Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?

flyinraptr

Michael Peterson status
Dec 18, 2008
2,658
1,136
113
San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
22x3.25
I think so too and maybe not even much fin with all that rail plus it has deep vee and flat rocker out the tail.
Late last winter out at a hollow and shallow reef point I saw a guy absolutely flying and ripping tight turns in a crouched stance on a similar type shape, much smaller, He said he and a friend shaped it and like it better with just the esidebites...
If you have the opportunity - i would recommend giving it a try with a pair of large keel fins and lose the center fin ... i am certain it will give it an extra gear and speed up the rail to rail transitions.
 
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spjones123

Legend (inyourownmind)
Oct 24, 2005
420
1,075
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FWIW I've been having a ton of fun on a shrunk down mid length. I got a 6'0 Chilli Mid Strength (~33L) thinking i'd use it as a lazy man's step up. Not 10ft, real step up...more 6ft+ and I want something that's super easy to paddle around the line-up when my shoulders hurt, step-up.

But now I've pretty much been riding it everyday. It's 20.375 wide, with the full nose, so grovels well. But the new iterations of these boards are so much more refined than the eggs I've had before. It has the thinnest rails and most tail rocker of anything in my quiver (grain of salt I don't ride shortboards, my "everyday" board is a Lost PJHP round tail).

I was fully on board the short, wide trend....Evo, Lost RNF retro...but this board has been really fun change; with very similar wave range/ease of use. Long story short if you already have a performance fish think about a short version of these new mid-lengths.
 

rgruber

Michael Peterson status
May 30, 2004
3,451
1,071
113
Interesting. I always worry about losing the glide by going really short on a mid-length and ending up with just an unwieldy shortboard or, shudder, what used to be called a "big guy" board (euphemism for fat and out of shape and/or unskilled).

Wonder about that increased tail rocker as well since another of the glide/flow aspects of the many mid-lengths is the low tail rocker that adds a bit of resistance in the turn that makes you engage more rail and commit.

Would like to try one. Seen some interesting Chilli's around lately.

FWIW I've been having a ton of fun on a shrunk down mid length. I got a 6'0 Chilli Mid Strength (~33L) thinking i'd use it as a lazy man's step up. Not 10ft, real step up...more 6ft+ and I want something that's super easy to paddle around the line-up when my shoulders hurt, step-up.

But now I've pretty much been riding it everyday. It's 20.375 wide, with the full nose, so grovels well. But the new iterations of these boards are so much more refined than the eggs I've had before. It has the thinnest rails and most tail rocker of anything in my quiver (grain of salt I don't ride shortboards, my "everyday" board is a Lost PJHP round tail).

I was fully on board the short, wide trend....Evo, Lost RNF retro...but this board has been really fun change; with very similar wave range/ease of use. Long story short if you already have a performance fish think about a short version of these new mid-lengths.
 

chilly1

Nep status
Jan 4, 2010
553
752
93
Not a mid length but in the realm and bad ass (IMO)!
I read elsewhere how DP customizes and channels based upon your stance



 
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tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,451
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LB —> SF
I’ve been watching Endless Summer a bunch lately and Bruce Brown’s quote reminded me of this thread and what it means to “rip”:

“The main object in surfing is to always remain in the curl. Stay as close as possible to the white water without actually getting caught by it. All the maneuvers in surfing: turning, stalling, trimming, riding the nose, are directed toward the ultimate aim of staying in the curl.”
 

ANIMA

Legend (inyourownmind)
Feb 11, 2020
353
361
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Planet Earth
I’ve been watching Endless Summer a bunch lately and Bruce Brown’s quote reminded me of this thread and what it means to “rip”:

“The main object in surfing is to always remain in the curl. Stay as close as possible to the white water without actually getting caught by it. All the maneuvers in surfing: turning, stalling, trimming, riding the nose, are directed toward the ultimate aim of staying in the curl.”
Great quote. :cheers:
 

Toobz

OTF status
Oct 8, 2013
261
370
63
South Oz.
I’ve been watching Endless Summer a bunch lately and Bruce Brown’s quote reminded me of this thread and what it means to “rip”:

“The main object in surfing is to always remain in the curl. Stay as close as possible to the white water without actually getting caught by it. All the maneuvers in surfing: turning, stalling, trimming, riding the nose, are directed toward the ultimate aim of staying in the curl.”
This^
There are a couple old boys at a local reef here that are all about “positioning”. Fades on take off, stalling, cutbacks, cut downs it really is just a pleasure to watch, something so pure and elegant about it.
 

tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,451
316
83
LB —> SF
This^
There are a couple old boys at a local reef here that are all about “positioning”. Fades on take off, stalling, cutbacks, cut downs it really is just a pleasure to watch, something so pure and elegant about it.
Pure and elegant is a good way to put it. Don’t get me wrong, I grew up on and still mainly ride HPSBs but I’ve lost a lot of interest in watching HPSB/WCT surfing; much prefer to watch different and especially older single fin stuff. That dude Lyttlestreet on Instagram posts a ton of rad surfing in that style and approach, check him out if you haven’t.
 

Toobz

OTF status
Oct 8, 2013
261
370
63
South Oz.
Pure and elegant is a good way to put it. Don’t get me wrong, I grew up on and still mainly ride HPSBs but I’ve lost a lot of interest in watching HPSB/WCT surfing; much prefer to watch different and especially older single fin stuff. That dude Lyttlestreet on Instagram posts a ton of rad surfing in that style and approach, check him out if you haven’t.
Yeah same.
Yes I’ve been following Lyttlestreet for a few years, great content. He’s pretty handy himself on a single fin if you look back through his feed. Very much the type of surfing we’re talking about.
 

chilly1

Nep status
Jan 4, 2010
553
752
93
Not sure if mid length or not but this tail looks sweet (no ...not that tail you dogs! Although if I had to choose one...) that thing looks like would go in some bowly HI surf! -Coppertone ad at CVS!IMG_4641.jpg