in, fast and lined up whole way, raced it, did a serviceable cutback before it closed out and then bellied it in for about 200+ yards.
5 hour session overall, most of which was spent paddling. Heading to SoCal in late July and kinda looking forward to warm water and a fuckload less paddling.
Yesterday was fuckign insane, best drainpipes in years
grateful
grateful
Woke up fairly hungover, decided to sleep it off. Did a few things around the house and headed down after lunch. Other waves looked possibly better but I picked the lowest effort one. Seaweed turned out to be a not insignificant problem but I still got a bunch of fun ones. I was kind of surfing like crap but just decent enough to be fun. Only 2-4 people out the whole time. It seemed like it was probably quite good this morning.
holy sh!t I actually surfed. (yesterday, friday)
'
I've paddled around for 20 minutes every few weeks but I felt like I basically stopped surfing this spring. Had all day to drive from the bay to ventura county. shoulda gone to santa cruz honestly, but stopped at another quirky little reef. Warbly and short, but nice and bowly. Haven't lived near there for years now and it's a fickle wave anyway so I wasn't surprised that I didn't recognize anyone. Was very determined to come across as low key and competent but as soon as I get out I sit in the wrong place and swing and miss on two lmao. Eventually found the groove and there were as many waves per set as there were people out so I didn't have to try to sit deep or anything. Very pleasant vibe out there. Got back into the rhythm of doing turns surprisingly quickly, nothing groundbreaking but god it felt good to feel like I can surf again.
'
I've paddled around for 20 minutes every few weeks but I felt like I basically stopped surfing this spring. Had all day to drive from the bay to ventura county. shoulda gone to santa cruz honestly, but stopped at another quirky little reef. Warbly and short, but nice and bowly. Haven't lived near there for years now and it's a fickle wave anyway so I wasn't surprised that I didn't recognize anyone. Was very determined to come across as low key and competent but as soon as I get out I sit in the wrong place and swing and miss on two lmao. Eventually found the groove and there were as many waves per set as there were people out so I didn't have to try to sit deep or anything. Very pleasant vibe out there. Got back into the rhythm of doing turns surprisingly quickly, nothing groundbreaking but god it felt good to feel like I can surf again.
Santa Cruz gets insanely good waves year round. It's ridiculous.
today was smaller, but still plenty of swell, glassy wth nobody out. eventually some dude paddled out 200 yards from me, but i was alone with the dolphins and seal. wasnt breakin way out like the previous days, but i had a boil workin for me pretty well, plenty of good waves on the tomo, even some good rights, waters warm too. got off enough good turns. wondering what tomorrow holds.
fun rip bowl with just my buddy and I. quite a good surprise seeing as it didn't look good from the beach. fuse felt great but almost undergunned due to the good ones doubling up nicely.
Santa Cruz looked great for the last week. I just can't get away for that long.
Finally got to surf out front with a break in the NW wind.
Got totally skunked by 4 footers at the North end of the beach. Paddled out and got stuck on the sandbar until I did the walk of shame. Paddles back out and just kept paddling around. Hard to see in the fog, then a puff of wind cleared it. I kept trying to trek South enough to find a left but never quite got in position. Lined one up and Wilbur paddles toward the shoulder in front of me.
Ran into a buddy. Took 2 waves and went in. Success.
Finally got to surf out front with a break in the NW wind.
Got totally skunked by 4 footers at the North end of the beach. Paddled out and got stuck on the sandbar until I did the walk of shame. Paddles back out and just kept paddling around. Hard to see in the fog, then a puff of wind cleared it. I kept trying to trek South enough to find a left but never quite got in position. Lined one up and Wilbur paddles toward the shoulder in front of me.
Ran into a buddy. Took 2 waves and went in. Success.
Second shift this morning. My usual had some event and 300 cars in line to get through the gate(ridiculous) headed to North of the Pier. Super fun combo swell with light texture with worst crowd I've been in for a long time. Snagged a few good set FS&BS. New fin set in the bat tail twinzer were perfect for the conditions. They seem to marry well with the bottom contours and rocker. Perfect balance of drive and release. Stoked !! Back to being vampire
Small waves today, but clean with a consistent stomach-chest high swell at reef break.
I am starting to unlock the potential of the narrower 5' 6" Disorder. The narrowness of the board lets me go rail to rail easily and my speed generation and turns are coming together nicely with this board. Today was a blast, as I was getting lots of fluid turns going on almost every wave - then the longboarders showed up, but I had my 2hr fill!
I am starting to unlock the potential of the narrower 5' 6" Disorder. The narrowness of the board lets me go rail to rail easily and my speed generation and turns are coming together nicely with this board. Today was a blast, as I was getting lots of fluid turns going on almost every wave - then the longboarders showed up, but I had my 2hr fill!
Folllowed oeste's lead and ran a twin trailer set up in the Album dank farts cabron:
This little nugget is so spicy now I love it. Overall waves were pretty frustrating. The rip was gnarly so I didn't get the good ones I got yesterday. Walked down the beach where the waves were more straight and got a few fun ones. Board is so light and whippy. Pretty damn stocked on it.
My new quiver is insane.
This little nugget is so spicy now I love it. Overall waves were pretty frustrating. The rip was gnarly so I didn't get the good ones I got yesterday. Walked down the beach where the waves were more straight and got a few fun ones. Board is so light and whippy. Pretty damn stocked on it.
My new quiver is insane.