Length &/or Volume --> Getting old...

[flyinraptr]

@flyinraptr , you just became the most badass surfer forums member.

D@mn - i thought i already had that title!!! LOL Just trying to live the dream - fortunately Mrs. Flyinraptr and i made the decision to retire at 57. We were both burnt out from corporate careers and needed a lifestyle change and wanted to retire while we were young enough to still enjoy being active. Still stocked as ever surfing - obviously - i'm not out there trying to do airs but doing a smooth rail turn is every bit as fun as it always has been. Got a couple of fun barrels Sunday afternoon - on my Omni - here's a shot a took before paddling out.

 

[oeste858]

MrSteve- Highly recommend you check out Foundation Training, created by a surfer/chiro. Really simple, intuitive stretches that work for back pain and alleviates strain from sitting all day/bad posture. Can do on your own or find a local trainer.
https://stream.foundationtraining.com
Volume seems about right, but I agree another inch or two length might help. I'm 40's, 178lbs, 6ft tall, and ride a 5'6" and 5'8" keel fish too. The 5'8" really doesn't feel much bigger, but does make a difference in paddling /catching waves. You might also try a quad fish rather than twin keel (for hold on those late bottom turns), if you haven't already. Since you are used to shorter shapes and have had Tomos before, I've had good experience in the waves you describe on Tomo's Omni (never had a bad session on it) and Cymatic (fantastic for late drops), at 5'9" and 5'8" respectively.
Also, my 5'9" ASQ is the best paddling alt board I've tried, and gets into waves super early (no late drops)... but I've never really surfed it in dumpy beachbreaks.

 

[kool-aid]

Something with more planning area is going to do wonders for you I think.

Getting 34 - 35L out of a 5'6 is no easy feat and at 6'0 once you reacquaint yourself with a 5'10 / 5'11 I think it's going to feel like a game-changer. You should try something like an Uber Driver XL in 5'10 but with a little bit of thickness added in if you want to stay in the 34L range.

But I also have a feeling that a board with more planning area that is 1L less is still going to paddle significantly better.

 

[GromsDad]

Uber Driver XL

Just looked that board up. That is a very interesting and tempting board to me. I'd just like to see one in person to see how they are hiding so much volume in that outline. Are the rails boxy?

Might be similar to a SharpEye Disco Cheater.

 

[One-Off]

Slow pop ups? Push ups.

 

[GromsDad]

Slow pop ups? Push ups.

In my case its shot shoulders, one shot hip & upper back problems and no desire for surgery or to give up and longboard or sweep.

 

[flyinraptr]

MrSteve- Highly recommend you check out Foundation Training, created by a surfer/chiro. Really simple, intuitive stretches that work for back pain and alleviates strain from sitting all day/bad posture. Can do on your own or find a local trainer.
https://stream.foundationtraining.com
Volume seems about right, but I agree another inch or two length might help. I'm 40's, 178lbs, 6ft tall, and ride a 5'6" and 5'8" keel fish too. The 5'8" really doesn't feel much bigger, but does make a difference in paddling /catching waves. You might also try a quad fish rather than twin keel (for hold on those late bottom turns), if you haven't already. Since you are used to shorter shapes and have had Tomos before, I've had good experience in the waves you describe on Tomo's Omni (never had a bad session on it) and Cymatic (fantastic for late drops), at 5'9" and 5'8" respectively.
Also, my 5'9" ASQ is the best paddling alt board I've tried, and gets into waves super early (no late drops)... but I've never really surfed it in dumpy beachbreaks.

Surfed my Omni this afternoon - decided to try it as quad and threw it the Lost Split Keel fins in it - that set on it is $$$. I'm into week 3 trying out this program ... https://app.surfstrengthcoach.com/programs/26770 ... the difference in my shoulders and hips has been amazing.

 

[need 4 speed]

"for getting into a wave early, length trumps width trumps volume, with length being a clear winner " 100% agree
I do a lot of cardio, and the cardio I do builds core strength. IMO a lot of paddle power comes from your core strength
ymmv

 

[kool-aid]

Just looked that board up. That is a very interesting and tempting board to me. I'd just like to see one in person to see how they are hiding so much volume in that outline. Are the rails boxy?

Might be similar to a SharpEye Disco Cheater.

I haven't seen one in person but I do have an Uber Driver so my guess is width (it is pretty wide), flat deck, medium rails. That should have no trouble netting 33L.

 

[Havoc]

"for getting into a wave early, length trumps width trumps volume, with length being a clear winner " 100% agree
I do a lot of cardio, and the cardio I do builds core strength. IMO a lot of paddle power comes from your core strength
ymmv

bro u r so core!

 

[92122]

Only thing I can add here is that I had a 6' 6" really wide board 43L and still didn't feel it caught smaller waves how I liked. Tried a 7' slightly narrower board at the same volume and got more waves for sure.

 

[Mr J]

Slow pop ups? Push ups.

that sort of thing would do it yes. I do a couple of short sets of normal speed popups on the floor, but spend a little more time with some planking type stuff using those big inflatable balls between hands and legs to introduce some wobble to get the core reflexes firing.

 

[aldo]

There are a few good yoga and pilates routines specific to surfing that have been good for me. Flexibility in the hips and core strength help a lot. And as said, strength in the chest and upper arms for popping up.

 

[gbg]

I'm riding a 6'0, 22.5, 2.75 Puddlefish. Love this board. I've ridden it in good head high left barrels and I'm STOCKED!

 

[HotHail]

Amazon.com: Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook (9781616083182): Nathanson, Andrew, Everline, Clayton, Renneker, Mark: Books

Amazon.com: Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook (9781616083182): Nathanson, Andrew, Everline, Clayton, Renneker, Mark: Books

www.amazon.com

Read the getting old chapter and continue surf...

I have this book (it's great!) but I don't think it has a getting old section, unless you're referring to the chapter on "chronic injuries". Maybe some other book? If so, I'm curious to know which one...

 

[emmohl80]

I have this book (it's great!) but I don't think it has a getting old section, unless you're referring to the chapter on "chronic injuries". Maybe some other book? If so, I'm curious to know which one...

Getting old is a chronic injury isn’t it?

 

[MrSteve]

Picked up a 6-1 Aleutian Juice V6. The longest non-step up board I've had in years. First session felt good...
Put one of the suggested books in our amazon cart so i wouldnt forget about it, wife ended up ordering it, so i guess i gotta read it now.

 

[Havoc]

squats n deadlifts ftw!

 

[johnson7]

that sort of thing would do it yes. I do a couple of short sets of normal speed popups on the floor, but spend a little more time with some planking type stuff using those big inflatable balls between hands and legs to introduce some wobble to get the core reflexes firing.

Cris Mills has a really good article on "pop-ups," basically a pretty involved active warm-up, followed by series push-up to pop-ups.

 

[MrSteve]

squats n deadlifts ftw!

Yeah yeah, I do those, but you can keep saying it if you like. Along with multiple triathlons and other assorted races. Never said I was out of shape. Just a nagging shoulder and back injury (strained supraspinatus and compressed L3 disc) that have me moving/ reacting slower