*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[bluengreen]

Back in the water Saturday, Sunday, Monday after a month off. Waves got progressively better and so did my surfing. Like WokeAF said, paddle was kind of a bitch with multiple short period swells running and waves cresting on the outside bar before unloading on the inside. Got some nice carves and lippers on Monday. Possibly even got a little air (does a few inches count?) while projecting off the lip of an oncoming section.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Surfed one of the better waves in the county today with 5 million of my frenz. It's sad cause 60 percent of them are just in the way but they're used to surfing crowds so they hassle and jockey only to blow waves.

some fun ones on the 6'2" crow but didn't need that much board. mayhem fins felt better than the JJF's

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls. It was surprisingly good. I thought it was going to be an off day but it was shoulder high plus, glassy and just the regular dawn patrol crew.

Took the Vesso twin fin out. Figured how to surf it vertically again. Been having so much fun flying through sections and doing a high speed roundhouse I kept blowing it trying to square up and go vert with all that speed. Just had to slow it down. Hassled Jerome for a lined up nugget. Could hear him laughing as I got under him. Saw a nice steep corner and bottom turned and hit it. Came down and did it again. Turned on the turbo and did a wrap inside. I told Jerome I did two turns before you would’ve even stood up. He just shook his head at me. Haha.

 

[oeste858]

Too drained this am, but the wind stayed down. With work piling up, I just had enough time for a quick lunchtime 30min. Local reefs were packed (maybe SBD was out there) and serving up mushburgers that hardly seemed worth it. Nobody out at mid-tide PB Point so I sprinted out there. 2' crumbly runners off the boil. Nothing great but nice to fly solo. Had to be patient and got about 7-8 little waves, a couple long ones where I connected sections to the inside. Continue to be impressed with @MrSteve 's Superchunk (see Concave Deck thread). With its wide nose it catches waves like a midlength; lightweight + small enough to fling around & break fins out; a couple pumps and I was able race around fat sections. 5'6" perfect size, feet always in the right place. This is the potential that the 5'9 ASQ I had, hinted at but it just seemed oversized so never all came together. The shallower swallowtail on this turns much better than the funky acute one on the ASQ too.

 

[gbg]

Out of action since last Saturday. I had a good run in May but I got tossed on a quick little left Saturday and landed out on the flats right on my left side. Besides bruising or maybe even cracking a couple of my ribs, I strained my neck and back muscles. Been icing. 4 days I needed help even getting out of bed. Chiro got me back in place yesterday and got ultrasound on my ribs. Probably another week until I can surf. Between my snapped tibia, meningitis and other various illnesses and infections, hyperextended knee and now this, IB always gets me.

 

[Waterlogged05]

Surfed last friday and it had some size but was slow and choppy.
Connected a few that I didn't think I could but couldn't get a good turn to save my life.
Lots of water moving, tons of kooks out for holiday weekend.
Brown water, lots of nasty crap.

Went out again Monday at the pier which used to be better but has been kinda weird since hurricane harvey.
Got there to a big crowd around 10:30am and water was nice and green/blue.
Like magic, half the crowd went in, im assuming to go do memorial day shenanigans.
Consistent Chest high, clean, but closing out so you had to race the section to get a smack or two.
Wasn't the most powerful but more organized than Ive seen in a few months. Surfed until body no longer works.
Driver 2.0 shreds, especially backside.
Definitely want to try less upright fins, I finally got what another user was describing as the lack of drive or whatever the fook its called with the k2.1s

 

[Waterlogged05]

Never had a boar accelerate like this when I push off the tail, I might be a low tail rocker guy once I get fully dialed in

 

[Aruka]

Inconsistent waist high dribbles a few days ago. First couple waves were fun little runners on the Fling and then it lulled out hard and by the time the next flurry came I could hardly surf. Frozen toes. Water was absolutely frigid and that was three days ago. It's been blowing non-stop since so it's only getting colder. There are waves today but I'm waiting for the tide to fill in. Not sure if I have more than one session in me.

Waterlogged, stoked you are liking the driver. I have just been running the DHD L's in mine since I got it and I keep meaning to play with fins but I can't really find fault with this combo. I might try the TP1's to see how a more upright template goes but honestly it doesn't feel like my turns are too drawn out or anything that would make me want to mess with it. I guess it could be a little looser in small waves but I haven't really been riding it unless it's pretty decent.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

inconsistent racers on the fuse. a lot of sitting in water that was at least 8 degrees colder than 7 miles up the coast the day before. couple ok lefts, one good right. overall crappy sesh

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls. The Lanai buoy was showing 18 second energy so I brought the Tokoro X2. Waves were fun, low tide which put a bump on it but cleaned up as the tide filled in. Been in a bad mood because of a house we’ve been working on for awhile. The finish carpenters have been blowing it. And that bad mood carried into my surf session. I burned Gregg on a good one and it didn’t even give me the joy it usually does. But I let one of the carpenters have it in front of the homeowner and that felt good. She couldn’t go off on them cause she wants them to wrap things up but she had told me I could sound them. I told her sorry for losing my temper that never happens and she just laughed.

