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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
midday, pretty high tide, side/onshore wind and knee-waist high at a local reef. Only 3 other people out, so that tells you how poor conditions were. 8' mini glider made a meal of the chunky mushburgers on offer. The glide is real... Can't imagine the speed on an 11 footer.
Pretty easy pickings, I caught 10 rights and 2 lefts in about 30min. Got cocky towards the end, and lost it on a bumpy chest-high set wave. Cursing myself as I helplessly watched my new board hurtling towards the inside reef and rocks. Well, I must have some karma points stored up, because a mullet-ed kid on a boogie was paddling back out and swam over and grabbed my board about 30 yds from the rocks. Not all heroes wear capes, some have shaved sides and a party in the back! I was so relieved that beautiful board is still in one piece. that would've ruined my day. So stocked!
Pretty easy pickings, I caught 10 rights and 2 lefts in about 30min. Got cocky towards the end, and lost it on a bumpy chest-high set wave. Cursing myself as I helplessly watched my new board hurtling towards the inside reef and rocks. Well, I must have some karma points stored up, because a mullet-ed kid on a boogie was paddling back out and swam over and grabbed my board about 30 yds from the rocks. Not all heroes wear capes, some have shaved sides and a party in the back! I was so relieved that beautiful board is still in one piece. that would've ruined my day. So stocked!
Got 3 waves in the dark at the regular then waited forever for the next wave. I got too picky and sat way too far outside. Waves were nice but long lulls. I waited so long the regulars were cheering for me to finally get one. Neal/Sponge was out and I think I got a snap right on him. He might have a pic with the bottom of my board and H4 fins. Haha sorry Neal, you told me to run you over. I was going to call it a sesh but it looked like it was going to pulse so I paddled back out and waited forever again. Did the same thing a couple more times. Got a really good deep double up that I back doored the tube, travelled a long way at speed and got clipped right as my nose was shooting out. Pretty sure the wave bowled and I didn’t turn down and ended up a little high on the exit. Ended up sitting on my board going over hoping it didn’t buckle under my ass. This swell and last the sets were really fun but long waits in between.
few dumpy close outs at kentoland with feral seppo and 20w 
6-2 twinzer (not exactly right for the conditions) but made a couple turns
6-2 twinzer (not exactly right for the conditions) but made a couple turns
A ton of waves and lots of backwash this morning on the dropping tide. I gave up on fighting the current and just did a couple laps while doing my best to stay away from the pack of groms decided to follow me out. Was going to call it after a couple hours, but saw a bunch of chest high hollow peeling lefts on my walk back and decided to have another go. Got a few little close out barrels and manages to surf for 3.5 hours with only two turns the entire session. Water was warmer than the 63 degrees reported
Got a shitty peak all to myself, was much colder than expected and I was freezing in just my top
Got 3 waves in the dark at the regular. One of them was steeper than I could see and did a boogie board takeoff and stood up after I bottom turned prone. Laughing the whole wave. Waves were smaller than yesterday and some long waits for sets. But the waves were nice. Got a couple that stood up and did some rail work. Best wave was a runner that I had to go around someone on the inside but used all that speed for a figure 8 cutty. Rode the green X2 and put a shatter on the tail doing something stupid. I started this prank where we poke our tails in the water and shoot our boards at our friends while they ride by or do it behind someone sitting in the lineup. Not meaning to hit the other surfer. Just because it’s stupid. Anyway I poked my tail in to shoot my board at Gregg as he rode by and sprayed me. Tide was low and I heard and felt a thunk. Karma police got me. Haha.
I surfed the last 4 days and it was sh!t all 4 days.
Dawned the regular on the Love Seat. Got a runner on my first wave. Got a nice lip smack and a swoop. Got a couple others like that then the ocean said go work. It was small so didn’t wear a leash. Paddled for a wave was going to stand up but it flattened out so I started paddling again and caught it but I must’ve moved too far up on my board and when I stood up I tipped over and the board went all the way in. Body surfed and swam to get it. Waited for a set and got one. It was shoulder high one of the better ones. Got tons of speed and laid into a carve. Pushed too hard and the tail slid. I wasn’t expecting the slide and tried to hold onto my board with my feet. But it got away and went almost to the breakwater. Climbed onto the rocks and walked to the showers. I remember when we were young we used run over those rocks. Now a days slow and steady. Haha.
BOOM!
Strong work Shoresman!
Not gonna get moves like that on some fag bored...
Back on the Timmy Patterson i see
Took a family trip up to Morro Bay area this weekend. Lots of fun tidepooling around Estero Bluffs and around the Rock. Rented an electric boat, chilled around the Bay, with kids loving the front row show of otters frolicking in the water, battling seagulls for their clams. Big highlight for the boy was seeing the birds picking apart a few rockfish(?) in the bay, leaving not much else but a skeleton and eyeballs. We circled around those fish 3 times until he was satisfied. Actually, as soon as we got back to our place, he immediately went on his tablet to learn everything about eyeballs so no he obviously wasn't wholly satisfied. 
Surf was beyond junk. But said screw it and surfed Saturday evening with a whole pack of people on wavestorms. Waves were about 1' with 3" power. Could get into them on my 6'6" SD and sorta down the line before it dumped but any hopes of setting it on rail in any way without sinking through the bottom of the wave were laughable. Was just nice to get out there. Although might have been something nasty in the water since I woke up at 2:30 in the morning and had the runs for the next 4 hours. Joy. Still checked it following morning and it was a wee-bit better but hard to motivate with about a quart of liquid sh!t lurking near the threshold. Maybe if the waves had been better, would have paddled out anyways but was kinda over it at that point.
