Length &/or Volume --> Getting old...

[MrSteve]

My chiro, who surfs, advises I go longer with my boards, but I cant seem to get my feet right when doing so, as I tend to ride stubby, alt shapes in the 5-4 to 5-6 range. I have a bad back and shoulder now, so popping up takes a second longer, and i find myself flubbing the drop on late takeoffs.

So, how do the more distinguished gentlemen cope with age and maladies? Length? Volume? Both?

 

[trifish]

How tall are you? those are pretty short.

 

[Aruka]

What's your height/weight and what dims are you riding?

 

[MrSteve]

6-0, 185, 43 y.o. The 5-4 through 5-6 are my grovelers/ simmons types. Around 34-36 liters. I prefer keel fish, 5-6, which are around 32-33. Bigger waves, I'm on a 5-10 -6-0. Still around 32-33 liters.
I'm really liking a 5-10 Mandala Super Stubbie right now, but it seems to have a big sweet spot

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

Pick spots with mellower takeoffs

 

[MrSteve]

Pick spots with mellower takeoffs

Its Jersey... mostly dumpy beachbreak.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

6-0, 185, 43 y.o. The 5-4 through 5-6 are my grovelers/ simmons types. Around 34-36 liters. I prefer keel fish, 5-6, which are around 32-33. Bigger waves, I'm on a 5-10 -6-0. Still around 32-33 liters.
I'm really liking a 5-10 Mandala Super Stubbie right now, but it seems to have a big sweet spot

Those dims sound fine assuming you’re in decent shape and have been surfing since childhood.

 

[Havoc]

too short hurts my back paddling. i ride a little longer and works better. my mandala asq is 5’8 im 5’10 but strong as fk

 

[Aruka]

Yeah dims sound pretty reasonable but definitely on the shorter side. When I ride stubby boards a lot there can sometimes be an adjustment when going back to my more standard equipment. I think my stance narrows up a little on those shorter boards and I find myself not getting my foot all the way back on the kick for turns when I get on the longer stuff. Usually doesn't take more than a few waves though, I just have to be aware and make a conscious effort to widen the stance a little. It's hard to recommend adding too much length for dumpy beachbreak but for your size you should be able to add a little without too much fuss. All else being equal adding length will add volume as well but if you can bump up the thickness a hair that will help your paddle power as well.

Hopefully you can get your shoulder and back sorted out. 43 isn't that old! Nothing wrong with a good chiro but the best thing I've done for my nagging injuries (hip and knee) was working out, building muscle.

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

Its Jersey... mostly dumpy beachbreak.

Move to North Florida. It will solve (almost always at low tide and at high tide, sometimes) the steep/quick problem. Also the 4/3, 5/4, and 6/5/4 problems.

 

[Maz]

Volume sounds fine, but far canal add some length!

 

[emmohl80]

I'd try a little less volume, touch more length. Especially in dumpy stuff- in regards to volume.

 

[Maz]

Yeah dims sound pretty reasonable but definitely on the shorter side. When I ride stubby boards a lot there can sometimes be an adjustment when going back to my more standard equipment. I think my stance narrows up a little on those shorter boards and I find myself not getting my foot all the way back on the kick for turns when I get on the longer stuff. Usually doesn't take more than a few waves though, I just have to be aware and make a conscious effort to widen the stance a little. It's hard to recommend adding too much length for dumpy beachbreak but for your size you should be able to add a little without too much fuss. All else being equal adding length will add volume as well but if you can bump up the thickness a hair that will help your paddle power as well.

Hopefully you can get your shoulder and back sorted out. 43 isn't that old! Nothing wrong with a good chiro but the best thing I've done for my nagging injuries (hip and knee) was working out, building muscle.

There are also lots of self-massage videos on the I-webs. This guy is really good: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCF68MhBz0vpVsmuwXH4Vtew

Yep, 43 is way too young to fall apart. Build strength and flexibility, and look after injuries.

 

[Havoc]

squats n deadlifts. quit being a wimp and get swole

 

[trifish]

I find the really short/wide fat boards with more or equal volume don't glide through the water when paddling or get their speed up while paddling very easily to match the wave speed, position yourself, and help the drop. To me on those boards, I find myself waiting til the wave is right on me and taking a couple of hard paddles, than taking off fast and suddenly. Not a smooth drop in. It makes the drop a little more unforgiving even though they get pushed easier/harder when the wave hits the fat tail. My little longer ones I can get my speed up faster while paddling and position myself better before the wave hits the board so i'm more stable and its not so much like an unsettling push in the back. I prefer thrusters over quads also because I feel like i'm controlling the board more where with quads I feel like they are controlling me sometimes on the first part of the wave.

