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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Wade Tokoro texted me that one of my favorite spots was fun and they’ll be going tomorrow. Only thing the gate is locked so we’d have to risk parking off the highway and walking in. He also made sure I have a mask. They donated their unopened inventory to the local hospital.
Chanced the highway parking and potential break in and met up with Wade at the spot he texted me about.
He said it had a better direction yesterday but today is bigger. There were a lot of waves, a little overhead, light wind but some bumps. First wave got a wedgy double up. Got in easy but it stood up and I tried to knife and stall into the double up. I didn’t set my rail and my tail slid out. I got punished inside. Had to duck dive a couple dozen waves breaking on the shallow reef with the current pushing me back into the impact zone.
There were just 4 of us out so without even discussing it we stayed way more than 6 feet away and traded waves. Each of us moving up to the outside as the guy on the peak got a wave. But the inside double ups were better.
Last two waves were really good. Got a wedge take off on both of them. The last one was really steep. Squared off the bottom turned into a layback hack. Rode them to the inside and smashed the closeout. Got complimented from Wade on those rides. I told him I’m glad he got to see me ride the X2 cause he always wants to make sure the boards he makes are working as intended.
Wade said they’re slow but Kerry cut some boards and he might go into the shop and finish a few blanks. Mostly he’s been surfing a couple times a day.
Theres waves forecasted that should be good for my NS regular spot but it might be crowded. Might just chance the same spot tomorrow.
He said it had a better direction yesterday but today is bigger. There were a lot of waves, a little overhead, light wind but some bumps. First wave got a wedgy double up. Got in easy but it stood up and I tried to knife and stall into the double up. I didn’t set my rail and my tail slid out. I got punished inside. Had to duck dive a couple dozen waves breaking on the shallow reef with the current pushing me back into the impact zone.
There were just 4 of us out so without even discussing it we stayed way more than 6 feet away and traded waves. Each of us moving up to the outside as the guy on the peak got a wave. But the inside double ups were better.
Last two waves were really good. Got a wedge take off on both of them. The last one was really steep. Squared off the bottom turned into a layback hack. Rode them to the inside and smashed the closeout. Got complimented from Wade on those rides. I told him I’m glad he got to see me ride the X2 cause he always wants to make sure the boards he makes are working as intended.
Wade said they’re slow but Kerry cut some boards and he might go into the shop and finish a few blanks. Mostly he’s been surfing a couple times a day.
Theres waves forecasted that should be good for my NS regular spot but it might be crowded. Might just chance the same spot tomorrow.
Teeroi, this journal may just become a back and forth between you and Aruka for the foreseeable future. 
Sorry. I think if we have an exponential increase in infections the mayor may rethink keeping the ocean open.Teeroi, this journal may just become a back and forth between you and Aruka for the foreseeable future.
Ive debated with myself about continuing to post about my sessions so if you guys think I’m rubbing it in I’ll stop. Been trying to stay positive and stay out of the politics forum or let non Hawaiians get under my skin telling us what’s wrong with Hawaii. Erbbers posting we should stay home with a full body condom on and the other side telling us to fight the power. Just going to try and stay in my lane.
I’m super lucky that I’m still working and able to surf.
Hell no, I'd love to hear about others' sessions, personally. Hopefully I'm not too out of shape to surf once this
BS ban gets lifted. Get it while you can.
I'm worried about this as well. There was fun waves at my local the past 3-4 days and it was a pure sh!t show. So many people and cars and groups surfing. All we need is a few Karens emailing the gov/mayor with photos and it's over.
I'm sure there are tons of sharky out of the way places along the Central Coast of CA open for surfing.
Surfed the same spot as yesterday. Got there just a little earlier and waited for a sliver of light so I could see when I walked in.
It was a lot smaller and got pretty crowded. Yesterday there was 4 of us for 2 hours. Today there was about 12. I knew everyone except two younger guys that live nearby. Everyone kinda stay apart and minded their manners but it was a little irritating at first. I guess you can see our cars on the side of the road and figure there’s surf. With that crowd was thinking I may as well have hit my regular NS spot. It’s bigger, not sure about the wind though, it’s been light and swirling.
Rode the X2 again and mostly just cutbacks and snaps. Best wave was my last one cause I read it perfect. Took off on the outside and faded right, bottom turned left. Waited for it to stand up and pumped through the double up and laid into a full rail wrap. Straightened out and went in.
Wade Tokoro was out again. He just sits inside and kills the little double ups. Someone from here PMed me about getting in touch with him and working out a custom board. I told Wade an erbber might reach out to him. He said now is a good time he’s slow and has time to answer emails. I have mixed feelings about it. Of course I’d be happy to get people in touch with Wade or Kerry their boards are well thought out and well made. But I also think now it’s especially important to support your local shapers. And the local surf shops when they re-open.
It was a lot smaller and got pretty crowded. Yesterday there was 4 of us for 2 hours. Today there was about 12. I knew everyone except two younger guys that live nearby. Everyone kinda stay apart and minded their manners but it was a little irritating at first. I guess you can see our cars on the side of the road and figure there’s surf. With that crowd was thinking I may as well have hit my regular NS spot. It’s bigger, not sure about the wind though, it’s been light and swirling.
Rode the X2 again and mostly just cutbacks and snaps. Best wave was my last one cause I read it perfect. Took off on the outside and faded right, bottom turned left. Waited for it to stand up and pumped through the double up and laid into a full rail wrap. Straightened out and went in.
