it's actually been packed at dawn then the kids goin in around 7:30 or so to login for school.yeah, online teaching so all the kids are at the beach partying. in my days skipping school was a pretty serious offense but not these days. party on hs dudes, socialism will save u.
Good to know. Swell was missing the reefs at high tide so I made a rare journey to the pier. 10am- still pretty packed with dudes (maybe college kids?). Some fun swell, finally!, and got a few rights off the pilings which were mostly: race a couple sections, a check turn, and bash the lip on the end closeout. Tomo X-wing was a blast, even with the questionable Krypt powerdrive quads. Not that I really had many chances for turns... but surprisingly they actually seemed to go alright with that funky 3-pointed tail.it's actually been packed at dawn then the kids goin in around 7:30 or so to login for school.
Me too thought about headed down to maybe get 45 minutes in SLA but the fog was so thick on the cams I pussed out. Turns out I coulda easily got a sesh in by the time I had to do any work and the work took me all of 45 minutes but it looked tiny up here anyways.Wish I could have paddled out today (or any time this week); gotta be on call for work. Oh well. Hope everyone is getting some today. Looked like it was good.
as one old hammered skater to anotherTook the Vesso Love Seat out to the regular at dawn. The tide is really high in the morning and even higher in the afternoon. Waves were smaller than yesterday and fat. Got 3 waves and did a decent figure 8 cutty but my knee hurts when the waves are fat from having to push so hard and not getting any feedback from the waves energy.
When some of the regulars saw how early I came in they were asking that junk. I hate it when I’m about to paddle out and someone tells me the waves suck. So I just told them I had my fill. Talked to a couple of old timers and I told them remember back in the old days driving out to the north shore. If you had boards on your roof you’d get a thumbs up or thumbs down as a surf report. I hated getting the thumbs down but I felt like I had to take a crap when we got the thumbs really up, which meant it was HUGE. Haha.
Thanks. I have some Blue Emu spray. But the knee only seems to hurt surfing small soft waves. Just need the wave to push back. Not to worry though south swell and a small north is filling in.as one old hammered skater to another
I've had decent/good results with this emu oil stuff:
https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/blue-emu-original-super-strength-pain-relieving-cream/ID=prod380411-productBetter than cbd for me, ymmv.
and what the hell is an emu?