*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,374
113
eastside oahu
There’s been waves here from last week. I stayed out after bouncing my knee offthe reef on the big day. The stiffness and swelling finally subsided but I was still worried. I put some soft wheels on an old skateboard and followed my kid on his bike around the block. It felt good to push around so I knew my knee could handle surfing.

Here’s a side note. We were almost to the last corner before the house and a neighbor girl and her friend were outside in the driveway looking at her car. She had on a tank top no bra. Full side boob action. I was trying not to stare but they were almost fully exposed. Twentyish, Asian, b or c cup, pretty girl. I caught up to my boy and told him let’s go around the block one more time. I flew around the block but they had gone inside by then. Haha.

Anyway I dawned Bowls. Been concerned about breaking the stay at home order but surfing is allowed. Just can’t hang at the beach, no sunbathing, no picnics and no bbq.

Waves were head high and a little bigger but lully. South east swell, dead winds, flat lower tide all morning. Heard Racers spot much bigger. Took the Tokoro Moonfish out.

First wave got a set and bottom turned and went straight up. Right in front of Wade Tokoro. Got a hoot from him. Stoke.Ed. Always good to rip a turn in front of your shaper and get a hoot. Waves were slow but as the wind turned side onshore it pulsed. I stayed out way too long but it felt good to surf after missing a week of south swells. Supposed to be a north west this weekend too. Glad my knee is fine and surfing isn’t banned.

Hope you guys are staying safe.
 
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bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,769
4,651
113
SF x Encinitas
9 feet at 8 seconds felt pretty weak after a season of long period swells. Took the CI Fever out, thinking the waves would be better than they were. After surfing guns and volume forward shortboards all season, I struggled on the Fever. More rocker and less width/volume in the nose fucked with my pop-ups. The board felt like it wanted to rock back instead of drive forward when I got to my feet. Cracked some decent turns once I steadied myself and got some speed, but overall this session was confirmation that I should stick to volume forward craft. I prefer the speed, glide and stability, and they give me as much "performance" as I need. Time to put this puppy on Craigslist!
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,099
9,146
113
Central California
9 feet at 8 seconds felt pretty weak after a season of long period swells. Took the CI Fever out, thinking the waves would be better than they were. After surfing guns and volume forward shortboards all season, I struggled on the Fever. More rocker and less width/volume in the nose fucked with my pop-ups. The board felt like it wanted to rock back instead of drive forward when I got to my feet. Cracked some decent turns once I steadied myself and got some speed, but overall this session was confirmation that I should stick to volume forward craft. I prefer the speed, glide and stability, and they give me as much "performance" as I need. Time to put this puppy on Craigslist!
I didn't like the Fever. The description made it sound like I would really click with it. Riding it was a different story.
 
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jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,099
9,146
113
Central California
Tough name for a board these days. I wonder if they’ll change it. They could call it the Favre (pronounced Fahv ruh)
My delicate sensibilities aren't offended by a board named "The Fever."

I think we'd be getting pretty soft if we were.

Now if they named a model "The China Flu Flyer" or "the Covid Cruiser", then I could see the outrage.
 
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kidfury

Duke status
Oct 14, 2017
24,940
10,684
113
Fun but crowded waves in Oside today. Very enjoyable. Hope we get to keep surfing. I know it’s controversial
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,585
765
113
Fun but crowded waves in Oside today. Very enjoyable. Hope we get to keep surfing. I know it’s controversial

Beat It kookfury.
Your advertising is not going to help with these crowds much...
 

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
Beat It kookfury.
Your advertising is not going to help with these crowds much...
don't matter; very thick crowds up here.

fun today.

i think oceanside goes on lock down soon though. not because a lot of people are surfing up here but because they are driving up together and then walking down to the water in groups of 3-4.

the city does not want to see that. easy solution - no more surfing and beach completely closed.

get it while you can my friends.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,707
2,342
113
Oceanside, CA
FAAAAARRRRKKKKK!!!! :-(

Oceanside Issues Full Beach Closure
April 3, 2020
BEACH CLOSURE

The City of Oceanside has determined that a full beach closure is necessary to enforce the San Diego County Health Order dated April 2, 2020. Oceanside Beaches are ordered closed to the public for all activities, including water activities such as surfing, effective midnight tonight, April 3, 2020, until further notice. The Strand will also be closed for walking/driving, except to residents living there in order to access their property. Oceanside beach parking lots are already closed.
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,585
765
113
don't matter; very thick crowds up here.

fun today.

i think oceanside goes on lock down soon though. not because a lot of people are surfing up here but because they are driving up together and then walking down to the water in groups of 3-4.

the city does not want to see that. easy solution - no more surfing and beach completely closed.

get it while you can my friends.


Maybe if you guys were not blowing it out so fucking hard it would have lasted.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,374
113
eastside oahu
Sorry to hear about that Oceanside crew. Surfing as a social thing has always bothered me. It’s ironic because all my friends either surf or skate. But I rarely ride down to a surf spot with a crew. Unless it’s pretty big doh or bigger I love surfing solo. Can’t skate solo seems like practice nowadays.

Dawned Bowls again. Smaller than yesterday but really clean. Almost head high on sets. Kinda slow and a little bit of East in the swell that Bowls doesn’t like. Rode the Tokoro X2. That board is really fun. Got a couple of vert smashes and drawn out carves. Even got a barrel I made. Paddled over to Rockpiles to catch a couple before I went in. It’s been really crowded out there. The parking lot has been open so lots of randoms. Luckily Bowls has a heavier rep so most of the donkeys tend to stay toward Rockpiles.

The governor and mayor are suggesting wearing masks in public now but so far keeping the ocean access open. Limited lifeguards on duty. Only the emergency response crew and management are working which is shot sighted. Good thing surfers are the best life guards after professionals. The city and country of Honolulu treats our life guards very poorly.
 
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obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
Maybe if you guys were not blowing it out so fucking hard it would have lasted.
oceanslide gave me crap on that too.

don' think it matters honestly. the list of open/closed beaches is all over the news.

and besides. people's lives are getting DESTROYED. bankruptcies and foreclosures are coming.

if they can forget about what's happening for a few hours while they surf i could care less if i catch a few less waves.
 

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
FAAAAARRRRKKKKK!!!! :-(

Oceanside Issues Full Beach Closure
April 3, 2020
BEACH CLOSURE

The City of Oceanside has determined that a full beach closure is necessary to enforce the San Diego County Health Order dated April 2, 2020. Oceanside Beaches are ordered closed to the public for all activities, including water activities such as surfing, effective midnight tonight, April 3, 2020, until further notice. The Strand will also be closed for walking/driving, except to residents living there in order to access their property. Oceanside beach parking lots are already closed.
yup. there it is.

time to start skating the curb i guess.