and tail shape is very important. A wide tailed 6'5 with volume in it, opposed to a 6'5 with a thin pintail will ride much differently even if the rails thickness and foil are the same in the first 5 1/2 feet of the board.
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Heavily rounded squash, opposed to squareish squash.
- Thread starter lax15player
- Start date
True, but now you're talking as much about tail volume as shape. And of course a pin vs squash is a significant difference. I just meant that soft squash vs round isn't that dramatic.
To me, foil means the profile of the board seen from the side....going from the nose to a thicker to a thinner tail...where it gets thick, where it gets thin, how much, how little.
Ok thanks, just so i have two opinions... One shaper, and BBers.
Im 6'2 180, and ill be riding OB jetty and South Mission, Fast, steep takeoffs on good days, waves. My surfing experience... Generating good speed on decent waves, and starting to off the lips and cutbacks. I like to have a thin nose and volume in the back of the board.
What do ya reccomend doc?
Im 6'2 180, and ill be riding OB jetty and South Mission, Fast, steep takeoffs on good days, waves. My surfing experience... Generating good speed on decent waves, and starting to off the lips and cutbacks. I like to have a thin nose and volume in the back of the board.
What do ya reccomend doc?
Good foil for early wave catching, and with the thin nose, is very responsive while you are standing on the tail whipping the board around.
Best for smaller surf, glassier conditions.
Best for smaller surf, glassier conditions.
What do you think i should make myself for decent winter waves. I already have a small wave board.
Right now im riding a 6'4 x 19.5 x 2.5 with alot of volume through the foil, boxy rails and a good amount of tail and nose rocker. I plan on riding waves as big as they get in sandiego.
Do you surf S Sunset Cliffs, like Abs, Chasms, 33's?
Blacks?
How about LaJolla Cove?
The first sentence closes out at around 8', any tide.
Blacks can handle DOH
LJC easily TOH.
It really depends if you'd rather be undergunned and snaking the inside waves, or overgunned and sitting waay outside catching sets.
At 150lbs., and shrinking, my current semi is 8'x19.6x2.85" thick Plumeria. It will be waay to small for the big days, but slightly big for the average outside days.
Blacks?
How about LaJolla Cove?
The first sentence closes out at around 8', any tide.
Blacks can handle DOH
LJC easily TOH.
It really depends if you'd rather be undergunned and snaking the inside waves, or overgunned and sitting waay outside catching sets.
At 150lbs., and shrinking, my current semi is 8'x19.6x2.85" thick Plumeria. It will be waay to small for the big days, but slightly big for the average outside days.
I will try to hit up sunset and La Jolla cove when it gets muy grande. I dont wanna hit up these places alone. But i definitley want to start getting into the bigger wave places this winter. And im gonna do everything i can to get my friends to come out with me to these spots on crazy days. And 8' x 19 x 2.8? isnt that too much foam for you?
Most importantly, i will probably be snaking the smaller set waves, and hardly ever taking the 10 footer ouside death plungers.
Most importantly, i will probably be snaking the smaller set waves, and hardly ever taking the 10 footer ouside death plungers.
Basically, i just want something that will rip in solid chest - head and a half waves, and be able to take a little bit bigger waves.
Actually, from 1968 to 1998, that would be exactly 18" shorter than my biggest board, fitting neatly in the "bigger" wave sizing, not anywhere near the "BIG" sizing.
Rode the 8'6"er at LaJollaCove, winter '69/'70, when everyone was calling it 20'+. Sunset Cliffs was closing out the smaller day before, and Windansea was all broken whitewater to the horizon. A rainy day, me and DenDoyle.
But you should get something about a foot longer, to handle some real stuff. 7'4" would be right in the middle of my winter quiver...7'4" x 18.5 abouts.
For you, 7'4" x 19.5 x 3" thick, for more paddling and wave catching. You don't bother to duckdive 10'+ wave sizing. Rounded pins predominate, as you have plenty of speed and quick turning is NOT the issue.
Rode the 8'6"er at LaJollaCove, winter '69/'70, when everyone was calling it 20'+. Sunset Cliffs was closing out the smaller day before, and Windansea was all broken whitewater to the horizon. A rainy day, me and DenDoyle.
But you should get something about a foot longer, to handle some real stuff. 7'4" would be right in the middle of my winter quiver...7'4" x 18.5 abouts.
For you, 7'4" x 19.5 x 3" thick, for more paddling and wave catching. You don't bother to duckdive 10'+ wave sizing. Rounded pins predominate, as you have plenty of speed and quick turning is NOT the issue.
For that, your current board easily handles.
Get used to surfing alone. Almost NO one goes out the days I do, and if they meet me out there, it's under THEIR terms, at their time and place to paddle out.
Almost impossible to find a mate who likes to surf big waves AND small waves with you, so go it alone. Plenty of guys already there, you'll meet them out in the water, and make lifelong friendships, even if you don't see each other more than once every 10 years.
Get used to surfing alone. Almost NO one goes out the days I do, and if they meet me out there, it's under THEIR terms, at their time and place to paddle out.
Almost impossible to find a mate who likes to surf big waves AND small waves with you, so go it alone. Plenty of guys already there, you'll meet them out in the water, and make lifelong friendships, even if you don't see each other more than once every 10 years.
Thats true, but someone i know would be much more likely to look out for me in case something bad happens. And when you see a 10 foot wave breaking 2 feet in front of you... What exactly do you do?
If it helps to make you feel better, go for it.
Me, I look back, clear 70', and toss it.
If anyone is nearer, I hold on.
Can't say it's pretty, but I've held on 1/2 times bigger.
You look out for yourself!
When you start to surf big waves, the respect is in the water, and everyone watches out for each other. No dweebs in the water, so you know everyone out can handle, and can watch out. That's why it's better to surf 10'+ than 4' waves, the surfers in the water are less likely to be kooks.
Me, I look back, clear 70', and toss it.
If anyone is nearer, I hold on.
Can't say it's pretty, but I've held on 1/2 times bigger.
You look out for yourself!
When you start to surf big waves, the respect is in the water, and everyone watches out for each other. No dweebs in the water, so you know everyone out can handle, and can watch out. That's why it's better to surf 10'+ than 4' waves, the surfers in the water are less likely to be kooks.
i find that ditching my board when the waves get even to just 6' that i get sucked under for much longer. If i duck dive as far as possible i get nailed, but dont come near to drowning.
... something i just realized. Last week when it was getting bigger. right before that lowers tourney, i was riding my buddies 6'4 x 18.5 x 2 1/4 and ripping. and yesterday i was just frustrated because i couldent do anything with that friggin 6'5 x 19.5 x 2.5 because the conditions were nothing.
Final decision: im gonna go ahead and make a chip instead of a gun. Because realistically i wont be charging on the 10 foot days unless one of my close buddies is willing to go with me. Mostly because i would rather have fun on a 6'5 x 19 x 2 3/8, with my friends, than go out on a 7' semi gun all alone.
Final decision: im gonna go ahead and make a chip instead of a gun. Because realistically i wont be charging on the 10 foot days unless one of my close buddies is willing to go with me. Mostly because i would rather have fun on a 6'5 x 19 x 2 3/8, with my friends, than go out on a 7' semi gun all alone.