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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

SD_Dan

SD_Dan

OTF status
Jan 23, 2019
271
724
93
High tide dawn patrol at SD punchy beach break. Probably the wrong board for the wave size but still trying to figure out my Plasmic and don’t want to switch it up. Ended up working really well. I continue to be impressed by the hold going backhand. Very fun and very fast. When I ordered the board I was wondering how they were gonna fit 34+ liters of foam into a 5’6 but I get it now. The rails are thick. I for sure could’ve ordered it one size smaller but I’m not hating the extra foam. Makes wave catching a breeze.
 
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B

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,939
3,075
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
surfed every day this week except Wednesday doing dad duty stuff, back down on the kenson 5 8 pleasure pig for most of the sessions. one really great one during my mid day break one mid-morning i got wave after wave at a little corner of reef that has had the inside filled with sand and makes it like a really fun skate park and I was feeling really good on this board that is 10 years old and still bullet proof if you stand on the back on the fins it just goes fast and can turn well too, I have 2 boards from kenson from this vintage and whoever was doing the glassing on those things was on point.
 
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sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,525
3,370
113
Monday: A spot my friend calls a "B-Grade Longboard Spot." Used the 5'6" GMM2, my Bar-o'-Soap. Sooooo fun.

Tuesday: Same spot mid morning with the wifey. Inconsistent but fun sets in the shoulder high to HH range. A couple of plus sets. Bar-o'-soap session. INSANELY fun day. Lots of beautiful sunshine, dolphins in the line-up, and most of the waves were essentially given to me.

Wednesday: Wind came up so I skipped it and got a 2022 Tundra. #flex

Today, Thursday: Surfed the Queen at dead low tide for the push. Bar-o'-Soap. Two hours, completely frustrating. Got about 10 waves total, so a LOT of sitting. Much more than I'm used to. Had to jockey for set waves that were in sets of two every ten minutes, both of which the entire crowd wanted. Ugh. Still got a few connectors to the middle of rivermouth, but nothing going all the way. It was like one of those agony/ecstasy sessions where at first things were good... until they weren't good. Then it was f-r-u-s-t-r-a-t-I-n-g as all hell. Still, I feel like a complete dick complaining about surfing for two hours in the middle of a beautiful, sunny day.

Regardless: Still loving this ocean life.
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,656
113
SF x Encinitas
Juicy January continues. Wednesday, Beach was cranking 2-3x overhead and hard offshore. Crowded with a lot of really good surfers getting shacked. I sent it on the first wave to come my way. Felt a bit too deep for the right, but I put my head down and went hard. In early at a 45 degree angle, off the bottom and up into the hook as it pitched over me. Long vision. Driving, driving, driving only to be clamped at the end. Nevertheless, my deepest, longest barrel out there.

Got pounded on that bar trying to get back out. Once back, I sat for a while drifting south toward a more crowded bar dealing mostly lefts. Caught two lefts on that bar. Both were hairy drops, as the wind got under the wide nose of the 8'6 Hess and held me in the lip for a second before I airdropped diagonally down the face. Made both but there wasn't much ride after. The board has so much control and stability, I felt fairly confident in some sketchy places. Think I'll keep my 8'3 Rusty for those windy, hollow days. That board is such a blade, it would have knifed into those lefts easily.
 
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S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,377
2,184
113
Ponto
If you can't get large waves, at least have clean waves. Swell is winding down, still got a few at minus tide, nothing special. Shoulder high, inconsistent, not as racey nor as steep as previous days.

I mentioned menacing with Bassy, I have another partner in crime for crossovers, sometimes it's all 3 of us on a wave. As usual, he's in front at takeoff. Instead of hanging at the bottom, waiting for cutback initiation, I went high and tried to pass from above. I knew this would mess with his head, when he looked back, and I would already be past him. Failure on my part, I got stuck in his wake and bobbled over the top. LOL, that was the highlight of my session.
 
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Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,941
7,860
113
San Francisco, CA
bluengreen said:
Got pounded on that bar trying to get back out. Once back, I sat for a while drifting south toward a more crowded bar dealing mostly lefts. Caught two lefts on that bar. Both were hairy drops, as the wind got under the wide nose of the 8'6 Hess and held me in the lip for a second before I airdropped diagonally down the face. Made both but there wasn't much ride after. The board has so much control and stability, I felt fairly confident in some sketchy places. Think I'll keep my 8'3 Rusty for those windy, hollow days. That board is such a blade, it would have knifed into those lefts easily.
Click to expand...
Which shape is the 8'6"?
 
MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,595
6,149
113
SD
Surfed my usual beach for the first time in at least a month, I've been enjoying lots of reef sessions but it was nice to surf kind of shitty beach break again. The variety is nice. The wind was a bit too side shore and was messing things up, but I still got a few funish ones. Nothing special, pulled into a few 2' close outs and called it a day.
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
MathDebater said:
Surfed my usual beach for the first time in at least a month, I've been enjoying lots of reef sessions but it was nice to surf kind of shitty beach break again. The variety is nice. The wind was a bit too side shore and was messing things up, but I still got a few funish ones. Nothing special, pulled into a few 2' close outs and called it a day.
Click to expand...
the last few fun sessions I've had have been shitty beach break. crowd is more spread out and there aren't 50 guys on mid lengths hogging the peak, like it is at every reefbreak these days
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,498
113
San Diego, CA
MathDebater said:
Surfed my usual beach for the first time in at least a month, I've been enjoying lots of reef sessions but it was nice to surf kind of shitty beach break again. The variety is nice. The wind was a bit too side shore and was messing things up, but I still got a few funish ones. Nothing special, pulled into a few 2' close outs and called it a day.
Click to expand...
What’s your BBDD these days?
 
oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,498
113
San Diego, CA
tedshred5 said:
crowd is more spread out and there aren't 50 guys on mid lengths hogging the peak, like it is at every reefbreak these days
Click to expand...
It’s rough at the reefs (that aren’t OH sketchy slabs). Had my kids at the park overlooking a popular reef and just watching the fun-sized swell yesterday. The carnage was depressing. So many drop-ins, no respect, 85% of the MLs just go straight or down the line and bog even the most basic turn.
 
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sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,525
3,370
113
oeste858 said:
It’s rough at the reefs (that aren’t OH sketchy slabs). Had my kids at the park overlooking a popular reef and just watching the fun-sized swell yesterday. The carnage was depressing. So many drop-ins, no respect, 85% of the MLs just go straight or down the line and bog even the most basic turn.
Click to expand...
100%

I was out at the Queen the other day and 5 mid lengths were sitting on the take-off. Okay. Then a wave comes and 2 of them f-ing belly ride the take offs EVERY TIME & then stand down the line. I was so F-ING frustrated by these guys.
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
oeste858 said:
It’s rough at the reefs (that aren’t OH sketchy slabs). Had my kids at the park overlooking a popular reef and just watching the fun-sized swell yesterday. The carnage was depressing. So many drop-ins, no respect, 85% of the MLs just go straight or down the line and bog even the most basic turn.
Click to expand...
Yup. That’s one of my local spot checks too. And lately people showing up in groups of 4-5.:foreheadslap:
 
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