more locked-in than the average twin fish (harder tucked rail, fins close to the tail). Did exactly what I wanted it too.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Went to my NOC combo swell spot. It didn't combo as well as I had hoped and probably should have waited for the tide to fill in a bit more. Still had a good enough time pulling into closeouts that weren't entirely hopeless
headed down to the beach at noon surfed until 3 and i got as many waves as i could gorge myself on, some long lulls but after 3 hours i was full.. gonna soak my old bones in the jacuzzi and watch the pipe contest semis and finals... good day edit- best day of the month no doubt!
Did family beach day. Played around with kids in the water, walked down to retodd reef around midday. 50 people out or so, which was a little absurd but fun waves to be had. Got about 8-10 fun waves in the 45 minutes I was out. Shoulder high, maybe head high on bigger sets. The rights were a little slow but lefts opened up well and had a fun end section to hit. Picked a lot of those off getting that backhand hack wired again. Went back and watched kids try to avoid getting clobbered in the shorebreak chasing after their toys. Highly amusing.
Glad ya got sum Kento
I miss surfing there ... my toe does not like that walk down or the rocks
I miss surfing there ... my toe does not like that walk down or the rocks
nasty cold hit me pretty hard. Probably would have taken today off but knowing I'll be missing 5 days forced me to go down. Quick session, 4 waves on borrowed 6'4" Griffin quad. Some nice racers.
Good: Board is fast as fvck. Bad: boar seems to take a crap when you're not in the sweet spot on the tail. Could have been the size though.
Either way, always nice when frenz let you burrow boars. Thanks Tanner!
Good: Board is fast as fvck. Bad: boar seems to take a crap when you're not in the sweet spot on the tail. Could have been the size though.
Either way, always nice when frenz let you burrow boars. Thanks Tanner!
Dawned my NS regular. Walked down with the Moonfish and saw some wash throughs. Almost ran back to the house to grab my 6’2. But was almost to the spot to paddle out so just went out.
It was better than yesterday not as crossed up. But the north was making the current rage. There were some mean double ups. But it was hard to stay in the take off spot. Lots of paddling and duck diving. Caught a bunch of waves just to reset my position. Got one long one that I got some rail work done. Then paddling back out I rode the current into a double up. Got a roll in and was going fast saw it stand up did a kick stall and finally got barreled on the Moonfish. Got axed on a couple of late drops and stuck inside and went in after a little over an hour. Lotta work for those two good ones.
Hope there’s waves in town report calling for north winds most of the coming week.
It was better than yesterday not as crossed up. But the north was making the current rage. There were some mean double ups. But it was hard to stay in the take off spot. Lots of paddling and duck diving. Caught a bunch of waves just to reset my position. Got one long one that I got some rail work done. Then paddling back out I rode the current into a double up. Got a roll in and was going fast saw it stand up did a kick stall and finally got barreled on the Moonfish. Got axed on a couple of late drops and stuck inside and went in after a little over an hour. Lotta work for those two good ones.
Hope there’s waves in town report calling for north winds most of the coming week.
1 to 3 foot and foggy with some swirling wind
Pretty shitty but some would line up . still had fun weaving through all the noob's
Side note . like others have said the xcel wetuits really took a dive . leaky drylock after 10 sessions :thumbsdown:
Pretty shitty but some would line up . still had fun weaving through all the noob's
Side note . like others have said the xcel wetuits really took a dive . leaky drylock after 10 sessions :thumbsdown:
Surfed my usual this morning. Night and day conditions from yesterday. Cold, gloomy, with south wind that just got worse. Felt slow and sluggish all morning. Surfed like absolute dogshit. Completely out of rhythm with the ocean. Oh well. Ran into need4speed out there. Saw him get a few runners.
Surprisingly good time in jumbled chest to occasional head high (on the bigger sets) late morning with makable sections. Lots of bouys, but generally well behaved. Last one in doubled up on the inside and I should have hit the lip, but hesitated thinking I might be able to tuck into something and didn't end doing sh!t
Meh. Sets looked more promising than it was at a Bird Rock reef with 7 dudes out. Waves were really soft, backing off and hard to catch on 5'6" Mitsven classic TKF. Paddled for 20 waves, caught 7: 2 decent rights that lined up to the inside, 1 left that let me do a couple squiggly BS snaps and a floater to close (and yes, I almost slid out on my BS bottom turn: Gotta get it on rail more!). Still fun to get in the water and catch up with 2 buddies on a rare weekend surf for me. Wind came up last 15 min and blew it out, so we were glad we paddled out early. Supposed to be big but stormy tomorrow so might not be surfable.