Your riding sizes I ride and i'm a few inches shorter than you. You should have room to get a little more length and still have good foot position. Your volume sounds close, i think more length would help. Just my 2cents

 

[ChaseTMP]

MrSteve, I've got five years on you and have been dealing with back pain for more than 20 years. I've seen tons of chiropractors, acupuncturists, MD's, massage therapists and have tried yoga and Pilates (my wife is an instructor for both) and have spent thousands on seeking relief. I've had times where my back spasms got so bad while surfing that I've seized up walking back to my house and could barely move for minutes at a time and spent 20+ minutes getting my wetsuit off. I've done the massive amounts of NSAIDS thing (2400 mg per day, as recommended by my PA friend) as well as prescribed muscle relaxants etc.

For me, with no true back injury or condition (nothing showing up on MRI's/X-rays), but with very real (with quantifiable EMG tests/results) spasms and resultant pain, the only thing that's helped me was a book I heard about on the Howard Stern show. It's a short/weird read and it goes in circles and there is never an "Aha!" moment, but for me and many others, it really get's you thinking and helps with the mind/body connection for overcoming the issue. I've had to read it several times, but when I employ the gist of the book (it's way too nebulous to write here) I've found relief.

I know your shoulder is another issue which is affecting your potential board choice, but my back pain was really starting to affect my surfing. I was hesitant to really whip my body around, free-fall from floaters (the occasional air) and started to surf safe to not aggravate my back issues, which for me took a lot of fun away from surfing. It's not been all smooth sailing since I've employed the book's theory, but I definitely have longer stretches (months) without a hiccup and I'm able to get through the occasional bouts of pain much quicker now. Here's a link:

Healing Back Pain: The Mind-Body Connection: Sarno MD, John E.: 9780446392303: Amazon.com: Books

Healing Back Pain: The Mind-Body Connection [Sarno MD, John E.] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Healing Back Pain: The Mind-Body Connection

www.amazon.com

 

[scooch]

Damn that sounds awfully short. Im about the same size and I don't like going below 6'1 but I like a bit more rail in the water. Couldn't hurt to a try a bit more length. All a matter of taste and the type of waves you surf on the regular. I have a few point breaks near me so the extra length is never an issue.

 

[Maz]

Bad back and bad knees are often due to weak glutes.

 

[Swallow Tail]

Find a shaper that’s been doing it long enough that he/she has a bunch of experience with folks in your situation, local that you can bring current board to would be best, to come up w a board that will work for you. There’s shapers that can totally dial that in.

I’m 48, 190 & in a 4/3 year round. Arthritic hips, herniated discs in lower back and 2 artificial cervical discs. Surf 3-5 times a week. Adding a bit of foam and a bit of length IMO is the call, best dialed in via conversations with shaper versus buying an oversized board via the internet etc. my boards are 5’8 - 6’3

 

[rgruber]

Swim.
Yoga.

I find if I start having random back aches and pains, swimming pretty much fixes them. It feels like both a stretch and a workout.

I've also gotten into hot (95 degree) yoga the last few years and that works for me too. I've done yoga for 20+ years but to be honest, regular not very intense yoga didn't do a whole lot for me. Once I started with hotter classes, my body responded better. Current place I got to has 1 hour classes of hot vinyassa, no bullshit.

Maybe a little more length but I find beefing up the rails on a shortboard just leads to corky boards.

A mid length is also a good option. Along with my 5'6, I have a 7'0 copy of Takayama Howard Mini. I find myself riding it more and more. I used to just bust it out on small summer days but I've had a lot of fun on it on softer, bigger winter days too. People like Devon Howard and Torryn Martin have made it feel little less like I'm using it as a crutch, although deep down I know the truth.

Another thing is shorter sessions. I find if I surf for an hour and half at a time rather than two to three hours especially during the winter in a 5/4 boots/gloves/hood, my body doesn't rebel as much.

Good luck. Getting old sucks but the alternative is worse.