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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Woke AF

Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,658
8,146
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Opposite Day
A little smaller and a lot of morning sickness. Easy paddle out and a set wave comes right to me. I told my neighbor kid ripper to take it. That was the last decent wave that was near me. Bumpy close outs, stepladder drops and bumpy faces was all I got. Nothing remotely memorable.
Found myself surrounded by people who pretended to want to go but would pull back or be riding a tiny board and splash a lot. Paddled away to find hyper aggressive 30 y/o’s.
whatever riding the parmy is a joy even in sht conditions. Wish I had a 7’2 though.

walking home a block from the beach a really tall guy 7’+ dressed like he stepped out of the Matrix asked me what kind of board I had? Singlefin.
Hmmmm, (thinking thinking) Are there waves out there?
Yes, they are out there, I say
 
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sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,581
3,491
113
Being completely surf-stoked can be difficult on the brain, body & heart. Wifey and I wanted to surf so badly this morning that we woke at 5 to drive an hour south for something, only to find the tide swamped it out yet still tons of people out. Nope.

Drove back and stopped at a terrible beach break only about 20 minutes south of my house, and ended up having a ball surfing knee-waist high slop all alone. We laughed and caught a bunch of waves for an hour-and-a-half in the frigid cold and bright sunlight. Wifey was on a CI Mid-Length we borrowed from a friend and she ended up loving it. Looks like we're getting a 6'10" CI mid-length. I was on my shortboard and hating it, with only a couple moments of 'speed.' The GMM2 would've been much much better, but man it was nice to get wet and not have to battle any crowds.

Still so surf stoked, it's stupid.

Gonna go tomorrow, too, and the forecast is awful.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,316
23,609
113
PNW
East wind morning up north. Jetty lefts. Clean and fairly organized but kind of weak. Pretty crowded and mostly locals so i kinda hunted the inside. Twigsman felt less than stellar in the mushy lefts so i went in and grabbed the Disco. Quad. Much better. Crowd thinned and I went out the back and got a few nicer set waves. Last wave was a nice long one. Fun session but overall not quite as good as what Ive been getting. Im spoiled.
 
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B

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,950
3,116
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Surfed the reefs during the week small and fun, today went to a local beach break mid morning paddled down the beach to a riptide that was giving up a little shape. Got two quick lefts on the 5 10 Kenson ppig. Then the rip kept pushing me too far out, it was a constant battle to stay inside and the guys 50 yards up the beach were just sitting there. I finally got tired and paddled down to their zone but they moved 50 yards south and the rip reformed where I had moved. Literally paddling against the rip for 45 minutes. Finally said f it and paddled back north to my original spot no rip for 5 minutes then a close out set came and boom riptide was on me again. At least I got some exercise. 9 days off hope to surf a lot.
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,370
21,929
113
The Bar
Right after that half marathon, got sick with flu for last two weeks, finally feeling a bit better and took a late morning/early afternoon surf. Slight onshore wind but nothing too horrible. Chest to shoulder high waves with an occasional head high set, shared the outer bar with one other person and then had it to myself for the last hour or so. Generally pretty burgery but it was pretty consistent and there were some fun bowly lefts that stood up for a bit. There were lined up rights but they were much more finicky, tended to race away or close out.

Fun sesh that I really needed. Somehow surfed only for about an hour and a half but got about 20 waves in that time. Pretty efficient session overall considering the amount of paddling. Except for the end when the tide bottomed out, never had to wait too long for waves. But at end it turned funkier and more lulls so got a good one in halfway; probably would have had a better rebound if I hadn't paused to admire my cutback but it was nice to see so I don't regret it. Took next one from flats, proned about 100 feet before wave stood up in shorebreak and then got a little bonus wave out of that too.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,316
23,609
113
PNW
Long day working on a bunch of different projects and I was tired but I managed to get down to the cove with a bit over an hour of daylight left. Looked a little smaller than last time but not flat. @j_mac 's recent post inspired me to throw the Plasmid in my rig and I was so glad that I did. Drab Twins felt very good. Definitely the best this board has felt. The waves were kind of amazing. Glassy rights wrapping around the sand bar. Maybe chest high and long, makeable sections. Plasmid was getting me in early and flying across the high line. So much speed and glide. Just great. There were good turn sections too and I was stoked on how much fun it was when I got my foot back over the fins and pushed that long rail line through a wrap. I was expecting just a quick paddle and maybe a couple grovely waves but it ended up being a legit fun session. My novice friend showed up but he got stuck inside right away and never really figured it out. He was still stocked just to be out there though and the sunset was another great one. La Nina bringing the goods. Tomorrow supposed to be pretty flat though.
 
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N

nwjkordel

Jul 25, 2020
31
93
18
Had a great run of surf the past 12 days mostly on the north shore of the garden isle. Can’t believe how nice it is to surf without being encased in my normal hooded 5/4 and booties. I packed light with a small board bag to keep things simple and have been super happy with 6’1 and 6’5 Doc Lausch quads. Could have used a 7’6 on a couple of the biggest days but the 6’5 was okay. Mostly rights but some really fun lefts too. Local surfers have generally been very friendly too. Haven’t surfed warm water since before the pandemic!

Unfortunately my string of good luck ended last night when I got tagged on a duck dive I probably should have bailed on instead. Just after my board got ripped out of my hands somehow the tail of my board made a beeline for my hand and face, luckily my hand got the worst of it with a pretty deep fin gash. Kind of a bummer to have to sit out the last couple of days of this trip, but so stoked with this trip. My wife doesn’t mind since chasing waves won’t compete with a couple of last days for hiking. First time here but would definitely like to return.
 
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