so there's waves today and good conditions and all u erbber's can talk about is rubber...
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Its not about having weak glass its more about comparing weak a$$ glass jobs from certain labels with album and claiming its strongerMaybe it’s not about you.
According to the other thread, it also seems like many of us Southerners prefer lighter glassing than you consider “ normal” for our weak-ass waves. And that’s okay too…
No not what I heard but comparing it to a standard pu/pe 4/4 4 does not give me much confidence and same goes to tyson killer comparing it to CI ultra light glass job
yeah, already clarified that one. we have reached broken record.
Surfed the regular this morning. Heard it was bigger yesterday. Paddled the Striker out again. Boar is fun. Got a couple double ups. Been working on figure 8 cutbacks with a b/s off the lip rebound. Did a mediocre one but was encouraged then on the same wave did a harder roundhouse on the inside but came out of my crouch too early with no power in the rebound.
Best wave. My friends all got a wave before me. As they were paddling back out I got a nugget. Got a good bottom turn and was looking for them to see if I could spray Jerome. He was way on the shoulder but I was already committed to a top turn and I bashed it. I didn’t think I was close but I hosed a wahine sitting in the middle section. Could hear the boys laughing and Keone paddles up to her and tells her to spray him back. I told Jerome I was looking for you but I had to finish that turn. Did I get her good? He replies oh yeah. Gotta find that on the rewind cam. Haha
Best wave. My friends all got a wave before me. As they were paddling back out I got a nugget. Got a good bottom turn and was looking for them to see if I could spray Jerome. He was way on the shoulder but I was already committed to a top turn and I bashed it. I didn’t think I was close but I hosed a wahine sitting in the middle section. Could hear the boys laughing and Keone paddles up to her and tells her to spray him back. I told Jerome I was looking for you but I had to finish that turn. Did I get her good? He replies oh yeah. Gotta find that on the rewind cam. Haha
mellow reef this morning and virgin session for new puddle jumper. Definitely a plank but it's fun. Dan mann quads felt balanced but lacked drive and were a little washy. shoulder is telling me i'm not ready to come back full swing so I'm gonna mellow out once I come back home. wind has been nuking central cal style in the afternoons. perfect drinking weather
I needed today. Got a noon session with basically no crowd, had a peak primarily to myself for about 1 hour and then the crowds started coming. So many waves I actually got tired. Haha. Even with a wetsuit, I was stocked having so much fun. I would say 3-5', mostly lefts, but some rights. Manta makes it easy to get longer rides. 
@silentbutdeadly do you have some large am quads? thas my preferred fcs2 setup in the PJ.
another solo session at the open beaches. maybe nipple high sets but fairly weak.. a light wind was swirling, bringing the fog bank in and then back out again throughout the session. the sun would appear and the ocean would glass off for a while and then some texture would develop on the oceans surface and the fog would move back in. the waves were not great. it was very hard to get one that didn't just race off and close out before i could get a turn off. rode the 5-10 SMTH as a thruster. it felt okay on the few good waves i got. first time riding it in the open beaches and it handled the steep drops fine. sometimes i feel like this board has just a little too much entry rocker. like, it doesn't get into waves as early as something with this much foam and width should. it feels good when up and riding though. quick and easy to throw around. overall it was good to get in the ocean and after 3 days of surfing in a row i'm starting to feel like i'm getting back into surf shape.
another solo session at the open beaches. maybe nipple high sets but fairly weak.. a light wind was swirling, bringing the fog bank in and then back out again throughout the session. the sun would appear and the ocean would glass off for a while and then some texture would develop on the oceans surface and the fog would move back in. the waves were not great. it was very hard to get one that didn't just race off and close out before i could get a turn off. rode the 5-10 SMTH as a thruster. it felt okay on the few good waves i got. first time riding it in the open beaches and it handled the steep drops fine. sometimes i feel like this board has just a little too much entry rocker. like, it doesn't get into waves as early as something with this much foam and width should. it feels good when up and riding though. quick and easy to throw around. overall it was good to get in the ocean and after 3 days of surfing in a row i'm starting to feel like i'm getting back into surf shape.
Today was better than yesterday. New swell direction seemed to adhere to the banks available a lot better and was way more consistent. The trick was to pick the right ones as there was still a few bigger straight ones coming from the East.
