Surfed the North end of town today, OG's call it Tomato Patch. Waves looked great during checkout and suit up, and they don't usually even look desirable at this place. Easy paddle out, then no sets, barely, for two hours while the tide filled in and made my reef too deep to break anymore. Caught four waves, did a butt plant on one, argghh. The two dudes that had the same session timing as me also had dismal waves counts. At least I didn't get 000'd, there were three standups about 100 yards to the right, and a horde of guys 300 yards to the left, below the beach access stairs. While the south swell seemed to disappear, some short interval rights from the northern direction started to filter through. Summer wind swells are fun in my hood, better than inconsistent long period waves.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Yesterday morning was the best surf I have had in a while. Got some bombs and pulled into an absolute nugget which clamped on me and then I happily wore 6 waves on the head .
10 wave overhead roping sets every 30 mins and sheet glass all Morning . It picked up all day too.
today was not as big but just as good , had one of those magic sessions where you keep being on the right spot.
Did run over a guy on a wave storm on a screamer but no injury’s and no board damage .
And now hopefully he knows to paddle the fuck out of the way hahaha
beer Time
10 wave overhead roping sets every 30 mins and sheet glass all Morning . It picked up all day too.
today was not as big but just as good , had one of those magic sessions where you keep being on the right spot.
Did run over a guy on a wave storm on a screamer but no injury’s and no board damage .
And now hopefully he knows to paddle the fuck out of the way hahaha
beer Time
Decided to try my hand at shaping my own board. Bought a blank and started mowing foam. Surprisingly didn't screw it up and got something that resembles a surfboard after a few hours. Now on to glassing it. Going to do a single 6 oz layer top and bottom with twin fin setup.
Oh man. I hope your knee feels better after taking it easy. Also, You get up at 4:30am to surf?!? Damn, that is dedication!
Jealous of all you guys who got to surf this weekend swell. Summer reefs looked fun. Hope there’ll still be some left for me tomorrow!
This morning was really good and really crowded. 99% lefts, but you could force a right to hit the on coming section if you were lucky enough to not have someone hauling ass on the left. Highlight was an overhead left where I was in an almost a perfect rhythm of bottom turn to carve off the top four times in a row until I had to call someone off and mistimed the final hit on the inside. Judges would have been upset with my lack of variety, but I was stocked
desperation bar this morning. Got more waves in my first ten minutes than I caught all session yesterday. got funky but at least the gx got to stretch its legs. water was 60
all alone the whole session, there were some really good waves but it was all over the place and usually not where i was.
negative tide, super warm water. photos or video would make it look like an epic day, but in truth it was such a long wait between good waves, i couldnt hang
negative tide, super warm water. photos or video would make it look like an epic day, but in truth it was such a long wait between good waves, i couldnt hang
Dawned it this morning at my usual. Have what feels like the beginning of a round of bursitis in my left hip, the ol' ice pick grinding in the joint. Was dragging me down in the water a bit, especially on takeoffs. Hopefully clears up real soon. Sat out this weekend so was looking forward to this morning. South wind was on it but not horrible. Rips galore though and that was sort of horrible, longshore current would just rip you off the sandbar too, hard to stay in the right spot. But still plenty of overhead lefts rolling through and the minus tide was making them very hollow again but a lot trickier with wind/rip chop, shiftiness, and tendency for waves to lurch on you when they hit the shallows. Had a period where I was sitting inside, trying to take off too late/deep, bottom dropped out, and pearled to my eyebrows. Three waves in a row - ouch. Got redemption shortly after though by being smarter and sitting a bit further out.
But got a bunch of others that didn't, including a couple long lefts that threw the whole way across and got pretty solid barrels on. Really fun session overall. Good workout too as there was hardly a moment when I wasn't paddling to try to stay on top of sandbar. Couple people here and there but really spread out with maybe a half dozen people out over a mile or so of beach.
But got a bunch of others that didn't, including a couple long lefts that threw the whole way across and got pretty solid barrels on. Really fun session overall. Good workout too as there was hardly a moment when I wasn't paddling to try to stay on top of sandbar. Couple people here and there but really spread out with maybe a half dozen people out over a mile or so of beach.
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lully with a growing crowd but some pretty damn fun peaks on the tide push. a lot of water in my nose from barrels i didn't make (that's my speciality move BTW).
