Waist high on a short fat Asian is probably knee high for blond Californian Demi-gods.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Anyway...
Got a call yesterday from my friend who lives at my regular NS spot. He said it was junk. And another friend said he surfed Pupukea on Saturday and it sucked. So that fear of missing out was squashed.
Dawned Bowls. Just trying to stay in paddling shape in case it gets good or I surf ns. It was really small. I was happy to get on rail and was going to go in after a half hour. But right after Kyle went in it pulsed. I was kicking myself cause I was too deep on an almost head high wave. But they kept coming for the next 20 minutes. Got a couple nugs. Best one the wave broke a little in front of me but I squared off and went straight up and on the re- entry had to hold the rail but caught up to the open face and that vexing part where the wall goes straight I was thinking about it and hit the close out and rode out. Turned into a fun little sesssion.
Got a call yesterday from my friend who lives at my regular NS spot. He said it was junk. And another friend said he surfed Pupukea on Saturday and it sucked. So that fear of missing out was squashed.
Dawned Bowls. Just trying to stay in paddling shape in case it gets good or I surf ns. It was really small. I was happy to get on rail and was going to go in after a half hour. But right after Kyle went in it pulsed. I was kicking myself cause I was too deep on an almost head high wave. But they kept coming for the next 20 minutes. Got a couple nugs. Best one the wave broke a little in front of me but I squared off and went straight up and on the re- entry had to hold the rail but caught up to the open face and that vexing part where the wall goes straight I was thinking about it and hit the close out and rode out. Turned into a fun little sesssion.
Went to a hard to access spot on friday afternoon for the glass off, wasn't the only one but not too crowded. I heard one guy, completely serious as far I could tell, make fun of another crew for coming in a group 4.... when he had shown up with a group of 3. Either way, finally got the rust off from a few weeks of not having time to surf. Tried out new fins in my banjo and got some really fun turns.
Rough few weeks here. No swell in the gulf and onshore for 4 weeks straight on the south coast. Last 2 Sunday’s have lined up nicely though. Last week chest high fun, this weekend gone 10ft + faces and pumping. Tried the Nano with quads as I just got a set of EA’s for another board. I definitely like it better as a thruster but backhand the quads actually worked pretty well. Got sick of paddling the little Nano around with all that water moving around so went in for water/snack and headed back out on the 6’10 McNeill twin. With a severely cramping tricep I still managed to get some well OH bombs. Drop, drawn out bottom turn to high line then just tee off all the way down the line onto the inside. The thing just has so much control at speed and surfs way shorter than 6’10. Good times
Waves were a little funky but there is still a bit of a sand bar at my local. I kind of struggled yesterday riding the 5-9 and battling the current from hell so today I took the 9-6 Stretch out and had a blast. I never ride a longboard but I really had a lot of fun, caught about a hundred waves and ended up surfing for 3-4 hours.
Hard to hunt down the corners, but fun waves on the Shadow yesterday. I haven't ridden it nearly enough
and had a few fun runners with really solid end-section bashes.
Thought today was going to be much better than it was. Residual windswell wonkiness made for very few
waves that held up long with decent shape. Couple fun rights and mostly closeout lefts on the DK keel.
Both boards felt great and it was nice to have mostly clean conditions with some daylight. F this impending
time change.
and had a few fun runners with really solid end-section bashes.
Thought today was going to be much better than it was. Residual windswell wonkiness made for very few
waves that held up long with decent shape. Couple fun rights and mostly closeout lefts on the DK keel.
Both boards felt great and it was nice to have mostly clean conditions with some daylight. F this impending
time change.
Looked kinda sick when I pulled up for a quick surf before dark. Ended up being pretty slow but I got a couple fun ones on the JS. The sunset was a stunner. Water is as frigid as ever and the air was even colder.
surfed thursday, friday, monday, tuesday, Friday was the best day for me, head high sets, long rippable rights and i'm really liking my kenson double wing swallow twinzer, did some big rail turns and got going fast on a bunch of waves, felt like myself again, then monday in the wind with lots of swell but howling , went to the point and there were some surprisingly fun waves but the current was constant and getting caught inside was tiring,i was feeling a little under the weather but it was my birthday so i made sure the first wave of my 54th spin around the globe (yes its a globe bohter) was a long right with multiple cut backs and off the tops, i believe daily dale said you have to set the tone for the year on your first birthday wave so mission accomplished. last night was fun too, but then my shoulder was aching really bad all night despite ice and ibuprofen, 44 years of constant paddling has taken its toll. good thing is you don't feel it once you are up and riding....