Funny moment: Looking towards south and hear this loud thump on the sand just to my right. Thought someone had thrown a rock at me and missed but not a soul around. And I see this 3-4" clam on the sand next to me with 3 seagulls eyeing it closely. Damn seagull was trying to break the thing open by dropping it on my head from way up. Glad it missed because that would have been a complete 2020 way to be maimed/killed. What happened to the good old days when they just sh!t on you?!
Surf was beyond junk. But said screw it and surfed Saturday evening with a whole pack of people on wavestorms. Waves were about 1' with 3" power. Could get into them on my 6'6" SD and sorta down the line before it dumped but any hopes of setting it on rail in any way without sinking through the bottom of the wave were laughable. Was just nice to get out there. Although might have been something nasty in the water since I woke up at 2:30 in the morning and had the runs for the next 4 hours. Joy. Still checked it following morning and it was a wee-bit better but hard to motivate with about a quart of liquid sh!t lurking near the threshold. Maybe if the waves had been better, would have paddled out anyways but was kinda over it at that point.
Funny moment: Looking towards south and hear this loud thump on the sand just to my right. Thought someone had thrown a rock at me and missed but not a soul around. And I see this 3-4" clam on the sand next to me with 3 seagulls eyeing it closely. Damn seagull was trying to break the thing open by dropping it on my head from way up. Glad it missed because that would have been a complete 2020 way to be maimed/killed. What happened to the good old days when they just sh!t on you?!
Are you sure it was not the fried stuff from the great american fish co. that gave ya the runsTook a family trip up to Morro Bay area this weekend. Lots of fun tidepooling around Estero Bluffs and around the Rock. Rented an electric boat, chilled around the Bay, with kids loving the front row show of otters frolicking in the water, battling seagulls for their clams. Big highlight for the boy was seeing the birds picking apart a few rockfish(?) in the bay, leaving not much else but a skeleton and eyeballs. We circled around those fish 3 times until he was satisfied. Actually, as soon as we got back to our place, he immediately went on his tablet to learn everything about eyeballs so no he obviously wasn't wholly satisfied.
Surf was beyond junk. But said screw it and surfed Saturday evening with a whole pack of people on wavestorms. Waves were about 1' with 3" power. Could get into them on my 6'6" SD and sorta down the line before it dumped but any hopes of setting it on rail in any way without sinking through the bottom of the wave were laughable. Was just nice to get out there. Although might have been something nasty in the water since I woke up at 2:30 in the morning and had the runs for the next 4 hours. Joy. Still checked it following morning and it was a wee-bit better but hard to motivate with about a quart of liquid sh!t lurking near the threshold. Maybe if the waves had been better, would have paddled out anyways but was kinda over it at that point.
Funny moment: Looking towards south and hear this loud thump on the sand just to my right. Thought someone had thrown a rock at me and missed but not a soul around. And I see this 3-4" clam on the sand next to me with 3 seagulls eyeing it closely. Damn seagull was trying to break the thing open by dropping it on my head from way up. Glad it missed because that would have been a complete 2020 way to be maimed/killed. What happened to the good old days when they just sh!t on you?!
Judging by order of poos and contents therein, it happened after the ham sandwich but before the pizza dinner. Meh, could have been worse - only came out of one end.Are you sure it was not the fried stuff from the great american fish co. that gave ya the runs
Glad you had a good trip. Bummed to have missed you and that the waves were so small. I got a fun little session yesterday on the log, but....Took a family trip up to Morro Bay area this weekend. Lots of fun tidepooling around Estero Bluffs and around the Rock. Rented an electric boat, chilled around the Bay, with kids loving the front row show of otters frolicking in the water, battling seagulls for their clams. Big highlight for the boy was seeing the birds picking apart a few rockfish(?) in the bay, leaving not much else but a skeleton and eyeballs. We circled around those fish 3 times until he was satisfied. Actually, as soon as we got back to our place, he immediately went on his tablet to learn everything about eyeballs so no he obviously wasn't wholly satisfied.
Surf was beyond junk. But said screw it and surfed Saturday evening with a whole pack of people on wavestorms. Waves were about 1' with 3" power. Could get into them on my 6'6" SD and sorta down the line before it dumped but any hopes of setting it on rail in any way without sinking through the bottom of the wave were laughable. Was just nice to get out there. Although might have been something nasty in the water since I woke up at 2:30 in the morning and had the runs for the next 4 hours. Joy. Still checked it following morning and it was a wee-bit better but hard to motivate with about a quart of liquid sh!t lurking near the threshold. Maybe if the waves had been better, would have paddled out anyways but was kinda over it at that point.
Funny moment: Looking towards south and hear this loud thump on the sand just to my right. Thought someone had thrown a rock at me and missed but not a soul around. And I see this 3-4" clam on the sand next to me with 3 seagulls eyeing it closely. Damn seagull was trying to break the thing open by dropping it on my head from way up. Glad it missed because that would have been a complete 2020 way to be maimed/killed. What happened to the good old days when they just sh!t on you?!
Next time stop at pismo for dinner at MCclintocks kids well love it and you can eat good meatJudging by order of poos and contents therein, it happened after the ham sandwich but before the pizza dinner. Meh, could have been worse - only came out of one end.
Every so often I get tempted to paddle out while staying in those parts. Thank you for confirming it’s not a mirage, it is as bad as I generally suspect.
Next time for sure. We go up to Central Coast at least a couple times a year. Glad you did get some on the log, every once in a while there were some (very) small but semi-clean lefts coming through early that morning.Glad you had a good trip. Bummed to have missed you and that the waves were so small. I got a fun little session yesterday on the log, but....