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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
fun soft tapering walls in the waist the chest high range. couple bigger but inconsistent. waves were super long and allowed multiple turns per wave. so many bs roundies to high foam rebound. got a clean chest high runner right where i laid into 2 of the best fs carves in forever. one wave i connected the dots with 2 carves and 2 hits for 75 yards. fkn stocked duuu's.
Psychological and physical abuse at 4-6 foot Beach. Wacky sesh that included a massive rip, 20 minute glass-off followed by stiff NW winds, 15 minute sneaker set that cock-blocked me and pushed me 5 blocks south to a huge trench, thence to an outside bar dishing 8 foot burgers.
softies on the king tide. dank farts album felt pretty good
Friend from Peru was In town, hadn’t seem him in 20 years.
expectations were low, waves were so fun!
shallow low low tide rock reef fun. Crowd seemed thick but 12 of them were groms who would yield on the bigger waves.
‘I’m spent! Love it when waves are a million times better than you expect.
only bummer his wife was pissed cause we were out for way longer than we said we would be
expectations were low, waves were so fun!
shallow low low tide rock reef fun. Crowd seemed thick but 12 of them were groms who would yield on the bigger waves.
‘I’m spent! Love it when waves are a million times better than you expect.
only bummer his wife was pissed cause we were out for way longer than we said we would be
And how’s this mask he brought me from Peru! 
frothy 4 pack of ripper groms is how today went. heard yesterday was fun and empty will I was working in LA.
Win some you lose some I guess
Win some you lose some I guess
Sounds like you should try a different leash string template on that boar
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Waited too long for the big tide to drop midday and the wind came up. There were still some fun WH-CH racy groomers at an in-between reef with just another dude out. Wind was side shore at first and made for some playful sections. Mostly high lines, speed runs, floaters, and a closing hack on the R. Smoothie quad. Was pretty fun and got ton of waves. Then the last 15 min the wind turned onshore and blew it out. Could see windsarfers around the point which is never a good sign.
only bummer is I got spun around trying to rocknroll float a frothy section and lost it on the tail drop. my forearm smashed the front left rail. Ugh.
only bummer is I got spun around trying to rocknroll float a frothy section and lost it on the tail drop. my forearm smashed the front left rail. Ugh.
i too waited too long. pretty much stayed offshore until right when I paddled out and conditions quickly became dogshit. Not the best conditions to try out a new board, but such is life, got one good turn in and left in a decent enough mood
small but fun ones on the spark plug with TA's. Board shreds
another subpar but uncrowded beach break on the bing cypress. happy camper. air was freezing this AM, water felt warm by comparison
Big tide but I had to get out before the wind today. So I made my semi-annual beachbreak appearance, northside of the pier. Punchy WH-CH wedges. Mostly closeouts but some walls to race. Buncha floaters again. I had thought it was gonna be grovely so dusted off the el tomo quad fish (xtr SL-C). Boar is flat wide fast and skatey. Didn’t have quad fins so had to improvise.
Fo sho. What’d he call em? Skate wheels?
I was pretty proud of myself for being resourceful. T1 & Rasta lil trailers even have the same template.
Been small where Im at lately but we had a great run through that last swell. Got to ride my 6-6 sharpeye a few more times and felt like i was surfing pretty well. The crowd factor was minimal on the bigger days and I surfed my ass off. Hard to get excited to grovel once the size dropped off and it got crowded again but I did have a few fun goes on my Plasmic and then the Hydra. Hydra is a funny one. Im able to ride some pretty micro little runners on it when everyone else is on a log but I need to be on my game and I still was having some wtf moments so I went back to thruster which feels slower but more predictable.
I left my longboard in san juanico so I am tooling around Baja without a log like an idiot. I did ride my boogie at this small novelty wave and had a blast.
I left my longboard in san juanico so I am tooling around Baja without a log like an idiot. I did ride my boogie at this small novelty wave and had a blast.
First session on the Sakal Sabre. Waist to shoulder high beach break waves. Fun but felt like to much board for the wave size/type. My plasmic would’ve been more fun. I think the Sabre is gonna work great when it’s head high plus. Especially on a reef/point break with more open face.
I'm sure that board will go good. looks like a fun one.
my buddy shapes boards. we mess w/ each other a lot. "this board is kind of sucking, but I bet it would go great at a head high point break!"
(every board goes well at a head high point break)