Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?


Legend (inyourownmind)
Apr 13, 2004
I don't know that this technique doesn't work, i think some of it is allowing more time for the board to come around with a longer rail line and the different lines that a non - thruster draws.

Even between different mids.. eg. I rode a 6'10 twin egg (CI mid twin style ) on saturday AM then a 7'10 with a similar template but 2+1 that evening. It took a few waves to adjust to the straighter lines and bigger turning arc of the longer board and i totally kooked the end of my first wave in a turn that my body completed but the board didnt follow!

If you watch Devon Howard, he mostly cuts back in the style you describe but maybe hes transferring weight a little more back to front through the turn to release then engage the longer rail line. Hes also a master of moving his back foot around depending on where he is in the wave and what he wants the board to do next.

That said, on smaller waves, especially with a single fin, you might find turns have more "pivot" than you're used to.


interesting to watch these. Same surfer, similar waves. Notice that his front leg is much straighter when he intiates the turns on the longer board (& how much his back foot is moving around)

Erik Paulson riding a 6'4" Cheet from Lovemachine Surfboards in San Diego, CA - YouTube

Erik Paulson on a 7’4” FM by Lovemachine "Lucid Dream" by Matt Grondin. - YouTube

not ripping but good surfing?
Felt up the 6’4 cheater at varial. Was tempted.
def need to surf to that smooth jazz soundtrack for maximum shreds. Boards looks fun but I’d prob be on my lightbender in those waves perhaps.
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