Thanksgiving eve session yesterday, solid oh to 2xoh swell in the water. My 3rd session back since hurting my knee in September.
Some memorable zippy backside rides with multiple turns and one frontside tube. Blew a late take-off (my fitness has dropped a bit) and the board kind of flipped over and i fell into my fins. Paddling back out felt weird and I flipped her over to reveal this. Good excuse to yolo during the interim I guess!
Dawned the NS regular on the new 6’1. Waves were OH with an occasional wash thru that weren’t that gnar gnar. But I was paddling into the bad spots of the breaking wave and got a couple good tumbles.
Conditions were nice and the crowd wasn’t bad cause there were a lot of waves as the swell filled in. Not enough north for it to be really good but the waves were big enough and drawn out enough to offer up corners. Some of the smaller ones were hitting the reef a little better.
Was in bad rhythm as far as duck diving went but was in a good rotation for sets and never had to sit outside for too long.
The Haleiwa contest will run tomorrow morning and if these conditions persist its Going to be good.
Got a couple of super micro longboard waves before the wind started nuking like 25mph offshore spray in the face while trying to paddle. Got blown all over trying to walk up the beach, shower, and change with the gusts. Got in a fun mountain bike ride with the boy and an uncle before gorging on grub.
Ill take it. Happy Thanksgiving, all.
surf at the beach out front. beautiful looking but deceptive. Relatively short period so gutless and just barely hitting sandbars and backing off, wedges moving up and down the beach without breaking etc. still got a few.
Woke up early and drove down to S. Cal. with two boards in my car but also a lil' dog that I was transporting for someone. Checked two spots and it was clean but just not enough swell to be that enticing, not worth the tiny extra hassle of leaving the dog on the beach, got to dinner at a respectable hour. happy thanksgiving to all.
I surfed yesterday later in the morning to try to lessen a numerous crowd. I rode the 7'10 Single Pocket Rocket for the crowd that did not become fewer, and waves have been just rolling in. A bit of push in the swell. Board worked well, and I sat outside of the horde. Some fun waves and even got a cheater 5 on a wall next to the curl through the inside. Trying to take the better set waves while deciding if I could slalom through the pack of 60 wide eyes gaping at me was frustrating. But no one was physically harmed.
Today the swell bumped way up. Double overhead on the better sets. Took out the 7'2 twinpin. Crowded in spots, and the waves were inconsistent, a little frustrating. After an hour of being in and out of a large rip, catch a set wave all the way to the beach.
While paddling out, an old guy on a sponge w/ one flipper, t-shirt and trunks was busy getting pounded on the inner bar. We were both in the rip, and I go by him and asked if he was ok? Thumbs up, all good. We eventually both get sucked out to the outer bar, and the rip is just as strong. We bob around for a while. A guy paddles over asks if the guy is ok and the guy gets irate and wants to be left alone. Another guy gets pulled into the rip, and we all are paddling to get out while shadowing the guy in the t-shirt. This went on for about 45 minutes while sirens around the beach were blaring. I thought someone on the beach called it in.
Eventually, he gets in past the outer bar, and a set wave takes him in. I get my one wave and take it all the way. When walking up the beach, the guy stops me and is all apologetic and says he has never been here before... fcking nutcase. The fire trucks were up the beach 2 blocks dealing with someone else, I assume.
First time in 10 days due to busy work week. Some lil runners on the 6'4 PlasmEgg at high tide reef #3. thigh-waist high, clean but soft. 15 guys n girls out on big boar n wavestorms. Stuck to the south side of the spot and got a bunch of sneaky rights towards the point. Mostly rode the middle of the board, swooped, glided, raced, kicked out, with the odd cutback here and there. Got cocky and pulled into an inviting section on the inside, and got bounced off the shallow reef, hitting my lower back. Gonna be sore tomorrow.
Water was clear. Air n water warm, was almost hot in 2mil. Stocked.
Checked my usual beach and the swell was starting to show but was completely walled, even with the tide. I checked a few other spots but they weren’t quite working. Went back to the beach and got in. There were occasional corners at my usual peak and not much of a crowd thanks to a healthy rip, but by occasional I mean one wave every 30 minutes. I eventually tried to go battle the hoard at a much more open faced right but was useless. Got two okay waves. Hopefully the swell will be enough I can surf alternate spots tomorrow.
Wednesday - double session, morning started on the 5' 9" Insanity, worked and got some good ones. For me, the board felt little too long for the wave, grabbed the 5' 4" Will's fish much better for the wave. Afternoon - fun play session on the 5' 4" Plasmic, which was perfect for the conditions.
Thursday morning - started at first light at reef break with the Insanity got some nice ones, but even the early cold start didn''t matter, got overly crowded quick especially for the conditions. I deecided to go elsewhere, which was wise, fun shorebreak on the Plasmic changed the outcome of the morning from a few waves to many waves with solid rides.
Friday morning, wasn't 100% clear on how it was going to go based on the wave buoys/forecast, thought it was going to be bigger so I started on the 6'6" Townsend to score some waves on the outside. Once again board felt long for the waves not 100% comfortable, quickly swapped out to the Plasmic and wave count jumped significantly and freely roamed between the outer and inner break. Afternoon session - went with the one and only Plasmic, another great session.
My body is starting to feel it, but tomorrow/sunday look solid - I will recover on Monday at work!
Dawned the NS regular on my 5’10 HIC Striker. Conditions were nice but swell had dropped from closing out yesterday to just about shoulder to head high. Was hoping the swell had turned more north from yesterday but still lots of west.
As the tide filled in there was a small northeast bump mixing in. Got one of those crossed up waves and it was the best one I surfed. Got a chip in and it looked like a boat wake crossing the wave up but it doubled up and made a steep corner. Snapped off the top into a wrap and did another carve down at the end. Only thing was I kept looking for those crossed up waves and ended up chasing those and letting the regular ones go. Threw my rotation off.