*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,152
3,409
113
Tower 13
yeah, online teaching so all the kids are at the beach partying. in my days skipping school was a pretty serious offense but not these days. party on hs dudes, socialism will save u.
it's actually been packed at dawn then the kids goin in around 7:30 or so to login for school.
 

oeste858

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 11, 2017
1,041
1,427
113
San Diego, CA
it's actually been packed at dawn then the kids goin in around 7:30 or so to login for school.
Good to know. Swell was missing the reefs at high tide so I made a rare journey to the pier. 10am- still pretty packed with dudes (maybe college kids?). Some fun swell, finally!, and got a few rights off the pilings which were mostly: race a couple sections, a check turn, and bash the lip on the end closeout. Tomo X-wing was a blast, even with the questionable Krypt powerdrive quads. Not that I really had many chances for turns... but surprisingly they actually seemed to go alright with that funky 3-pointed tail.
Ran into a buddy on the beach and caught up for 15 min, so only had <30 min of water time. Despite the annoying crowd, stocked on the board, fun little waves, and warm water.
 
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CutnSnip

Billy Hamilton status
Sep 11, 2018
1,545
910
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Wish I could have paddled out today (or any time this week); gotta be on call for work. Oh well. Hope everyone is getting some today. Looked like it was good.
Me too :( thought about headed down to maybe get 45 minutes in SLA but the fog was so thick on the cams I pussed out. Turns out I coulda easily got a sesh in by the time I had to do any work and the work took me all of 45 minutes but it looked tiny up here anyways.

weekend warrior status for me this week.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
3,663
2,656
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular on the Moonfish. That board is really fun. Waves were a little bigger than yesterday. Not quite HH. Lully. Medium crowd. Dropped in on a couple of long boarders that could barely surf. Heard what I thought was one of them trying to hoot me off. That just made me paddle harder. Flew down the line and got a figure 8 cutty that felt engaged. Paddled back out and asked the lineup which one tried to hoot me off. Jimmy said I think they just banged into each other that was the noise you heard. I rescued that wave. Haha.
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,175
695
113
Leucadia
m.youtube.com
a couple of stellar sessions the last week, from small days on the LB at the point, to a buttery glassy session at a reef down the street with one coworker for an hour before we got 000'd. I was surfing as well as I can expect at this point and did a sweet cutback backside then switched stance on the bottom turn pumped down the line and smacked the closeout goofy foot. yesterday had some time and a friend with access and got a couple tubes and fun beachy waves on the kenson twinzer. sadly our schoolboard just voted distance learning until January and i'm getting a knot under my shoulder blade from hunching over a keyboard all day, i'm gonna get a desk top chingadera dealio that allows you to stand and sit and stand and sit while still typing and starring in my google meet videos. #2020blows well i'm off to make up and wardrobe to prepare for 6 hours of starring in my reality show....
 

Havoc

Michael Peterson status
May 23, 2016
3,347
2,189
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun as fk today. chest to shoulder+ a-frames with push all up and down the beach. rode the stamps giggle box og 6'0 and holy chit that boar flies! was done after 20 mins as I got 4 excellent waves that were long and allowed multiple carves and hits during that time frame. the inside section had the perfect coping for end section reos and snaps old man stylee yo! stayed out another 45 mins but I could've left after the first 20 mins. got a bunch more lefts and rights carve hit race carve hit repeat. last wave was solid HH bigger of the day and the gb glided in and was flying. got out after that. 12 waves of quality with no closeouts in 1:15. regulars said yesterday was even better. good times, i needed that. btw, fkn ridiculously crowded since nobody goes to work or school anymore. but when u gangsta u get ur set waves uncontested.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,113
5,401
113
The Bar
Had really wanted to get out there yesterday but couldn't break away from work in the morning. Oh well. Paddled out at the crack of dawn at my usual. Waves were still around but dropping fast. Mostly knee to waist high peaks with the occasional shoulder to head high (but gutless) hurricane remnants. Some short peaky barrels to be had while having the occasional section to bash or slash. Timing was a little off sometimes on the latter as lip backed off at last minute on a few. Waves were very lumpy and crossed up. The quickly rising tide didn't help things. By 7:45, it was pretty much gutless garbage. Got several fun waves though and what else can you ask for.

One thing noticed for sure is that aquatic life has been prolific lately and it's great to see. Saw signs of a bait ball, couple fish jumping around, didn't think anything of it until dropping in on a closeout attempting to be a left, looked down as dropping in and holy sh!t, tight packed school of hundreds of what I think (at least that's what other guy said they probably were) were yellowfin croaker, mostly between 18 and 24 inches long. Peak I was surfing was surrounded by them. Probably thousands as they were stacked from the bottom to about 6 inches below the surface all swirling around me. Crazy. And the one time there was no one fishing from the shore. Go figure. :roflmao:
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,152
3,409
113
Tower 13
Swapped my old fuse with retodd's old stamps keel yesterday with oeste and rode it at a beachie this morning. Started out fun, then the tide filled in and kinda put the hurt on it. Holy farking shat it went from four of us to over 25 kids in minutes. wut de phuc?

Anyway. board is fast and lively as sh!t and somewhat reminds me of my old hanel. if you dip down and use the wave's energy to slingshot around or through a section it just flies. also works just cruising mellow s turns down the face too. Got a nice whippy roundhouse on my last wave.

phuc, I might need to get a high performance keel back in my quiver.:foreheadslap:
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
3,663
2,656
113
eastside oahu
Took the Vesso Love Seat out to the regular at dawn. The tide is really high in the morning and even higher in the afternoon. Waves were smaller than yesterday and fat. Got 3 waves and did a decent figure 8 cutty but my knee hurts when the waves are fat from having to push so hard and not getting any feedback from the waves energy.

When some of the regulars saw how early I came in they were asking that junk. I hate it when I’m about to paddle out and someone tells me the waves suck. So I just told them I had my fill. Talked to a couple of old timers and I told them remember back in the old days driving out to the north shore. If you had boards on your roof you’d get a thumbs up or thumbs down as a surf report. I hated getting the thumbs down but I felt like I had to take a crap when we got the thumbs really up, which meant it was HUGE. Haha.
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,270
290
83
Took the Vesso Love Seat out to the regular at dawn. The tide is really high in the morning and even higher in the afternoon. Waves were smaller than yesterday and fat. Got 3 waves and did a decent figure 8 cutty but my knee hurts when the waves are fat from having to push so hard and not getting any feedback from the waves energy.

When some of the regulars saw how early I came in they were asking that junk. I hate it when I’m about to paddle out and someone tells me the waves suck. So I just told them I had my fill. Talked to a couple of old timers and I told them remember back in the old days driving out to the north shore. If you had boards on your roof you’d get a thumbs up or thumbs down as a surf report. I hated getting the thumbs down but I felt like I had to take a crap when we got the thumbs really up, which meant it was HUGE. Haha.
as one old hammered skater to another :roflmao:
I've had decent/good results with this emu oil stuff:
Better than cbd for me, ymmv.
and what the hell is an emu? :unsure:
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
3,663
2,656
113
eastside oahu