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Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?

bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,655
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SF x Encinitas
From Darshan Gooch:
"Recent curiosities have lead me dabbling further down into the rabbit hole of Marc Andreini’s - Greenough inspired edge board designs. With mixed and exciting results we have been playing with two subtly different outlines in the 6’8” range, entry rocker, edge height, and fin templates. Most intriguing to me is the exchange rate of getting more for less when an appropriate level of engagement is happening within the boundaries of these design characteristics. That being said, there seems often to be a mental readjustment required towards a natural tendency to over surf in a way that can sometimes prove counterproductive."

Definitely my experience with the Andreini. I paddled out the other day with the intention to push the board a little harder and ended up surfing in a forced way that didn't honor the board or look good.

To rip or not to rip, that is the question.
 
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One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,240
10,439
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33.8N - 118.4W
spjones123 said:
FWIW I've been having a ton of fun on a shrunk down mid length. I got a 6'0 Chilli Mid Strength (~33L) …
… think about a short version of these new mid-lengths.
Click to expand...
rgruber said:
Interesting. I always worry about losing the glide by going really short on a mid-length…
Click to expand...
OK now you guys are fukkin with me. Going really short on a mid length? A short version of a mid length. A 6’-0” mid length? Really?
 
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jkb

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,118
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Central California
bluengreen said:
From Darshan Gooch:
"Recent curiosities have lead me dabbling further down into the rabbit hole of Marc Andreini’s - Greenough inspired edge board designs. With mixed and exciting results we have been playing with two subtly different outlines in the 6’8” range, entry rocker, edge height, and fin templates. Most intriguing to me is the exchange rate of getting more for less when an appropriate level of engagement is happening within the boundaries of these design characteristics. That being said, there seems often to be a mental readjustment required towards a natural tendency to over surf in a way that can sometimes prove counterproductive."

Definitely my experience with the Andreini. I paddled out the other day with the intention to push the board a little harder and ended up surfing in a forced way that didn't honor the board or look good.

To rip or not to rip, that is the question.
Click to expand...
The Gooch rips.
 
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Chocki

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
6,555
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Planet Earth
Sauce said:
That' style of surfing that appeals to me more than anything else I see on the web nowadays. Going fast as fug is all I care about. Saying that's not ripping is like saying a roll with 3x different fish w/ toppings and sauces isn't sushi.. well I don't care, it's what I'd choose everytime. enjoy your raw blue fin and rice :waving:
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1699743636086.jpeg

Bro you have seen the light. I reached the same conclusion idk when. the whole reason I got to be friends with Sid the package Abruzzi was how stocked he was when I heard about the sick vhs collection the shop had and asked if he had something with a lot of Hakman in it and we got to chatting about his down the line roller coaster style.
But I digress bc what I was trying to get to is how much fun I had during my surfing career on 30? year old 6’6” surfboards trying to surf like TF

 
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One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
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33.8N - 118.4W
Chocki said:
View attachment 166503

Bro you have seen the light. I reached the same conclusion idk when. the whole reason I got to be friends with Sid the package Abruzzi was how stocked he was when I heard about the sick vhs collection the shop had and asked if he had something with a lot of Hakman in it and we got to chatting about his down the line roller coaster style.
But I digress bc what I was trying to get to is how much fun I had during my surfing career on 30? year old 6’6” surfboards trying to surf like TF

Click to expand...
Down the line rollercoaster style:jamon:

http://instagr.am/p/BXTjE1mhxyn/
 
encladd

encladd

Legend (inyourownmind)
Oct 8, 2019
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One-Off said:
Down the line rollercoaster style:jamon:

http://instagr.am/p/BXTjE1mhxyn/
Click to expand...
The cock-eyed parallel stance always trips me out. I've never seen these boards surfed well without it.

I think if you're gonna go down the midlength rabbit hole you've got to go all out while learning to ride them. It's a totally different language and requires commitment to learn nearly from scratch.

I think that's what's holding me back from riding them. I'm still trying to improve my twin game. Throwing a different technique into the arsenal would be like trying to learn two languages at once. No thank you.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duffy LaCoronilla

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Apr 27, 2016
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encladd said:
The cock-eyed parallel stance always trips me out. I've never seen these boards surfed well without it.

I think if you're gonna go down the midlength rabbit hole you've got to go all out while learning to ride them. It's a totally different language and requires commitment to learn nearly from scratch.

I think that's what's holding me back from riding them. I'm still trying to improve my twin game. Throwing a different technique into the arsenal would be like trying to learn two languages at once. No thank you.
Click to expand...
If you just ride it by feel you can transition pretty easily.
 
jory

jory

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Aug 13, 2006
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encladd said:
The cock-eyed parallel stance always trips me out. I've never seen these boards surfed well without it.

I think if you're gonna go down the midlength rabbit hole you've got to go all out while learning to ride them. It's a totally different language and requires commitment to learn nearly from scratch.

I think that's what's holding me back from riding them. I'm still trying to improve my twin game. Throwing a different technique into the arsenal would be like trying to learn two languages at once. No thank you.
Click to expand...
It’s not that hard. Two things. First you need to be in the mindset of letting the.board run and guiding it around rather than manhandling it / bending it to your will.
Second, you need to be prepared to be moving your feet around. That’s really the key. If you can ride a longboard it’s an easy transition. If you can’t ride a longboard you are missing out and should address that anyway!
 
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casa_mugrienta

casa_mugrienta

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Apr 13, 2008
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Petak Island
Duffy LaCoronilla said:
If you just ride it by feel you can transition pretty easily.
Click to expand...
Kinda this.

Dropping in backside is weird for the first few waves because the approach is different, at least with what I'm riding (single fin)
Unless you want to use a shortboard stance which looks and feels ridiculous.
Takes some time getting used to.

For me the hardest part has been standard cutbacks.

I'm so used to tight arcs, totally turning my shoulders/leading with my trailing arm on a shortboard
That approach is useless on what I'm riding.
 
jory

jory

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casa_mugrienta said:
I'm so used to tight arcs, totally turning my shoulders/leading with my trailing arm on a shortboard
That approach is useless on what I'm riding.
Click to expand...
I don't know that this technique doesn't work, i think some of it is allowing more time for the board to come around with a longer rail line and the different lines that a non - thruster draws.

Even between different mids.. eg. I rode a 6'10 twin egg (CI mid twin style ) on saturday AM then a 7'10 with a similar template but 2+1 that evening. It took a few waves to adjust to the straighter lines and bigger turning arc of the longer board and i totally kooked the end of my first wave in a turn that my body completed but the board didnt follow!

If you watch Devon Howard, he mostly cuts back in the style you describe but maybe hes transferring weight a little more back to front through the turn to release then engage the longer rail line. Hes also a master of moving his back foot around depending on where he is in the wave and what he wants the board to do next.

That said, on smaller waves, especially with a single fin, you might find turns have more "pivot" than you're used to.

Edit..

interesting to watch these. Same surfer, similar waves. Notice that his front leg is much straighter when he intiates the turns on the longer board (& how much his back foot is moving around)

Erik Paulson riding a 6'4" Cheet from Lovemachine Surfboards in San Diego, CA - YouTube

Erik Paulson on a 7’4” FM by Lovemachine Surfboards...music "Lucid Dream" by Matt Grondin. - YouTube

not ripping but good surfing?
 
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