200 yrd rights
Paddle back out
Wait your turn when that One finally comes
Repeat
From experience - a couple of minutes of board time would take several hours
This is the same for all gravity-based sports without assistance as there is an inequality of speeds that results in an inequality of time
surfing - paddle offshore minutes, on the wave seconds
mountain biking - 1 hour of pedaling up, hike the mountain with the bike on your back, 5 minutes down
bike jumps - hours and hours building and hiking the bike for seconds of flight time
snowboarding - walk up (hour) - minutes down
list goes on
The goals are either 1) optimize the slower aspect to make it more tolerable and sacrifice performance on the faster aspect, 2) balance/compromise between the two, 3) suffer on the slower for performance on the faster, or 4) get assistance (boat, electric, lift, rip current, drugs, etc)
Other than true lift or electric assistance... I would say the general tendency is toward the performance side with as much of a "cheat" factor to reduce suffering!