Took the Fiji out and finally got a few nice carves in with a bit of face to work with. Take offs feel super smooth. It loves a bottom turn for some reason but this session I managed to link it into a few wraps. Felt super smooth and like I threw a bit of water considering the shoulder high swell. Also got a few nice floaters going which seemed to travel well. Only got two lefts (backside) and it's going to take some getting used to the length there, I felt like I tried to go to vertical from my bottom turn for the size and speed of the waves available. I haven't ridden anything longer than my 5'11 Fever in 8 years I reckon but the feelings i'm getting have me pretty stoked, especially as the waves are on the lower end of what the design is intended for.
A few non-session random thoughts:
- I've lost a bit of confidence post-surgery. I think I'm a bit tentative with the internal healing that's happening. I'm super unfit. Also, I don't want to fuck my ear/sinus up. I can't do burpees or any equilibrium chaning exercises without getting a headache after a while so need to work out a vertical exercise regime to get me surf fit and bring back confidence before I miss a good swell. Got radiation coming up too. I'm hoping I will still have the energy to surf a bit though probably only short sessions.
- The time out of the water has made me realise that I don't really want to bother surfing aggressively in the pocket trying to go vertical to send the fins out the back anymore. I don't particularly enjoy watching that style anymore and at 33 I'm probably better off smoothing things out. I feel like a lot of the time I scratch in, jump to my feet, shuffle into the sweet spot, generate speed and try to go to town over and over again. I grew up idolising and trying to imitate Taj but these days I prefer to watch guys with more melow styles holding long carves. I actually prefer that feeling too, there's nothing better than a long wrapping cutback or the release of a solid turn. Plus you make more sections for longer rides. This is why I have transformed my quiver.
I think I will end up with a quiver of:
- Album Plasmic for smaller stuff.
- MOTE Fiji for decent waves, crowds, battling sweep or surfing the points.
These will probably be in my car for most surf checks. To mix it up I will throw in
- Some sort of small quad (probably a NPJ Quartet) for small barrelling beachies we get around here and trips to Straddie. Fiji might make this obsolete, I'll see.
- Jim Banks Magic Carpet because I want to get used to surfing keels and to change the feelings up.
- MR Super Twin just in case I feel like taking my anger out and ripping in.
- If I get my mojo back I might get a proper gun. Maybe Outer Islands, maybe Webster or something local.
Took the Fiji out and finally got a few nice carves in with a bit of face to work with. Take offs feel super smooth. It loves a bottom turn for some reason but this session I managed to link it into a few wraps. Felt super smooth and like I threw a bit of water considering the shoulder high swell. Also got a few nice floaters going which seemed to travel well. Only got two lefts (backside) and it's going to take some getting used to the length there, I felt like I tried to go to vertical from my bottom turn for the size and speed of the waves available. I haven't ridden anything longer than my 5'11 Fever in 8 years I reckon but the feelings i'm getting have me pretty stoked, especially as the waves are on the lower end of what the design is intended for.
A few non-session random thoughts:
- I've lost a bit of confidence post-surgery. I think I'm a bit tentative with the internal healing that's happening. I'm super unfit. Also, I don't want to fuck my ear/sinus up. I can't do burpees or any equilibrium chaning exercises without getting a headache after a while so need to work out a vertical exercise regime to get me surf fit and bring back confidence before I miss a good swell. Got radiation coming up too. I'm hoping I will still have the energy to surf a bit though probably only short sessions.
- The time out of the water has made me realise that I don't really want to bother surfing aggressively in the pocket trying to go vertical to send the fins out the back anymore. I don't particularly enjoy watching that style anymore and at 33 I'm probably better off smoothing things out. I feel like a lot of the time I scratch in, jump to my feet, shuffle into the sweet spot, generate speed and try to go to town over and over again. I grew up idolising and trying to imitate Taj but these days I prefer to watch guys with more melow styles holding long carves. I actually prefer that feeling too, there's nothing better than a long wrapping cutback or the release of a solid turn. Plus you make more sections for longer rides. This is why I have transformed my quiver.
I think I will end up with a quiver of:
- Album Plasmic for smaller stuff.
- MOTE Fiji for decent waves, crowds, battling sweep or surfing the points.
These will probably be in my car for most surf checks. To mix it up I will throw in
- Some sort of small quad (probably a NPJ Quartet) for small barrelling beachies we get around here and trips to Straddie. Fiji might make this obsolete, I'll see.
- Jim Banks Magic Carpet because I want to get used to surfing keels and to change the feelings up.
