small and clean. beautiful morning. mostly sat around talking to people but managed one fast, wrapping turn.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
small and clean. took couple waves to get used to fling since been riding shortboars more. fling likes back foor pressure and the thing be ame a rocket. great boar. digging ny new one. wonder how a swallowtail one wud go
peaky small goodness this morning with a manageable crowd at desperation bar. perfect waves for the fuse.
Sad face around these parts. Time to maybe dust off and wax up the log.
Anyone think this Christina thing is going to turn into some waves for Socal?
Anyone think this Christina thing is going to turn into some waves for Socal?
I thought it was going to miss us... but i heard this morning on the news it will bring waves. Time will tell.
My guess re: Christina:
One to two day swell (Sunday and maybe into Monday) at most that pretty much only hits a few spots with any juice. And I have a bad feeling that those spots (mine included) are going to be packed.
One to two day swell (Sunday and maybe into Monday) at most that pretty much only hits a few spots with any juice. And I have a bad feeling that those spots (mine included) are going to be packed.
wasnt worth it today. at the right tide if it aint blown out should be worthy
Checked out PPP at 7:30, meh. Came home, ripped out three sprinkler valves, went to HD twice, half way finished the replacement. Decided it was time to go out. South of PPP there's two little "peaks", more like short sections of beach that are moderately less terrible than the rest of the beach. One I call Cracks, the other Boulders, it's debatable if these are even spots. Only breaks on days like today, really small nw windswell with moderate high tide. Heaps of rights with shoulders, literally nobody out except for couple of boogies here and there. I caught the last of the high tide, managed to snag a few shoulder high ones. Got to throw a large rooster spray off the top on one, I'd forgotten how fun those are. What makes this spot fun for me is the waves have a deceptive sidewinder aspect, the good ones you catch already angling down the line, where going fast enough to keep up is the challenge on the 9'0".
Left the house at 12:00 home by 1:25. Driving down, I was thinking how I was going to manage the surf schools that hang at Boulders. LOL, they're inbetween lessons from noon to one, STOCKED! Still, I couldn't get Motley Crue's song Red Hot out of my head. The tide peeked, my knee started to get sore, time to split. While walking back, just north of where I was, total mayhem of 50 little kids clobbering each other on the softies. I will get pics tomorrow.
Cool thing today, leaving the beach, a family was looking a bit "wth?, where's the beach?'" because the tide was pressing everybody up tight to the cliff and there didn't appear to be much room. I told homey this was peak tide and to go left, less people, he looked relieved and said thanks.
Didn't see any masks today, yesterday they were everywhere, hmmm?
mid morning lb session was really fun, only needed an hour an a half to reach exhaustion, caught so many waves as the tide filled in the small pack was waiting for the sets and most waves ran under them, my quarantine kenson 9'4 has already paid for itself with all of the fun i've had on it, and it is light so my jacked shoulder doesn't sing as much as usual when I carry a longboard down and wrestle it in the whitewater etc. trunked it and was fine
Like others said, small n clean. Early afternoon high tide at a little inside reef around the bend from a couple more crowded spots (lotsa longboards out). The lefts were running and connecting through and only one other dude out (amish beard, WTF) so traded waves for half hour. The inside on the left started getting shallow as the tide backed out, so I switched to the right. Shorter, but caught tons of little 3' waves by myself: most waves were just a steep drop, a few pumps and then a snap/wrap at the end, but got a couple quick crumbly coverups right off the takeoff. Had a blast on the R. Smoothie with new T1s+trailer (thanks @isurfcardiff ). Maybe a tiny bit too much fin, probably gonna try it with large fronts and the small T1 trailer. Sunny day, crystal clear, warm water; could see the reef and little schools of fishies. There's something about surfing in trunks on a nice day and getting plenty of easy waves without having to hassle.
