First few days in the desert were small but the symphony mini sims made for some fun sessions Today a swell arrived but it was kind of junky despite the nearly all day glass. Still fun waves just not connecting from the top of the point mostly. Rode the 6-4 bullet twin in the morning and the twinsman in the afternoon. Both felt good but Id probably give the nod to the Bullet for the easy glide. Crowd was semi annoying with basically no one else riding a board under 8 ft but I got plenty of waves. Forecast looks insane but Im not sure where Im going to head to for the bigger swells yet. Apparently I sometimes get 4g out in the middle of nowhere now which sucks but I figured I should make use of it.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Strangest injury, aye. First you feel almost nothing, then some tightness in the neck/chest, and then all of a sudden it's hard to move or breathe!
Trying not to froth too much with that swell coming, but it does look good.
Did you guys actually leave town? Swell didn’t really line up for me. Maybe it requires a blood sacrifice at this point.
Snuck in a few this a.m. before the tide got to full in SLA. A few nice lined up walls on the Flare but pretty bumpy and lumpy. Couple head high plus sets but the in betweener double ups were the ticket. Saved some in the tank for a possible 2nd session once this monster tide drops a bit. Nice morning., clear, crisp, and not to crowded!
Snuck in a Christmas Eve AM session on the new Pyzalien 2. Really promising feel in the precursors of winter juice, something about the nose rocker provides a smooth entry. Ran Dark Arts thruster set and a Pyzel leash string
surfs finally good. wife wants to do "something" i say we can walk on the beach. she says we bring the dogs. i say no dogs allowed, but i'll bring something else on a leash instead. (fair compromise)
"like what?!?!?!"
"my surfboard"
"like what?!?!?!"
"my surfboard"
Christmas Day dawnie. Soloed the offshore sandbar, and it was small (HH takeoffs, chest high inside) but perfect. Glorious day here, warm and sunny.
Tough bur rewarding conditions. Swell and wind were both higher then forecasted but it wasn’t quite blown out, I just had to be picky. I rode my banjo with BMT’s for the second time and I’m really liking it. There were some head high sets now and then. I managed to get two. One really lined up for me, easy chip in, snap stall to head dip, gut back, lil check snap, then I tried to bury the rail and lost it at the end of the turn. First good wave in forever!
Quick Christmas session with just regulars in the best waves I’ve had in ages
bit too closed out this morning but a few god ones n a tube
wish i could surf the reef i surfed alone every high tide morning for decades, but its trendy now. 32 guys out at 9am. the place can handle 4 friends max.
wish i could surf the reef i surfed alone every high tide morning for decades, but its trendy now. 32 guys out at 9am. the place can handle 4 friends max.
Friday: some reasonably fun high tide WNW swell mid City beach, crowded to $#!t
Saturday: early morning high tide RJ's kind of novelty waves very few out, made a few turns
Sunday: watched the cams fire all day
Monday: rising tide mostly West swell with a bit of Southerly influence, sheet glass w/ light offshore
traded waves with 20w for 2.5 hours. Mostly to ourselves super fun in spite of the waits
Saturday: early morning high tide RJ's kind of novelty waves very few out, made a few turns
Sunday: watched the cams fire all day
Monday: rising tide mostly West swell with a bit of Southerly influence, sheet glass w/ light offshore
traded waves with 20w for 2.5 hours. Mostly to ourselves super fun in spite of the waits
Big, thick, and mean with a ton of water moving. Solid OH to DOH sets, moderate offshore winds, and relentless. Looked at it for a while to gauge if any way out the back. Peak out front looked really good but with a massive rip running through it - looks good but very difficult to get into any of those waves with the amount of water running up the face.
Found what looked like a window out the back and to a peak to the south. Made it out relatively unscathed but rip kept dragging me into the northern peak I didn't want to be at so just had to put my head down and paddle south and in a little to get to a hollow left setup that was a little more manageable with a lot of solid OH inbetweeners coming in. Figured the incoming tide would also help clean it up. And it did.
Trouble was, there were big sets that swept through. And they were good and I paddled for more than a few of them but no way in hell could I come even close to getting into them; so much water moving up the face as they jacked out of the depths and threw. But even if I didn't want any part of them, no way did I want to take any of them on the head so was constant inside/out paddling. Actually survived relatively unscathed, was able to get under all but a couple.
Between all them dodgem cars, though, I got a few solid waves, last of which I carved a big hack off the top after squaring off the bottom with a lot of speed and then I got annihilated when I bled just a wee bit too much speed on that hack. Oops. But I was happy nonetheless. Happy to fucking survive.
Found what looked like a window out the back and to a peak to the south. Made it out relatively unscathed but rip kept dragging me into the northern peak I didn't want to be at so just had to put my head down and paddle south and in a little to get to a hollow left setup that was a little more manageable with a lot of solid OH inbetweeners coming in. Figured the incoming tide would also help clean it up. And it did.
Trouble was, there were big sets that swept through. And they were good and I paddled for more than a few of them but no way in hell could I come even close to getting into them; so much water moving up the face as they jacked out of the depths and threw. But even if I didn't want any part of them, no way did I want to take any of them on the head so was constant inside/out paddling. Actually survived relatively unscathed, was able to get under all but a couple.
Between all them dodgem cars, though, I got a few solid waves, last of which I carved a big hack off the top after squaring off the bottom with a lot of speed and then I got annihilated when I bled just a wee bit too much speed on that hack. Oops. But I was happy nonetheless. Happy to fucking survive.
First surf back after idk how long. Two weeks? 6-8' Sunset looked fun, not to crazy crowded. Gnarliest Haleiwa style current in the lineup just dragging everyone over to the point. Constant paddling to try to stay out of the impact zone. Eventually got caught by a monster three wave set. Got ragdolled half way to the beach and called it a day.
First zero wave session in a looong time.Never seen that crazy of a current out there.
First zero wave session in a looong time.Never seen that crazy of a current out there.
If it's any consolation, my session ended after getting caught inside and then shoved inwards enough, couldn't get back over the top of the sandbar. Not the most glory when it comes to ending a session but that's what I get for trying to duckdive something I really shouldn't have.
Where at?If it's any consolation, my session ended after getting caught inside and then shoved inwards enough, couldn't get back over the top of the sandbar. Not the most glory when it comes to ending a session but that's what I get for trying to duckdive something I really shouldn't have.
xmas came a day early, and Appears to be hanging for a few more days.
Got a rare double session in today. First one was uncrowded but not as good as yesterday at the same spot. There were inside barrels but you had to risk it for the biscuit. I found the reef more than once. Second session was at a time and tide that was guaranteed to be crowded but wow. There was several extended scream matches, splash offs, chases, slurs, etc. gotta love the start to winter. All the old dudes rule crew on longboards were the ones fight and burning each other ruthlessly which basically left no sets for anyone else. Got a few fun tweeners and called it a day.
Rincon was so fun today. got a couple nugs, arms are fried!