Dawn patrolled one of the SD reef breaks. Tide was a bit too high, but got one right that let me feel the front side potential of the Plasmic.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Steve Yamamoto was lamenting this morning about the crowds and lack of regulation. He said he missed the days when you and few other ruffians would cause menace and scare kooks. He said to say hi if I run into you in N. County. So Yamo says
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Couldn’t break outta Shawshank til late morning. SW winds already up, so mostly practiced duckdiving CH-OH sloppy wedges and closeouts at reef 2. Was hoping for better but at least there was only 3 others out, last 30 min was just 2 of us. Did get a ton of corners and my last wave actually had a decent curl so did a nice FS hack to pocket ride. 6’1 Twinsman RP is so intuitive for me. The flat deck and the way the foam is distributed makes it feel so stable and secure in decent swell. Wish i got better waves to ride it more often.
Surfed a not very north LA point this afternoon. I think the zenith of the pandemic kook has been achieved. It's just chaos out there with the entry of the pandemic kook into the lineup. One idiot paddles next to me, drops in on me and yards sales it. Then says "dude, I'm so sorry." I don't usually yell at people, but I guess today I was angry. Tore into into the idiot.
Aside from that, some fun ones on the GG Hovercraft. Twinzer set up has a section beating gas pedal. Digging this board.
Get out of the water and there is a woman in scrubs setting up a table out the back of her Audi SUV in the parking lot. Looked like she was running some bogus testing site out of the back of her car.
I guess idiots were out in full force today. While I am changing someon decides it would be wise to make a 10 point U-turn in the middle of PCH causing a bunch of cars to almost broadside this clown who parks in front of me. She could have went about another 100 feet and turned around in a parking lot. I pulled a Constanza, walked up and screamed at this idiot for almost causing a massive pile up. One of those days.
Aside from that, some fun ones on the GG Hovercraft. Twinzer set up has a section beating gas pedal. Digging this board.
Get out of the water and there is a woman in scrubs setting up a table out the back of her Audi SUV in the parking lot. Looked like she was running some bogus testing site out of the back of her car.
I guess idiots were out in full force today. While I am changing someon decides it would be wise to make a 10 point U-turn in the middle of PCH causing a bunch of cars to almost broadside this clown who parks in front of me. She could have went about another 100 feet and turned around in a parking lot. I pulled a Constanza, walked up and screamed at this idiot for almost causing a massive pile up. One of those days.
Made me spit out my breakfast when I read this, lol. Causing menace? If you call being comfortable in the surf when others are freaking out, yep.Steve Yamamoto was lamenting this morning about the crowds and lack of regulation. He said he missed the days when you and few other ruffians would cause menace and scare kooks. He said to say hi if I run into you in N. County. So Yamo says
Yesterdays session was bigger, but still, lully. Story of the winter. Pulled up, just in time to see some older dude start paddling out on one of them dar new twinnies. Amused, I decided to pay attention, see what this dude was up to. Set comes in, dude gets one right away, impressive. Pretty much ripped it up, and threw in a few of Racer's "let it go" motions. Hmm, maybe there is something to the twinnies.
Next set, some sort of collision on takeoff, humorous. Me and guy in car next to me are cracking up. Second wave of set, some guy gets the full pitch and launch treatment on takeoff. Ahh, better suit up. The collision guys came in, one guy had a nice 6 inch axe wound in the rail. I knew both of them, lol.
Paddle out, wait, notice the current has messed with everyone's positioning, paddle to the boil. Yeehaw, instant reward, wave of the day. Super knife drop (should've ate it, most would have) morphing into hard bottom and top turns, couple of sections with stand tall style stance, stocker. LOL, the peeps that were caught inside were asking if I made it. I laughed, my response was "I'm not sure why I had to make the drop so dramatic, could've used two more strokes." Back at the peak, I see Mr. Twinnie, upon a better view, I recognized him as my partner in terror, Bassy.
Later on, same current crap. I remark to the rando next to me, "If we are sitting inside of those guys over there (pointing to next peak to the North), it's bad". He giggled a bit, I followed it up with, "And I'm gonna take care of that, right now". Paddle out the boil, instant reward. Stocker, again. I love it when a plan comes together. Argh, I fell on the inside on this one, got too high on the midface stall and did the slow motion roll over and churn. Came up just in time to see Bassy on the next one getting barreled in the same section I blew. I hooted real loud and kinda spooked him. One usually doesn't get hooted way on the inside.
Me and Bassy are warmed up now. Time to menace. We both go on a set, me getting the rare start in front. Some guy is inside, perfect view as we start doing go behinds around him like he's a parking cone. Our menace was so strong, I apologized on the way back out, "It's nothing personal, we do that chit all the time". The "Scott and Scott" routine always helps in crowd control. We may have to break out the fake fight routine again.