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Yesterday evening the winds finally calmed down. It looked like leftover wind slop with the occasional ground swell set. No one out. First few waves were kind of decent although I felt out of rhythm and never really connected with a good section. I must have made it look like fun though as soon there were four frothers challenging me for the peak. Jockeyed a bit and mostly got the waves I wanted. The new board I was trying was not feeling great but the waves were tricky enough that I was trying not to blame it. Went in an changed from thruster to quad and it felt a little better. The tide eventually got a little high and rather than going in on a decent one my dumbass decided to milk it for another fruitless half an hour while the conditions turned into complete garbage. What could have been a successful tactical strike, if not for my own stubbornness, deteriorated into a sloppy battle that ended in begrudging retreat.
Today was a bit better. The winds were actually worse and it was a little smaller but the low tide had the waves standing up steeper and happily it appears as though we have a couple decent sand bars to show for the month of non stop storms we've endured. Despite the smaller size I opted for a thruster over the new grovel board I've been sussing out and whether it was the board or the waves I felt like I was surfing much better than I have since I got home from my trip. There were a handful of other people surfing but they were all trying for a mushy peak in the middle of the beach while myself and a good buddy opted for a deep left runner. It was a good time catching up with him and trading waves. I got a bunch of waves but only a like half a dozen good ones that allowed for multiple turns. Unlike yesterday I quit while I was ahead and finished the session with a long runner that kept doubling up through the inside. Amazing that chest high sloppy lefts can still give that elusive hit of post surf bliss. I guess my tolerance is so low at this point that it doesn't take much to get me high.
Today was a bit better. The winds were actually worse and it was a little smaller but the low tide had the waves standing up steeper and happily it appears as though we have a couple decent sand bars to show for the month of non stop storms we've endured. Despite the smaller size I opted for a thruster over the new grovel board I've been sussing out and whether it was the board or the waves I felt like I was surfing much better than I have since I got home from my trip. There were a handful of other people surfing but they were all trying for a mushy peak in the middle of the beach while myself and a good buddy opted for a deep left runner. It was a good time catching up with him and trading waves. I got a bunch of waves but only a like half a dozen good ones that allowed for multiple turns. Unlike yesterday I quit while I was ahead and finished the session with a long runner that kept doubling up through the inside. Amazing that chest high sloppy lefts can still give that elusive hit of post surf bliss. I guess my tolerance is so low at this point that it doesn't take much to get me high.
Yeah, had this one for a year or so; traded a bigger Josh Hall TKF (that I never rode) for it. Ride it a lot. Quiver's getting ridiculous, with too much overlap, but this little 5'6" does surf differently than your old 5'8". Both suit the reefs I usually surf, but give different feels with this one a bit looser/skatier. BTW- I'm now regretting passing on your Blackbird. LOL
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Double session yesterday. AM was about as good as I've seen Huntington, with A-frame peaks leading into running righthand barrels. I got pitted, dodged some other pits, took some lumps on doubleups. PM was basically dogshit, with the occasional fun one right on glassoff.
Usually where I live on the east coast of Australia, we get the short end of the stick in terms consistency ( north of the goldcoast), and despite a pretty shitty overall 'east coast' period, we've been scoring fun little beachies in the last few weeks. Nothing to rave about, but more than enough to keep us happy.
Current mood though: Trying to keep expectations low, but there's some comedy / fantasy long term models and forecasts coming in. Novelty spots that everyone and their dog knows about possibly lighting up. Can't help but get the giddy feeling in my stomach looking at the charts.
Current mood though: Trying to keep expectations low, but there's some comedy / fantasy long term models and forecasts coming in. Novelty spots that everyone and their dog knows about possibly lighting up. Can't help but get the giddy feeling in my stomach looking at the charts.
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