Winter's here. 1st surf of the season while snowing. A little too warm to stick to the beach. Waves were pretty blah but always pretty cool to surf in a snowstorm. Needed gloves today and that will probably last until April. So much extra effort to paddle w/ gloves. Shock to the system compared to Kauai last couple of weeks!
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
pic looks good am I'm lucky that I like what you sprayed on the top of my board.
I was curious too see what you thought of it as it's pretty different than what you're used to riding. Now you might understand why your punksanity felt heavy up front!
Surfed for ~7hrs yesterday in some of the best conditions I've seen so far this winter. Caught Kammies 9am - 11am in the last bits of the NE and then went Sunset till 1pm. Out again from ~3:30pm til dark. Waves were definitely staunch, I took off too late on one and ended up pinned to the reef, had to push off with my hands to come back up. I don't think I've ever seen the point throw quite that hard, few people definitely got their personal wave of the winter contenders out there.
Smart. I’m gonna start packing those in the wetsuit key pocket for anything over 35 min
leftover windswell on Oeste's punksanity. Was my day for waves and got a ton before the swell peter'd and the tide came up a bit. Not really clicking with the bore but you can definitely push hard on it.
Isurus 3mm is a really good suit.
Isurus 3mm is a really good suit.
Paddled out with Friend #1.
Sideshore/onshore winds.
Some headhead swell, maybe overhead on the drops.
Not great, less than average too, but surfable.
Paddling out in the dark helped make the session happen.
More lefts than rights, but more 'paddle and not make it' or 'paddle and go over with it'.
Got to work 3 minutes late.
Sideshore/onshore winds.
Some headhead swell, maybe overhead on the drops.
Not great, less than average too, but surfable.
Paddling out in the dark helped make the session happen.
More lefts than rights, but more 'paddle and not make it' or 'paddle and go over with it'.
Got to work 3 minutes late.
cold bumpy hard to catch garbage with a crowd. fml. at least i got paddle exercise. wavez sucked. shouldve driven south
Probably would’ve passed but my buddy was suiting up as I drove by, so paddled the Varial Plasmic out to the reef. Only four of us out and it was actually more fun than it looked. Waist to stomach high wedges breaking close to shore.
i got a ton of lil fs waves with punchy drop and then a section to race, float, or pull in before it got to the sand. A couple "sets" walled up enough for a fs snap. my buddy and an older local bro left and it was just me an a newb. I kept getting lots of short waves that were just about punchy enough to keep me paddling back out. Amused myself by trying to pull into the section and mostly getting smashed. I forgot my gu energy blocks, but stayed out an hour.
Isurus 2mm is a really good suit.
i got a ton of lil fs waves with punchy drop and then a section to race, float, or pull in before it got to the sand. A couple "sets" walled up enough for a fs snap. my buddy and an older local bro left and it was just me an a newb. I kept getting lots of short waves that were just about punchy enough to keep me paddling back out. Amused myself by trying to pull into the section and mostly getting smashed. I forgot my gu energy blocks, but stayed out an hour.
Isurus 2mm is a really good suit.
Fun leftovers from yesterday's big swell this afternoon. Took the bigger fcs single fin I was running out and replaced with a 7.75" Lopez from Futures. Board feels nice and cruisy now, not slow.
Slight mid period bump kept it rideable. Mitsimmons was teh right call but I was just on the wrong waves.
Pulled into some offshore closeouts at the beachie. Air is cold but still in a 3/2 Xcel. Ran RNF96 with BMTs. Tons of wildlife out this AM
ordered a new wetsuit, last wednesday, promptly got stung by a stingray, was ready to start surfing again as my foot was feeling better this week but then Tuesday night I woke up in the middle of the night and my seemingly healed stingray puntcure was itching like a mofo, could not sleep for a couple hours it was maddening. went to work all worn out but by the end of the day my foot was sore and red around the wound. had to go to urgent care and they xrayed to make sure no stinger parts were under the skin, there weren't but put me on antibiotics and I keep soaking and squeezing the wound area. I keep looking at my new wetsuit, it looks warm. Freakin devlil fish!
small clean grovel sesh. surfed like absolute crap on the dank farts. lot of waiting made for a chilly morining
They didn't suggest anti inflammatory or cortisone?
One summer I got hit twice in one week and a 3rd time later that month. The best remedy for me at the time was scaldingly hot water for hours as soon as possible. I had one that lingered for a long time. It almost seems to return as it breaks up. The soreness lasted a few weeks, the itch lasted a few months and it left a patch of swollen scarry skin for a few years in the arch of my foot.
A+ waves today. Off-shore, 6.5 @ 14 peeling wave trains. Crowd not too bad.
7'2 Twinpin w/ T.Know fins were $$$
3 hrs and surfed out. No barrels or barrellets, but highlines and some lips and wraps.
Cold though.