Paddled out blind in the fog to two guys getting good ones. waited no more than 30 seconds and one fell in my lap. onje of the dudes said yeah sick one, go! and I got 5-6 turns. He was right!
Got tougher as tide drained and ripped it up combined with the crowd but still got some fun ones in the mix. mitesven stap was too big for the waves but it was nice being able to get into the tough ones and I still got some nice turns on it.
Got tougher as tide drained and ripped it up combined with the crowd but still got some fun ones in the mix. mitesven stap was too big for the waves but it was nice being able to get into the tough ones and I still got some nice turns on it.
You ever have a morning where things are just not going your way? To the point its ridiculous? That was me today and it flowed right into my session. Just wasn't happening, completely off and I was ready to just call it when a larger set came out back from nowhere and started swinging my way. And maybe it was the heavy frustration building at that point but holy crap something triggered the second I knew it was mine and I paddled with everything to get out to it....... Major late takeoff with the wave sling shotting me in with way too much speed, so I pointed the board aggressively down the line to hang on during the drop. Wasn't going to let this one go. Swung down to a big bottom turn with so much speed and my feet digging in. Shot up the face vertically like a rocket and let out possibly one of the hardest snaps I might have ever done. Every bit of juice and everything that went wrong this morning channeled into it. Damn, felt so good. Made the whole session worth wild and turned the day around.
Ha!!
More like intimidating and ridiculing any and all that should not be out on certain days. You could pull it off. Bassy, not so much....
The regular has been pretty good the last couple of days. Big crowd at first light this AM. Had to straighten out on what would have been a rifle because some guy felt it would be better to paddle into my line vs take one on the head. Smaller than yesterday but still super fun.
Lol sounds like my session except for the getting a good wave part. Went to reef A, it looked weak with the higher tide, went to B, it looked super fun and wasn't crowded. Despite not being crowded there were four dudes on swami's guns taking everything that rolled through, I was going nuts. They'd paddle straight around me and swoop every decent wave that came through, I only got 2 un-partied waves in 2 hours but at that point a ton of people were paddling out and I had a meeting to get to so I went in. Surf still looked decent after my meeting so I did a quick Oeste redemption session. Paddled out at reef a which was starting to get blown out and got right into a super fun one, a couple turn sections and a lip hit before I botched the cutback at the end. Still felt great after earlier. I got a few less memorable but highly decent waves, mostly speed runs after that and called in 30 minutes.
ha! Head to a foot or two overhead but Had some nice chest high waves too
What's funny is if this was the year 2000 and I told you I rode a 6'4" in chest high surf you'd say... "and"?
Kento is like when in the fark did a 6'4 become a stepup?
I personally love it that my step-up (assuming we agree step ups are for solid OH - DOH) is all of one inch longer than my normal drivers with same or actually smaller dimensions.
Actually, come to think of it, the step-up is really the daily driver these days.
It's on borrowed time though which is why I am psyched that another one, 6'8" this time, will be ready in the not-too-distant future.
Bros... best session of 2022 for me. Mid-morning low tide. Pulled up to the main reef to chest-OH, a-frame peelers, lefts and rights. Clean no wind, but slow-quick waves, depending on the section. Everyone was pulling into the hollow sections in the OH sets (take offs and inside) but they were closing in 20 yd lips, and I don't think I saw anyone come out of a real one. The medium ones (CH-HH) reeled off cleaner than the bigger sets. About 25-30 crowd, but most knew what they were doing and lots of waves to go around so good vibes.
Paddled straight out into a fun HH right (5 big carves) that lined up all the way in. Couldn't believe how they were just peeling like a poor man's Rincon and begging to be carved up. 4 min later, the 3rd wave of set snuck through the pack, and I connor-coffined another long right all the way in. LOL. This went on every time I paddled back out, like a conveyor belt, and I just felt like I was in sync the entire sesh. 6'1 TwinsmanRP could do no wrong. Ended last wave with a quick coverup on the inside reef where I was bent over at the waist to try to contort under the lip. Musta looked hideous but the head dip felt good! Was bummed I had to go in to pick up kids from nursery school (and then drag them to a jobsite for an hour). But man, that was fun. Stocked!