Oh on my second to last wave there was a donkey on a longboard that got in a couple of my friends way. So they were complaining about it. I got a set aimed straight at him, looked him in the eyes and sprayed him. Got my friend Barak too, collateral damage. More swell on the way. Feel much better after telling the carpenter what I thought of their work. I’ll be able to enjoy the next session, well as much as a grumpy old man can. Haha.

 

[Aruka]

Ice cold water and super strong side shore wind blowing up the face of fast running left handers. Perfect waves for making me feel bad about my surfing. Felt like I was always stuck behind the knuckle and only managed to get out onto the bumpy face for a turn a handful of times. Oh and the lulls were soul crushing.

 

[Muscles]

Been surfing my Fever a lot to get a better feel of it. I am actually really surprised at its ability in the small stuff. I know CI team guys say they ride it right above groveler conditions. So I tried it out and it does feel good in small stuff. Obviously, it doesn't perform like a true grovel board would. But it is nice to know it can handle small stuff and my session won't suck if I pick the wrong board. It really does feel like a toned down Proton. No complaints with the Fever. Glad I bought it.

Really stoked at the month of May. Some fun north swells coming through. Can't complain when it's almost June.

My XTR ghost gets here Tuesday. Can't wait to see how it goes. It is by far the most expensive board I've ever owned. lol

 

[Aruka]

Evening redemption. Wind was still up when I arrived but I paddled out on faith that it would calm down for the evening. After about twenty minutes it started to fade and swing a little more off shore. Peaky high tide combo swell nuggies. Mostly lefts but my best waves were the two rights that walled up that ran all the way through the inside. Fling as a quad felt like the right call.

 

[racer1]

I burned Gregg on a good one and it didn’t even give me the joy it usually does.

I love when Gregg burns me because that means I get a pass on the next good one that comes when we're both in position.

 

[teeroi]

I love when Gregg burns me because that means I get a pass on the next good one that comes when we're both in position.

Couple days ago I got a wave and must’ve fell or jumped off at the end. I was reeling my board to me and getting back on to paddle back out. I see Gregg on a set. Big bs hack then he hits the closeout and straightens out to go in. He sees me and aims right at me. He later says it was to spray me. He catches a rail on a bump and he’s coming right over me. I bail my board and dive under. I pop up and yell fucking assh*le I’m going to remember that. Gregg puts up his hand as he’s proning in like a claim.

I posted about it in our FS group ig chat. And told him he better bring his helmet next time Big Bowl breaks. So I’ve been burning him at least once a session. Haha.

@racer1 I’ll include you in the ig group message and you can see the rewind vid.

 

[obslop]

current and closeouts; meh

 

[sdsurfrat]

current and closeouts; meh

pumping and dumping...
Oside or Noside

 

[paunch23]

Geeez after two months+ without surf. mostly closing out head highish waves on offer. session was no good. Only caught like 2 waves. Need to get back at it. Well, At least I got to paddle and Some exercise.

 

[Oceanslide]

Surfed one of the breaks in the Trestles complex yesterday for the first time. Unbelievably crowded
and a bit jumbled with early wind, but I was able to pick off about 5 really long and fast rights and a bunch
more of lesser quality on the DK keel fish. Love that board but not the easiest for me backside. Would've
been so stoked if the wave was a left. Mid-morning today at a reef break that was also very busy, but sat wide
and got like 6 or 7 super fun left swingers in the HH range on the 7'6" HPTC twinzer. Board was perfect for the spot
and conditions. Easy in, solid off the bottom or on a high speed run, and super fun to put on a rail for fs carving
turns all the way to the inside, all in about 1 hour. Had a random ask me about the board and commented
on how well it looked like it was working. Super fun time. Dead battery when I came in was the only bummer.

 

[retodd]

Ncsd had some fun for me .. been a while since I hit this section of reef but it welcomed me with open arms . 4 good sets came right to me and surfed them well on Frezzy's old grinder .
Interesting mix of folks , best surfer was a goofy foot teenager just blowing up on all the inside tweeners .