Back injury had me out of the water for a week and a half. Went for a paddle on the south end of the beach this morning before work and took some extra foam (6'8 Rusty Blackbird). Lots of warble from the high tide and some strong onshores the past few days. Could tell that with the gentle offshores and dropping tide, it was going to get better through the morning. Shoulders already weakening, but not too bad. Sore back when duck diving and a little stiff popping up. Got one lined up right and took a cruisey approach: highline into a swooping bottom turn and a mellow carve. Got spooked by a huge pod of dolphins a few yards away. Got one more that fizzled but took me to the inside bar. Feeling more and more like spring up here with the chunky windswell (8 feet and 9 seconds) and onshore flow. Still nice to be back in the water.
Fun waves after work today. The wind was supposed to blow but it stayed pretty light and with a nice angle to it. Rode the Stretch longboard at first. Tried it as a quad with the stretch buzz fins and it felt okay but not great. Kind of tracky feeling. Put some AMK twin keels in for a laugh and it actually felt really good. As the tide filled in the waves got better so I went in, had a snack and grabbed the Puddle Jumper which I haven't ridden in a while. Board felt great. Got a few really fun bowled up rights that allowed for multiple little shwacks. The waves turned on for an hour or so as the tide hit a sweet spot and then the current shifted onto the peak and started tearing it up. I should have gone in right away but I toughed it out battling the current trying for a good one which never really came. Sunset was amazing again.
Seen some pics online of fun waves in Socal the last week, but I must've just missed it. Every time I've been out was pretty crappy waves between tide, swell, and wind. As Oceanslide said above: wonkiness. 40 min session Wed late morning at the local reef: chest-high but it was all crossed up and only 3 guys out- and if there's <10 guys out here, you know it must be bad. Left the twin keel in the car and took out the Tomo SP2 thinking it might be better in the funky wedges and quick corners out there. Couple short rights with a drop and then it mushburgered out and backed off before the inside. Came from behind the peak on a couple lefts which gave me a longer wall at least and space for 2-3 turns. Pretty mediocre, but it was a beautiful day with clear water and the highlight: a pod of 12 dolphins cruised though the lineup just 30 ft from me an another guy. Always fun to see, despite that initial moment of panic when a grey fin suddenly breaches the water nearby.
Quiver problems: Wife is reorganizing the garage and finally counting the boards. Need to get rid of 2-3 boards, as I'm eyeing a new quad at the local shop. It happens to be exactly what I would order from this SD shaper, so I figure I can save myself the 8-12 week wait.
Quiver problems: Wife is reorganizing the garage and finally counting the boards. Need to get rid of 2-3 boards, as I'm eyeing a new quad at the local shop. It happens to be exactly what I would order from this SD shaper, so I figure I can save myself the 8-12 week wait.
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Time to start doubling up boards in one board bag
i surfed small, crappy, inconsistent/too steep swell yesterday at a reef i thought would have something. didn't have much, cold, and just weak. icing on top: i managed to absolutely devastate my right leg with friendly fire - my own damn board absolutely hammered my right calf when i got lazy on the kickout of a cruddy mushy wave and it flipped back at me. stupid, lazy, and i'll be sure to post pics of the yellow and green once the bruise settles in.
Is this for plausible deniability?
So you can tell the jury at your trial that she must have slipped and fallen. It was just a terrible, terrible accident and in no way connected to the fifteen custom boards you have on order or any kind of sizeable insurance payout.
Rain all morning and then the clouds parted and the sun shined around noon. Expected it to be big and blown out when I checked the cam, but was pleasantly surprised. Solid 2x overhead on the sets, onshore but decent shape on the dropping tide, and only a handful of guys (and a girl!) out around middle beach. Got pretty pounded on the inside bar, but once I got through the sprint outside was clean thanks to the 7'6 (7'0 would have been perfect, but I don't have one), which got me over an incoming set. Couple of hairy drops on my backhand and racy inside bowls that allowed for speedbanks and carves. As I walked back up the beach, wife and kid were building a sandcastle. Pure stoke!
Couple clean burgers north of Kentoland, 2-3+ combo/mixed swell just making it through the tide, glad I got a few before the flushing comes. 6-2 twinzer with slightly larger fin template