***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***


Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
Tower 13
wish I could. I need to coordinate a work trip out there someday so I can get a free flight out of it.

they are bringing rubber so no problem there.

good to know on the boards. they surf really good so they should be fine.
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Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
The Bar
Winter must be getting close - had frost on my windshield this morning. As morning progressed, became an absolutely beautiful day, sunny, warm, light offshore winds, but unfortunately a lot less swell. I could see the main break was already crowded again and just didn't want to deal with it; found a nice little peak elsewhere, like a very high tide Uppers, waist to chest high burgery rights and occasional "lefts". At first didn't look all that good but too nice a day to not surf. And it's usually better than it looks.

Ended up being really fun and actually relatively consistent. 50-150+ yard rights, lining up across the sandbar to the inside. About 4 to 6 of us having a pretty informal rotation, super mellow. Good seeing doc_flavonoid out there too; a lot of fun trading waves. Was out for a little under 3 hours and the vast majority of that was spent either surfing or paddling back out. Definitely lost count of how many waves I got in that time but it was a lot. Even though a little burgery, waves had enough push to get and keep you in them. A few of the waves petered out relatively quickly but a lot connected through the inside, making for a long ride. A day of 100 cutbacks, many of them quite lazy haha. But seriously, really fun cruisy day, mostly longboarders out but was definitely more than shortboardable. And on top of it an occasional expressway back out just to the side of the sandbar; made for a nice gentlemanly paddle back out.

Been surfing a lot last couple of weeks, nice to be getting into a bit of a rhythm. The new Senate has actually been working really well on these burgery days; part of that is related to dropping about 15 pounds over the course of the year, definitely has made a difference. And I got my 6'7" back from the shop too; outstanding repair. Stocked. Now hopefully I don't snap it the very next session.
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Billy Hamilton status
Oct 22, 2018
SF x Encinitas
Brutally hot with micro waves down here in NCSD. My brother and I were hoping to find a high tide sandbar with a little push this morning, but it was too weak for anything but a longboard so we went back to his place and got a workout in. Brought the Plasmic with me, hoping there would be something in the water. Looks like I shoulda brought the log.

If anyone in Machado Country wants to trade their log for my DA Plasmic for a few days, let me know. I'll be here until Friday.


Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
3 surfs at the beach out front:

Friday evening:
Quick surf right before dark, no look paddleout. Mixed up and sloppy mid period swell, but you can tell there's some brand new swell there -- head high sets with long period power. Tomorrow is going to be great!

Sat evening:
Where'd it go? Got there too late, it was low tide and quick and dumpy, but only waist high. Got some fast pumps and half-turns in, but it was exactly the type of conditions that make you feel fat and slow on your shortboard.

Sun afternoon/evening:
Marathon surf on the longboard. Waist high at most but beautiful and offshore. Packed, but lots of clueless learners who were drifting in big clumps and not staying on peaks. There were some really good longboarders, but on average it was the lowest skilled crowd I've ever seen there. Either way you can't complain about crowds when you're on a 10'0, and I think I managed to give off friendly vibes. Honestly a ton of fun on the log, got a bunch of awkward shuffle to the front noserides. Paddled up and down the entire length of the beach so as to not annoy the same people over and over, caught a ton of little waves. Logging rocks so much.
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Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
Fun playing around on the Kenson 9 4 at the beach break during high tide. Got some good nose rides and a bunch of glassy mini lefts going switch. Super clear water. Been riding the lb a lot when it’s small and have a new habit of rubbing off the skin on top of my big toe when I am laying on it and paddling around. First crater I’ve had in a long time. Hard to stay out of the water and now I have the week off.


Miki Dora status
Jul 13, 2020
San Diego
That was when I noticed the change. I don't bother with their surf forecasting now, their live wind and wind forecasting sucks too.
Pretty sure they're just re-posting the GFS Wave model with "fine tuning" for near-coastal HR reports -

Actually, this is kind of funny -

2.2.5. Near-shore visual wave estimates
Professional Surfline wave forecasters record visual estimates of near-shore wave height once per day in person or via fixed cameras at two locations in the lifeguard Division 1 area of Newport Beach; they do not make visual wave height estimates for other locations in the study area.
from: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ajem.2017.12.006
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Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
Lol OKAY. The next question is, do they have any standards for wave height? Because it's never right. At least they've made the cams better for all the extra cash they're charging.


Miki Dora status
Jul 13, 2020
San Diego
Lol OKAY. The next question is, do they have any standards for wave height? Because it's never right. At least they've made the cams better for all the extra cash they're charging.
The biggest confusion is the difference between what is a breaking wave height vs a significant wave height, which is what models provide.

I’m not sure which one Surfline claims to be providing. Its easy to produce sig wave height and check it against the coastal wave buoys for total energy offshore, but that doesn’t address the complexities of coastlines, underwater bathymetry, and constructive/destructive interference needed to give a breaking wave height estimate. I guess that’s where the text based report comes in based on visual observation.


Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
i'm a few sessions behind. apologies.

had a really good evening surf at a river jetty wave I've never surfed before. i surf the south jetty of the same river all the time but the north jetty is like another 10-15 min. drive because you have to go inland, cross the bridge and then drive all the way back out through a campground with speed bumps and whatnot. i used to check it but never saw it looking good so i finally gave up. i got the word from a friend that it was working so i made the trek. it looked kind of soft but fun so i took the plasmic (fascination twins ftw) and had an absolute blast. it was a peak but the lefts were better. a very un-oregon like wave and nothing like the other side of the river. the waves would stand up out the back and give you all the time in the world to catch them and then they would corner off and peel nice and easy but with a perfect quarter pipe face to slash. sometimes there would be an inside double up that would run again. 5-6 turns per wave. long paddle back out but the duckdives were easy. water was clear and not too cold but once the sun set the air temp plumeted and i ultimately got pretty chilled waiting for my set wave in. hopefully this spot is set up and we get to hit it again soon.

surfed the kelpy reef a couple times. rode a few dif boards. good times and great practice but tbh i'm getting kind of bored of this wave. there's just a limit to how steep the faces really get, even when it's big.

today one of my favorite zones to the south finally broke. i've been watching it for weeks waiting for the right conditions. crispy east winds and a fresh swell. hard to motivate with the air in the 40's and no one to surf with but i'm glad i went for it. rode the 6-6 sharpeye and got a bunch of fun waves. eventually it flooded out but it had another window in the evening. rode 6-4 bullet twin which kind of felt awesome. waves were even better i think and the current was a conveyor belt bringing me back to the lineup after each wave. some argentine rando came out but he couldn't make sense of it. he wanted to go too deep for his ability level and he got put through the ringer a few times before he gave up and left me out there alone again for the last hour of light. the sunset was a good one.