Paddled straight out into a fun HH right (5 big carves) that lined up all the way in. Couldn't believe how they were just peeling like a poor man's Rincon and begging to be carved up. 4 min later, the 3rd wave of set snuck through the pack, and I connor-coffined another long right all the way in. LOL. This went on every time I paddled back out, like a conveyor belt, and I just felt like I was in sync the entire sesh. 6'1 TwinsmanRP could do no wrong. Ended last wave with a quick coverup on the inside reef where I was bent over at the waist to try to contort under the lip. Musta looked hideous but the head dip felt good! Was bummed I had to go in to pick up kids from nursery school (and then drag them to a jobsite for an hour). But man, that was fun. Stocked!
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what a run of waves we've had. 2 weeks nonstop. im toast after this morning and most of my boards in rotation are heading to get patched up tomorow. officially surfed out.
Nice afternoon at the local reefs. Feeling out the new ci twin pin (3rd session) and using it as a stap. Got some nice rights and a super long left - textured but with incoming tide was quite fun - feeling like MikeJanuary at times . Last wave was a bomb left a few ft oh that somehow made the blind drop - would of been a disaster otherwise. Glad to leave stock and unscathed. Still pumped at the moment
surfed 3 times today. Rode a 5'4 twin each time. Two morning sessions and a sundown session... haven't done that in a while. Each session had its highlights with some turns I was super happy with (even after watching the surfline replay). After being on a singlefin 70% of the time through the doldrums of the past couple months, it felt good to really lay into a few on the twin. Think I'm going to get a stretched out version maybe to 5'8 or 5'9 for the larger days like last week or whenever that was.
Was riding the 5'4 on the bigger days throughout the last swell, and it worked, but it would have been nice to have a bit more length just for doing battle with the crowd, plus the added rail line would have helped on rail on some of the bigger ones.
Highlight was taking off behind my dad (he's 70) on a bomb and surfing behind him the whole way. He probably would have kicked out after seeing me behind him but I told him to keep going and parked it right behind him the entire way in
Was riding the 5'4 on the bigger days throughout the last swell, and it worked, but it would have been nice to have a bit more length just for doing battle with the crowd, plus the added rail line would have helped on rail on some of the bigger ones.
Highlight was taking off behind my dad (he's 70) on a bomb and surfing behind him the whole way. He probably would have kicked out after seeing me behind him but I told him to keep going and parked it right behind him the entire way in
several surfs at the beach out front recently. haven't driven anywhere, didn't check the surf before I went out, usually ended up in the same couple-block zone.
Fri, Sat, Sun evenings: from shoulder high to a few feet overhead on sunday. Beautiful conditions the whole time, but a lot of people and some brutal lulls considering that. Took out the vernor board I picked up to be a groveler, a flat shortboard-ish thing at my height with a really wide tail. It's been weird and clunky in small dumpy beachbreak, but the bigger and cleaner surf I take it out in the better it feels. Sunday in particular was way bigger than I expected but glassy. The board was absolutely skating. I only did open-arced zero-power swoopy turns, but I felt like I could place them wherever and have speed from wherever. Set waves were just coming my direction too.
Mon morning: Out on the gun. In that instagram clip that surfline shared of the coast guard boats going through waves there I'm one of the little dots you can see next to the boats. They were being super obnoxious and honestly unnerving, driving right next to and inside of people, sending big wakes through the face of waves. Found a few but wasn't surfing well either, just felt off.
Weds late morning: Another big beautiful day. Brutal crowd right when I paddled out --- everyone was in a small zone, but that was where it was really working. Paddled up and down and then as it thinned out I found a few decent ones, mostly fun steep drops onto the shoulder. I didn't really line anything up deep, there were barrels everywhere but I couldn't find one.
Fri, Sat, Sun evenings: from shoulder high to a few feet overhead on sunday. Beautiful conditions the whole time, but a lot of people and some brutal lulls considering that. Took out the vernor board I picked up to be a groveler, a flat shortboard-ish thing at my height with a really wide tail. It's been weird and clunky in small dumpy beachbreak, but the bigger and cleaner surf I take it out in the better it feels. Sunday in particular was way bigger than I expected but glassy. The board was absolutely skating. I only did open-arced zero-power swoopy turns, but I felt like I could place them wherever and have speed from wherever. Set waves were just coming my direction too.
Mon morning: Out on the gun. In that instagram clip that surfline shared of the coast guard boats going through waves there I'm one of the little dots you can see next to the boats. They were being super obnoxious and honestly unnerving, driving right next to and inside of people, sending big wakes through the face of waves. Found a few but wasn't surfing well either, just felt off.
Weds late morning: Another big beautiful day. Brutal crowd right when I paddled out --- everyone was in a small zone, but that was where it was really working. Paddled up and down and then as it thinned out I found a few decent ones, mostly fun steep drops onto the shoulder. I didn't really line anything up deep, there were barrels everywhere but I couldn't find one.
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