Last edited:
Went down to the beach on Tuesday but it was small, Wednesday even smaller so I didn’t surf. Did some cleaning up in the parking lot and the small beach we paddle out from.
Dawned the regular today after seeing a pulse on the buoys. It was surprisingly good. Glassy, almost head high on the sets. Just the regulars out. Waves were fun on the Tokoro Moonfish. Could’ve rode my DD. As the tide filled in the sets got really slow. Waited forever to get one in. And of course the one behind the wave I took looked really good. Did some carves and cuttys.
Most interesting wave was a weird double up. Had to race the first section and there was a section in front but it was behind the one I was on. I hit a foam climb floater and got onto the section behind and it stood up the rest of the way while the wave I transferred from fizzled out.
Dawned the regular today after seeing a pulse on the buoys. It was surprisingly good. Glassy, almost head high on the sets. Just the regulars out. Waves were fun on the Tokoro Moonfish. Could’ve rode my DD. As the tide filled in the sets got really slow. Waited forever to get one in. And of course the one behind the wave I took looked really good. Did some carves and cuttys.
Most interesting wave was a weird double up. Had to race the first section and there was a section in front but it was behind the one I was on. I hit a foam climb floater and got onto the section behind and it stood up the rest of the way while the wave I transferred from fizzled out.
surfed a terrible section of the local with small waves offering little speed runs before going flat and the closing out. mostly lefts but somehow caught a few rights that stood up for a hit or carve.
looks like longboard time soon.
looks like longboard time soon.
Surfed my twin keel this morning in some wind swell. Fun little stomach high rollers.
I have such a love hate relationship with keels. They feel so good under my feet but it is so hard to adjust back to riding a thruster.
I have such a love hate relationship with keels. They feel so good under my feet but it is so hard to adjust back to riding a thruster.
Dawned the regular. Taz swell so long lulls but when the sets roll in they were really nice. Paddled the Vesso twin fin out. Board is fast and can get on rail. I almost ran over a kid on a longboard. Had to do a snap to avoid him. One of the regulars told me I thought you were going to send him in. Nice rail control. The kid said sorry right away and I was kind of in shock that I didn’t plow into him.
Went by the HIC in Haleiwa to get some deck pads for boards I have coming. Told Merv the manager to come surf town. He did. Came out with his adult daughters. They all speak Hawaiian. That was really cool. Merv is the Hawaiian in Hawaiian Island Creations. I ended up telling Merv and his daughter to go on a couple of really good ones. Caught a closeout to go in after Merv got a nugget. I was just happy to surf with him and that he got some good ones.
Went by the HIC in Haleiwa to get some deck pads for boards I have coming. Told Merv the manager to come surf town. He did. Came out with his adult daughters. They all speak Hawaiian. That was really cool. Merv is the Hawaiian in Hawaiian Island Creations. I ended up telling Merv and his daughter to go on a couple of really good ones. Caught a closeout to go in after Merv got a nugget. I was just happy to surf with him and that he got some good ones.
crumbly knee-waist rollers with the odd plus but . . . trunks + the 11'er = flawless victory.
and in between the 35 waves i caught in 90 minutes i was talking to a local guy and he's mentioning how he has been surfing different areas including Senor Sopa's zone. we were talking about swell directions that work down there and he says the only time he has ever seen a shark is in that zone. says there are reefs on the outside where lobster traps get set that have a lot of sea life.
all sounded very logical but then the flat earther/anti-mask part of my brain kicked in and i quickly realized that this guy and Senor Sopa must be connected somehow and were conspiring on this whole shark thing.
almost got me but i'm too smart - ha!
and in between the 35 waves i caught in 90 minutes i was talking to a local guy and he's mentioning how he has been surfing different areas including Senor Sopa's zone. we were talking about swell directions that work down there and he says the only time he has ever seen a shark is in that zone. says there are reefs on the outside where lobster traps get set that have a lot of sea life.
all sounded very logical but then the flat earther/anti-mask part of my brain kicked in and i quickly realized that this guy and Senor Sopa must be connected somehow and were conspiring on this whole shark thing.
almost got me but i'm too smart - ha!