Wade Tokoro was out again. He just sits inside and kills the little double ups. Someone from here PMed me about getting in touch with him and working out a custom board. I told Wade an erbber might reach out to him. He said now is a good time he’s slow and has time to answer emails. I have mixed feelings about it. Of course I’d be happy to get people in touch with Wade or Kerry their boards are well thought out and well made. But I also think now it’s especially important to support your local shapers. And the local surf shops when they re-open.
Just a few steps from my house
All beaches closed here
Off shore winds Wednesday , thrusday and Friday with waves
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Crazy times
I feel supporting any shaper who is part of the custom process is who we should suport.
Tokoros work very well , and he has those rad aus blanks + good glass shop suport = excellent product . this is the future now
Keep posting it up Teeroy, glad someone is able to still be a surfer
I feel supporting any shaper who is part of the custom process is who we should suport.
Tokoros work very well , and he has those rad aus blanks + good glass shop suport = excellent product . this is the future now
Keep posting it up Teeroy, glad someone is able to still be a surfer
as long as HI doesn't close the beaches, keep surfing and we'll live vicariously through you. Luckily it's been pretty flat/crappy around South SD recently and they've ramped up enforcement the past week so most spots staying empty. Pretty surreal. What a wild time in history we are living through.
I haven't been surfing a lot just a few sessions here and there. Conditions have been mostly crummy with lots of rain and cold spring winds. The state parks are closed so most of the spots I surf are almost impossible to get to without crossing parks land. We found a way to get to one of our spots without crossing state park land but you have to park way down the road and hike quite far to get to the break.
I did have a couple really good sessions like a week and a half ago and then we got some decent wind swell peaks today. I've been riding a 6-1 Timmy Patterson Stock-ed and a 6'4" Mayhem Driver 2.0. Both feeling pretty good but it definitely feels like I'm still figuring them out. I also got a session on my 6-9 Simon Anderson Mollusc Robo. The waves were big and crappy but the board felt amazing. Like cheating.
It feels kind of weird to surf during a pandemic to be honest. It's good to have something, a reason to be outside and get exercise but the joy it usually brings me feels a bit tempered. Stay safe everyone.
I did have a couple really good sessions like a week and a half ago and then we got some decent wind swell peaks today. I've been riding a 6-1 Timmy Patterson Stock-ed and a 6'4" Mayhem Driver 2.0. Both feeling pretty good but it definitely feels like I'm still figuring them out. I also got a session on my 6-9 Simon Anderson Mollusc Robo. The waves were big and crappy but the board felt amazing. Like cheating.
It feels kind of weird to surf during a pandemic to be honest. It's good to have something, a reason to be outside and get exercise but the joy it usually brings me feels a bit tempered. Stay safe everyone.
Dawned Bowls. It was small and glassy before a front moved in. Then it turned side onshore and I went in. Waves were fun while it lasted. Took out the twin fin. That board is fun to ride. Got a couple of figure 8 cutbacks. Last wave was when it got mushy but it was lined up. Board just flew hit the section breaking in front of me and fin drifted right over to hit the close out. Proned out and went in.
We’ll see what happens this week. This past weekend there were waves all over and the weather was nice. Sunny, light winds. But people were blowing it. Sunbathing, hanging out on the beach. Smoking weed, drinking. If the infection rate goes up by a lot I think the ocean is going to be off limits.
On a funny note while I was paddling out I saw my friend Kyoo riding his lb at Rockpiles. I told Jeannie and the crew out I thought of a new nickname for Kyoo. Kyoo-vid cause is surfing is sick. Everyone laughed. I wanted to tell Kyoo but he beat me in and split. His laughter at my jokes always brightens my day.
We’ll see what happens this week. This past weekend there were waves all over and the weather was nice. Sunny, light winds. But people were blowing it. Sunbathing, hanging out on the beach. Smoking weed, drinking. If the infection rate goes up by a lot I think the ocean is going to be off limits.
On a funny note while I was paddling out I saw my friend Kyoo riding his lb at Rockpiles. I told Jeannie and the crew out I thought of a new nickname for Kyoo. Kyoo-vid cause is surfing is sick. Everyone laughed. I wanted to tell Kyoo but he beat me in and split. His laughter at my jokes always brightens my day.
East side break, that's well known but restricted. I won't say names, but when I say restricted I mean Federal land. It started cranking on Saturday afternoon with the straight north swell long period swell.
Pushed myself to take out my 6'0 twin keel in DOH long period swell just to see how it would handle. Paddled into a right hand screamer and found that twin keels will handle anything you're willing to try and surf. Waves pulsed up so much that it was getting hard to paddle into them on that short of a board. I'm 6'2 and 220 so a 6'0 board is fairly small for someone my size. Still caught a few more but then got creamed by one when I mistimed it. Fun times.
Pushed myself to take out my 6'0 twin keel in DOH long period swell just to see how it would handle. Paddled into a right hand screamer and found that twin keels will handle anything you're willing to try and surf. Waves pulsed up so much that it was getting hard to paddle into them on that short of a board. I'm 6'2 and 220 so a 6'0 board is fairly small for someone my size. Still caught a few more but then got creamed by one when I mistimed it. Fun times.
Yeah, I've been pleasantly surprised the past year to discover how much I love a twin keel in good surf. Guess I bought into the popular misconception they are for grovel/mushy waves.I agree.
I'll probably become one of those guys that strictly rides twin keels and try to do my best Ryan Burch impression.
I actually find that a twin keel isn't that great of a groveler, I mean it'll work, but it gets better as the waves get better. kneeboarders built them to ride slabs. because of the volume people just assume they are small wave boards.