- MR Super Twin just in case I feel like taking my anger out and ripping in.
- If I get my mojo back I might get a proper gun. Maybe Outer Islands, maybe Webster or something local.
thanks ruker. I have not been a fan of AM's but I'll try to get a hiold of a set to give a try. mayhem's with qd 4's are next option
@Tomay Glad to hear you're getting some surfs in again. What you're dealing with makes me appreciate how fortunate I've been injury/health-wise, to this point. Also puts into perspective how lucky we all are to still get to play in the ocean as adults and experience the sensations of gliding on a wave of water. Most people on this planet have no idea how good that feels.
#courage
#courage
parked, rode my carver down to the beach for a surf check, and came back to gleefully put on my 3/2 for my session this AM
@rowjimmytour
j/k but for real, wore a 3/2... water is cold for August
Bing cypress felt good for mushy peaks. set up as Rasta twin plus trailer for a mix of drive and pivot. for some reason it was the least crowded than I've seen it all year at my local today, which was great
@rowjimmytour
j/k but for real, wore a 3/2... water is cold for August
Bing cypress felt good for mushy peaks. set up as Rasta twin plus trailer for a mix of drive and pivot. for some reason it was the least crowded than I've seen it all year at my local today, which was great
ya south must not have enough west for us either. nothing doing at my local.
west 4-5@10 filled in today though. lots of junk interference from the high pressure just off shore but the coastal conditions weren't too bad. same spot i've been surfing but this time with a couple friends. rode the twinsman and had a bad first half of the session trying to surge the mushy right out front. each of my buddies got a couple but i was just out of it, making poor decisions. finally went in and walked up the beach to try the left. got a couple fun ones right away. my friends followed me. everyone got a few and ended the session on a good note. my last wave was pretty decent, got a nice turn. we bodysurfed the wedging shorepound for a little while which was fun as well. wish i'd brought my boogie down, it would have been sick.
west 4-5@10 filled in today though. lots of junk interference from the high pressure just off shore but the coastal conditions weren't too bad. same spot i've been surfing but this time with a couple friends. rode the twinsman and had a bad first half of the session trying to surge the mushy right out front. each of my buddies got a couple but i was just out of it, making poor decisions. finally went in and walked up the beach to try the left. got a couple fun ones right away. my friends followed me. everyone got a few and ended the session on a good note. my last wave was pretty decent, got a nice turn. we bodysurfed the wedging shorepound for a little while which was fun as well. wish i'd brought my boogie down, it would have been sick.
rode the griff quad this morning before heading home. got a couple but the shoulder wasn't havin it so I cut the session short. had a nice little fam trip south of the border.
Lovely sunny late afternoon surf with my nephew northside of scripps pier. He’s been riding a friggin 6’ CatchSurf fish & and 8’ Almond softtop the past few months but is finally ready for a hardboard. He’s improved a lot and did great on my R. Smoothie as a quad. Thought it might be a little small for him (3” shorter than him) but he caught a ton of waves- I forgot how much it helps to be young and in good shape! He loved it and wants to get something similar. I suggested one around his height. Stocked he’s getting more into surfing.
Anyway, I surfed the 5’9 Mitsven quad minisim. Waves were peakier than I had expected but board still handled everything well including some late drops and steep sections. Of course it flew on the smaller runners. But most of the bigger ones (chest-high) closed out after a section or two. Board is so wide and glassed so heavy that it’s a PITA to duckdive. this one is 22”, definitely was for a bigger guy. Starting to suspect the next one could be a 1/2” -1” narrower…
also. Good news bros. Water was much warmer. Was toasty in 2mil by end of session. Maybe our long regional nightmare is over!
Anyway, I surfed the 5’9 Mitsven quad minisim. Waves were peakier than I had expected but board still handled everything well including some late drops and steep sections. Of course it flew on the smaller runners. But most of the bigger ones (chest-high) closed out after a section or two. Board is so wide and glassed so heavy that it’s a PITA to duckdive. this one is 22”, definitely was for a bigger guy. Starting to suspect the next one could be a 1/2” -1” narrower…
also. Good news bros. Water was much warmer. Was toasty in 2mil by end of session. Maybe our long regional nightmare is over!
oh i forgot to mention the water here has warmed up to a balmy 54F.
i surfed without gloves today for the first time in quite a while and it was glorious.
i surfed without gloves today for the first time in quite a while and it was glorious.