Chest high drained out combo this morning in SLA as the tide was just starting to rebound. Super clean conditions and some fun one's coming through in a decent but well behaved crowd. Fast racy little runners on the flare, and got a couple little head dips and visions. Blew it on the one legit barrel opportunity on my backhand - i need to learn how to pump backside in a barrel. Went up and over the falls and slammed hard on the knee deep bar. Water felt really warm, the sun was shining, and got a ton of waves for a 2 hour session. Cant fuck with that! Hopefully this little wind-swell sticks around all week.
Had a phone appt at 9:30, so I waited until after. Good call, caught the last of the rising morning tide. I surfed just south of PPP (which looked pretty good, was probably great at peak low tide), in the middle of the empty beach, which is usually the WORST place to surf. As I called yesterday, windswell filled in, bountiful L/R peaks everywhere. I caught 10 waves in my short 45 minute session. Rode my shortboar (7'4") today. Had no problems getting to my feet, no blown opportunities, unlike last weeks re-entrance to surfing. No barrels, no wacks, couple of top gouges though and one backside floater that actually had me in the air for a teeny bit, emphasis on the teeny. I am way out of tune on shorter boars, gonna take a while. Fog was gone, but looked like it's still lurking to the south. Water was brisk by the shore, super warm once outside, this is pretty typical. Stocked session!
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What a run of SW energy. I surfed sandbars, deepwater reef peaks, and shallow reef slabs, got barreled off my ass in both directions and made a few here and there, rode some big long mushburger walls on the singlefin I have for sale in the Classifieds forum in between crushing White Claws on the beach Saturday, backdoored a clean-exit dry-sucking slab pit on the same singlefin today before switching it out for my shortboard, and only managed to dry-dock myself on the shelf once. The size and direction on this last round was nearly perfect for a good section of the coast.
Surfed my hometown the last few days. Best session was on the 4th with some well overhead waves breaking way outside on the third reef during the early morning low tide (this usually only happens a couple times a year). Narrow takeoff zone with a constant stream of powerful, steep walls coming through. Only 3 guys out so I managed to catch a bunch, while the others were constantly out of position or fighting the washing machine on the inside. First time not wearing booties since October.
today had some really good waves occasionally but it was super hard to be in the right shifty position. got some good ones but missed some better ones. waters so warm
the surf keeps coming, lot of fun days around town mainly riding the 5 9 kenson pleasure pig and the 5'10 kenson twinzer swallow tail. yesterday my kid and niece wanted to surf so we went to a beachbreak and they messed around in the white water and i brought a my 6'2 standard kenson round pin thruster for the fast mainly closed beach break, got a few fun ones but mainly paddled around battling the rips trying to find the corners, came in ate some food under the umbrella watching the groms go and go and go, they were in the water for 4 hours, was around 70 degree water so easy to do, went back out for a body surf and had more fun doing that, dafins for the wins.... heading down in a few, looks smaller today but some mixed in nw to spice it up
fun, soft peaks with a THICK crowd. apparently this section of the local beach is now the best wave in San Diego.
Surfed the same spot as yesterday, ima call it tower 21's. Waves were much bigger than yesterday, all rights. Some serious chunks coming in, doubling up with refraction from nearby jetty flow. The very best waves breaking far outside of everybody, going unridden, some doing the "outside cresting effect" just for good measure. First time during my surf rehab that I felt like a real surfer. Second wave was probably my best, first wave back where I actually did what I consider a real bottom turn. My son who's in PT training says my muscle memory will come back pretty quick. SWEEET. The other wave of note was a deep one to full speed pumps for 50 yards, what made it special was the two guys who could've stuffed me but didn't, didn't even bring the mush down on me. That's always a stokaboka for me.
The water outside was olive green, super clear. Whereas the paddle back outs forced me through a whipped frenzy of sandy foam cordoned by opposing vortices spinning front and back of board different directions. I missed this stuff!
Had the peak all to my lonesome as the others opted for PPP. Eventually, many moved south and I moved a bit north, fark, I got 000'd at the end!
Side note, two border patrol vehicles lurking in the parking lot.
The water outside was olive green, super clear. Whereas the paddle back outs forced me through a whipped frenzy of sandy foam cordoned by opposing vortices spinning front and back of board different directions. I missed this stuff!
Had the peak all to my lonesome as the others opted for PPP. Eventually, many moved south and I moved a bit north, fark, I got 000'd at the end!
Side note, two border patrol vehicles lurking in the parking lot.