Pretty small pickings this morning. Knee to waist high with an occasional chest high wave. Not much out there but got a couple slashes and floaters in where sections allowed. Sandbar went from 3 feet deep to 8 pretty fast with a nice corner. Wish there was a little more swell for that sandbar but one of last waves I got was on one of better waves that sucked over sandbar, slotted right into barrel for a couple seconds with a nice frothy view in a very low pigdog until it dumped into closeout.
Keeping fingers crossed we see some of that Christina swell tomorrow. Whatever sets there were had too much west in them to be forerunners. Still fun regardless.
Keeping fingers crossed we see some of that Christina swell tomorrow. Whatever sets there were had too much west in them to be forerunners. Still fun regardless.
10:00 @ retodd's super secret sand bar#1
meh, windy, crappy, warm water need more swell
lucked into a couple for a quick hit
meh, windy, crappy, warm water need more swell
lucked into a couple for a quick hit
Dawned the regular. It was small and windy. Got a couple of waves then paddled over to Rockpiles. Hoped the windswell would make it light up. It didn’t. Did manage to get a nugget but my hand slipped pushing up so I boogied the first section but somehow managed to stand up and hit the lip on the closeout.
When I went in couple of friends asked how was it. I usually try not to bum them out especially if they’re weekend warriors. I’ll give them a there’s some just gotta wait or tell them so-so. Today I gave them a one word review, “sh*tty.” Haha
When I went in couple of friends asked how was it. I usually try not to bum them out especially if they’re weekend warriors. I’ll give them a there’s some just gotta wait or tell them so-so. Today I gave them a one word review, “sh*tty.” Haha
drove a little ways away and setup day camp at the beach. paddled the three miles home. breakfast burrito, drink, hit the sand to paddle back to the day camp...to find it white capping. diagonalish headwind. figures. somehow i still made better time with no real swell assistance and the wind against me. burrito or cocktail pwoer?
Surfed my regular. Crappy wind swell but I was having fun. Things were going ok until some guy I've never seen before paddled out and immediately started hassling everyone. I was sitting way outside and took a right and it started to close out so I straightened out and went left for a bit and jumped off. This guy goes left on the same wave's closing out section directly towards me and then bashes the lip 6 inches from my face. A split second later and I would have been going to the hospital. I guess he didn't want to wait for the next crappy wind swell bump behind it. When I say crappy I mean 2 ft crumbling faces. Apparently you need to surf as aggressive as possible in these situations and not wait for your turn. He was clearly a very good surfer and knew exactly what he was doing. Called him out and he's like "what? I never hit you". Exchanged more bad words with the guy before he paddled away.
First time I've ever had that happen to me. Things happen in surfing, but I've never had someone do anything that blatant. I was pretty pissed and about the closest I've been to getting into a physical fight while surfing.
My biggest issue is this guy couldn't even man up and confront me. Every time I've confronted someone they always start back peddling. "I never hit you" is such a cop out. Homeboy knew what he was doing. He just didn't realize who he did it to. I would have had a lot more respect for him if the guy said "fuck you" instead of playing victim and paddling away. If you're going to be an asshole then you should own it and be prepared to deal with your actions.
First time I've ever had that happen to me. Things happen in surfing, but I've never had someone do anything that blatant. I was pretty pissed and about the closest I've been to getting into a physical fight while surfing.
My biggest issue is this guy couldn't even man up and confront me. Every time I've confronted someone they always start back peddling. "I never hit you" is such a cop out. Homeboy knew what he was doing. He just didn't realize who he did it to. I would have had a lot more respect for him if the guy said "fuck you" instead of playing victim and paddling away. If you're going to be an asshole then you should own it and be prepared to deal with your actions.
Last edited: