last min dawn patrol effort. fun waves couple good lefts with multiple carves and a couple nice bs roundies on the shadow. great boar
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Low tide combo swell with offshore winds. Gonna be a good morning.
Inconsistent but got some fun ones. Winter of lefts I guess.
Probably the two best backside hacks ever done on the GX today on teh same wave. Really felt good.
Probably the two best backside hacks ever done on the GX today on teh same wave. Really felt good.
Never really got to try the demo carbon Astropop in decent waves last week, but got a 3' day Monday that was enough to know it wasn't quite the board I was looking for. Pyzel describes it as more of a step-down groveler- and it may be for JJF- but it was too thin (for me) and could've be more of a decent-wave quad for me. Fun snaps/reos, but I kept wishing it had a bit more of the Astro/fish float & glide to it in those small waves. The carbon fiber build was so light and felt good under foot, but for the price, I'd want a shape I knew I liked and something I could ride 8/10 days around here. Gonna keep talking with JT on other options.
Fun swell here, but yesterday was just one of those days. Felt out of rhythm and the local reef was packed: 2-3 guys on every good wave and I only got 3 waves in 45 min. Theres a crew of lifers that sit outside on bigger boards year-round and get the sets. I usually try to sit just inside/wide of them and pick off the scraps/misses/outswingers. Further inside that is like thunderdome, with frothing groms & twentysomethings, plus randos. The waves here are usually better than other spots around, but you know you're giving up quantity on these crowded days hoping to get a couple good ones. Best wave I caught was a HH right behind an older local- he was far enough out in front of me, that he wasn't really in my way and I managed 5 FS carves that felt good.
Waves were bigger than I expected but I had 5'10" CC Mescaline with me. Only tried it 3x so far, but feels a bit small for me. I definitely struggled to get into waves, and wished I had a board that paddled better. It is fast down the line but not quite sure what else it does well. It surfed fine, easy to whip around, but I haven't found a wave that it really lit up... yet. Anyway, bit of a frustrating sesh with the crowd as I hate having to deal with the aggros.
Fun swell here, but yesterday was just one of those days. Felt out of rhythm and the local reef was packed: 2-3 guys on every good wave and I only got 3 waves in 45 min. Theres a crew of lifers that sit outside on bigger boards year-round and get the sets. I usually try to sit just inside/wide of them and pick off the scraps/misses/outswingers. Further inside that is like thunderdome, with frothing groms & twentysomethings, plus randos. The waves here are usually better than other spots around, but you know you're giving up quantity on these crowded days hoping to get a couple good ones. Best wave I caught was a HH right behind an older local- he was far enough out in front of me, that he wasn't really in my way and I managed 5 FS carves that felt good.
Waves were bigger than I expected but I had 5'10" CC Mescaline with me. Only tried it 3x so far, but feels a bit small for me. I definitely struggled to get into waves, and wished I had a board that paddled better. It is fast down the line but not quite sure what else it does well. It surfed fine, easy to whip around, but I haven't found a wave that it really lit up... yet. Anyway, bit of a frustrating sesh with the crowd as I hate having to deal with the aggros.
Pretty much didn't know how to surf today. 2 okay waves in 1.5 hours with seemingly plenty on offer.
It was a tube fest at first light.
The main reefs were mobbed again today, so went for a quick 40-min midday sesh at a less crowded spot few hundred yards north. 4-6’, low wind, 4 guys out on the rights & another 5 on lefts at the next peak over. Was on reTodd’s old Stamps TK fish so went for the rights. Got a few steep waves, that really jack up quickly- some closeouts, some lined up with a wall to race, even managed a couple quick coverups. [Love the board. Most “locked-in” feeling for a twin and does everything I ask it to: crisp turns, fishy speed, hold in steep faces, and so far impossible to pearl on late drops.]
Lots of paddling to stay in position & dodging OH closeout sets. After 20min, tide started draining out, creating steps n warbles. Spent the last 15 min trying to find a clean one in. Back on the sand, me and another guy watched a set of lefts reel perfectly down the line and a guy get 2 barrels on his wave. We were kicking ourselves for surfing the wonky rights. They really did look better before I paddled out. Fun session tho. Nice to have some decent waves again. Hope everyone in SoCal is gettin some
Lots of paddling to stay in position & dodging OH closeout sets. After 20min, tide started draining out, creating steps n warbles. Spent the last 15 min trying to find a clean one in. Back on the sand, me and another guy watched a set of lefts reel perfectly down the line and a guy get 2 barrels on his wave. We were kicking ourselves for surfing the wonky rights. They really did look better before I paddled out. Fun session tho. Nice to have some decent waves again. Hope everyone in SoCal is gettin some
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Man, I fcking love surfing.
Rode my flying manta at a b grade reef/point that was mobbed by agro stu's and wavestorms and some good surfers.
They were all sitting too far out, though, and I got a sh!t-ton of shoulder-high waves and more than a few bigger sets that raced for a really long time. 5-6 good turns of many waves. Would've been hard on a shortboard. Manta is magic.
Honestly, it was like surfing with 3 guys but there were 30 out. Great times
Rode my flying manta at a b grade reef/point that was mobbed by agro stu's and wavestorms and some good surfers.
They were all sitting too far out, though, and I got a sh!t-ton of shoulder-high waves and more than a few bigger sets that raced for a really long time. 5-6 good turns of many waves. Would've been hard on a shortboard. Manta is magic.
Honestly, it was like surfing with 3 guys but there were 30 out. Great times
even south bay had a couple diamonds in the rough this morning. 