7'2 Twinpin w/ T.Know fins were $$$
3 hrs and surfed out. No barrels or barrellets, but highlines and some lips and wraps.
Cold though.
Was a cold paddle out this morning. Well, cold for here.
A bit larger than I thought it would be, and kinda random. Made the paddle out a bit of a chore, aka shifting "channel".
Should have warmed up the paddling muscles more. Got a little bit of that feeling like throwing a baseball too hard before things are warmed up.
The first duckdive, even with the hood, was a bit of a jolt.
Anyway, beat Friend #1 outside, so already winning for the day.
So of course, the first wave I made was with him dropping in on me, but since it closed out on him too, I didn't need to spear him.
Made some almighty duckdives, which always is satisfying on various levels. Yay for not getting shoved inside or pulled over the falls!
Longest rides was a left but the shape was poor. Best ride was a short right with great shape...more drop and bottom turn that pretty quickly went to mush, but for a second, it was all so well executed...the positioning, the paddle, the smooth drop, the pressure on the bottom turn, the quick set up on the wall, the moment you see it stretch in front of you and the hope of a fantastic ride. And then the wave hit a deep spot and there went that.
Got minor tumble coming in through shore break and felt the tinge of ice-cream headache. Man, what happened to my youthful hot bloodedness that made me feel invulnerable-to-cold in a hooded suit?
Lots of drift during session made for a long walk back to the car, and my hands were pretty numb when I got to it.
PS
What time you go out, Woke AF? I could still see Canis Major when I paddled out.
A bit larger than I thought it would be, and kinda random. Made the paddle out a bit of a chore, aka shifting "channel".
Should have warmed up the paddling muscles more. Got a little bit of that feeling like throwing a baseball too hard before things are warmed up.
The first duckdive, even with the hood, was a bit of a jolt.
Anyway, beat Friend #1 outside, so already winning for the day.
So of course, the first wave I made was with him dropping in on me, but since it closed out on him too, I didn't need to spear him.
Made some almighty duckdives, which always is satisfying on various levels. Yay for not getting shoved inside or pulled over the falls!
Longest rides was a left but the shape was poor. Best ride was a short right with great shape...more drop and bottom turn that pretty quickly went to mush, but for a second, it was all so well executed...the positioning, the paddle, the smooth drop, the pressure on the bottom turn, the quick set up on the wall, the moment you see it stretch in front of you and the hope of a fantastic ride. And then the wave hit a deep spot and there went that.
Got minor tumble coming in through shore break and felt the tinge of ice-cream headache. Man, what happened to my youthful hot bloodedness that made me feel invulnerable-to-cold in a hooded suit?
Lots of drift during session made for a long walk back to the car, and my hands were pretty numb when I got to it.
PS
What time you go out, Woke AF? I could still see Canis Major when I paddled out.
9-12Was a cold paddle out this morning. Well, cold for here.
A bit larger than I thought it would be, and kinda random. Made the paddle out a bit of a chore, aka shifting "channel".
Should have warmed up the paddling muscles more. Got a little bit of that feeling like throwing a baseball too hard before things are warmed up.
The first duckdive, even with the hood, was a bit of a jolt.
Anyway, beat Friend #1 outside, so already winning for the day.
So of course, the first wave I made was with him dropping in on me, but since it closed out on him too, I didn't need to spear him.
Made some almighty duckdives, which always is satisfying on various levels. Yay for not getting shoved inside or pulled over the falls!
Longest rides was a left but the shape was poor. Best ride was a short right with great shape...more drop and bottom turn that pretty quickly went to mush, but for a second, it was all so well executed...the positioning, the paddle, the smooth drop, the pressure on the bottom turn, the quick set up on the wall, the moment you see it stretch in front of you and the hope of a fantastic ride. And then the wave hit a deep spot and there went that.
Got minor tumble coming in through shore break and felt the tinge of ice-cream headache. Man, what happened to my youthful hot bloodedness that made me feel invulnerable-to-cold in a hooded suit?
Lots of drift during session made for a long walk back to the car, and my hands were pretty numb when I got to it.
PS
What time you go out, Woke AF? I could still see Canis Major when I paddled out.
Drift was annoying but not really bad. Hard dropping in with the out going tide and building off shores. Missed some bombs.
Off to the surgeon for pre surgery consultation ear drilling #3. The beach taking payment.
First surf after a long work week that included stomach flu ravaging my family. Got out there for the sunset sesh. Mid-day was pumping, but the swell had come down by late afternoon, and I ran right out to nearest bar after parking rather than heading further south where it looked a couple feet bigger. Ended up finding a decent right peak and getting a couple quick high and tight pocket rides and a good wrap. Thereafter stuck on a right ledge that bent out to sea and grew into a bigger wall coming straight at it. Wonk, long lulls, and growing chill could not dampen the sublime sunset -- a neon slab of clouds smeared across the sky for miles. Got my last one in as the moonlight started reflecting off the water. Yew!