30 min sesh at the #2 secret sandbar
Had it to myself and got about 10 belly high lefts . Sheet glass and crystal clear water made it feel like Fiji .
New AG 6-6 Is perfect for these lazy times
Had it to myself and got about 10 belly high lefts . Sheet glass and crystal clear water made it feel like Fiji .
New AG 6-6 Is perfect for these lazy times
Couple late afternoon runners, first time on the new 6-4 twinzer
Yesterday was a little too big and overpowering my local. Surfed for a while and got a few good ones but the current wore me out. Rode my 6'4" but probably should have been on the big board. Today was much smaller so I took out the JS and got a handful of fun ones. After experimenting with quad sets for a couple sessions I was back on the AM2 protos and I think that's the setup I prefer for this board. There was long lulls and with the air and water temps being in the mid 40's I froze while waiting for the sets.
I'm cold just thinking about water/air in the 40s!
Quick late morning session between work appointments. Supposed to meet a buddy out at a Pt. Loma reef, but we just missed each other; I was at the North peak, I guess he was at the South. Huge pack of longboards sitting way too far outside. Riding 5'6" CC round-nose CafeRacer/egg/double-ender quad thing so I sat just in from them and could pick off a handful of rights that backed off outside. Bit fat with side wind coming up, so lots of cutting back, but still some sections where it sped up and a couple that lined up all the way through to the inside. Just 35 min of water time and then I had to go meet a contractor, but it was a beautiful sunny day in the 70s so can't complain.
Quick late morning session between work appointments. Supposed to meet a buddy out at a Pt. Loma reef, but we just missed each other; I was at the North peak, I guess he was at the South. Huge pack of longboards sitting way too far outside. Riding 5'6" CC round-nose CafeRacer/egg/double-ender quad thing so I sat just in from them and could pick off a handful of rights that backed off outside. Bit fat with side wind coming up, so lots of cutting back, but still some sections where it sped up and a couple that lined up all the way through to the inside. Just 35 min of water time and then I had to go meet a contractor, but it was a beautiful sunny day in the 70s so can't complain.
Yea some were too fast. I ate sh!t a few times, some closeouts but 2 good backside barrels.
Sat, surfed an in between bar and it wasn't very good. Was lazy and rode the fuse in waves better suited for the GX.
I'm out for a couple of weeks. Getting a couple basal cell spots sliced on my forehead on Tuesday morning. Surf should be good in the next couple of weeks!
I'm out for a couple of weeks. Getting a couple basal cell spots sliced on my forehead on Tuesday morning. Surf should be good in the next couple of weeks!
Heal up sbd.
Dawned Bowls. There’s an east swell and it’s forecasted to wrap around the south shore. Racers spot probably catching it better than Bowls. It was a little over waist high and slow, the waves had some push. I got two waves at Bowls the paddled over to Rockpile Lefts. It looked more consistent but it was slow too. Got a couple of good snaps on close outs on the twin fin.
I heard and saw some kookery going on at the Rights. A guy paddled out in a white John John jersey with the #12 on the back. He proceeded to tick the other 4 guys off by getting in their way and under paddling them. The 4 other guys are my friends so I yelled over to see what’s going on, after i heard Mike hee hawing and calling the guy a donkey. Mike yelled back how big is the ocean and he still gets in the way. I replied yeah with 5 guys out. I had to paddle over to see the guys face for future reference.
I had the deep part of the lefts to myself over the shallow part of the reef but after getting a set a couple guys drifted over to where I was. One guy paddled for 3 waves and missed them. The other guy tried to get inside of me. I was starting to get irritated cause it was slow, I waited for that set for a while. Finally 3 friends and one of their nephews paddled over from Bowls. It kinda chased the 2 donkeys away. I didn’t really get any more good waves but the kid was learning how to surf so we kept an eye on him and coached him into waves. Totally turned my vibe around. His uncle came correct he introduced the kid to me and told me he has trouble surfing backside could he go on some lefts. All four of us were coaching him. Kid had fun but probably got confused. Too many chefs. Haha
Dawned Bowls. There’s an east swell and it’s forecasted to wrap around the south shore. Racers spot probably catching it better than Bowls. It was a little over waist high and slow, the waves had some push. I got two waves at Bowls the paddled over to Rockpile Lefts. It looked more consistent but it was slow too. Got a couple of good snaps on close outs on the twin fin.
I heard and saw some kookery going on at the Rights. A guy paddled out in a white John John jersey with the #12 on the back. He proceeded to tick the other 4 guys off by getting in their way and under paddling them. The 4 other guys are my friends so I yelled over to see what’s going on, after i heard Mike hee hawing and calling the guy a donkey. Mike yelled back how big is the ocean and he still gets in the way. I replied yeah with 5 guys out. I had to paddle over to see the guys face for future reference.
I had the deep part of the lefts to myself over the shallow part of the reef but after getting a set a couple guys drifted over to where I was. One guy paddled for 3 waves and missed them. The other guy tried to get inside of me. I was starting to get irritated cause it was slow, I waited for that set for a while. Finally 3 friends and one of their nephews paddled over from Bowls. It kinda chased the 2 donkeys away. I didn’t really get any more good waves but the kid was learning how to surf so we kept an eye on him and coached him into waves. Totally turned my vibe around. His uncle came correct he introduced the kid to me and told me he has trouble surfing backside could he go on some lefts. All four of us were coaching him. Kid had fun but probably got confused. Too many chefs. Haha
teeroi so when u say waist high thats hawaiian scale right? so slightly overhead california style waves?