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Getting a double barrel....
- Thread starter Duffy LaCoronilla
- Start date
Surfing a dawn patrol is better on an empty stomach.
Shaving a mate who surfs' eyebrow is a cnut move, because water pours straight into the eye when you duckdive.
Shaving a single eyebrow is worse.
Shark attacks are much less likely if there's at least one other person out.
People who have GoPro mounts on the nose of their boards are either rippers, or kooks... there's no middle ground.
Saying 'one more wave' sucks for too many reasons ... even if you don't believe in anything, including bad luck, karma etc.
Backpackers can go fuck themselves, their waves are mine.
People who suits up a wet wetsuit by using the 'plastic bag method', is an OG / knows whatsup and is to be respected in the water.
Shaving a mate who surfs' eyebrow is a cnut move, because water pours straight into the eye when you duckdive.
Shaving a single eyebrow is worse.
Shark attacks are much less likely if there's at least one other person out.
People who have GoPro mounts on the nose of their boards are either rippers, or kooks... there's no middle ground.
Saying 'one more wave' sucks for too many reasons ... even if you don't believe in anything, including bad luck, karma etc.
Backpackers can go fuck themselves, their waves are mine.
People who suits up a wet wetsuit by using the 'plastic bag method', is an OG / knows whatsup and is to be respected in the water.
Always check 3 specific spots at IB.
Always take hochieman trail. Take newbies down after or during rain to break em in.
Shores on south wind and light period.
If someone is overly aggressive start being overly aggressive back.
Never paddle for the 1st wave a set on a big day.
Never leave surf racks on the car.
If someone mad dogs you in the parking lot at your own spot, take note, and burn them in the lineup.
Do not paddle out with more than 2 friends.
Breakfast burritos after dawn patrol. California burritos for any other time of the day.
Never be impolite to anyone who is respectful (especially in Hawaii).
Don't take surfing too seriously.
Don't take surfing too lightly.
If a peak shuts down after 15 minutes at a beachbreak, dont wait any longer. Move up the beach.
Don't talk to people in the water. Surfing is more important than conversation.
Sit further out if that guy who is sitting further out than everyone is getting the best waves. Then remind him he doesnt own that area in the lineup until he gets mad and goes away.
Always take hochieman trail. Take newbies down after or during rain to break em in.
Shores on south wind and light period.
If someone is overly aggressive start being overly aggressive back.
Never paddle for the 1st wave a set on a big day.
Never leave surf racks on the car.
If someone mad dogs you in the parking lot at your own spot, take note, and burn them in the lineup.
Do not paddle out with more than 2 friends.
Breakfast burritos after dawn patrol. California burritos for any other time of the day.
Never be impolite to anyone who is respectful (especially in Hawaii).
Don't take surfing too seriously.
Don't take surfing too lightly.
If a peak shuts down after 15 minutes at a beachbreak, dont wait any longer. Move up the beach.
Don't talk to people in the water. Surfing is more important than conversation.
Sit further out if that guy who is sitting further out than everyone is getting the best waves. Then remind him he doesnt own that area in the lineup until he gets mad and goes away.
everything but talking to people in the water. I like to talk to people until they paddle away to the next peak.
Rules of surfing:
1 There are no rules/Rules are meant to be broken
2 There are 'agreed to' conventions that appear to be rules
3 There are observations that appear to be rules
4 Every "rule' seems to have its opposite/contrary corollary that makes sense in a given situation
5 Thread drift can provide some insight or breath new life into one, why fight it?
6 Sometimes, just one really good duckdive can really make a lackluster session shine.
Ah this is a perfect example of point 4 I made above.
If you are in the right place for the first wave of a set, big or small, I see no reason not to go.
1 You get unblemished ride (no foam or weirdo bashwash)
2 You show others the power of rotation of the line-up
3 No guarantee the rest of the set will be better than the first or you can get to the other waves
4 You get to see others riding wave on the paddle back out
But you know, I have skipped the first wave of a big set for some of the following:
1 Too great a risk of getting caught inside
2 Too many people on the inside are in the way or are going to paddle to the shoulder and get in my way
3 Sometimes the wave shift during a set so that there is no residual crap left over from the previous wave
4 "The 3rd wave is always the biggest anyway"
Great points, especially 2. I too will break the rule of don’t go on first wave of set often unless it’s doing something weird where the first wave isn’t coming together
Here, nevah. Above hh @ 18 seconds, catch it or not you’re headed for duck dive city. No channel for you.
Here’s one.
If I bring a friend for a surf I always tell them if it’s DOH and spitting barrels I’m going out. You can come out or make sand castles on the beach.
Probably why I hardly ride down with anyone anymore.
But If my shaper texts me it’s 6 feet tubes in front of his house I gotta think if I really want it or come up with an excuse. Cause it’s probably 8 feet and it’s my backhand. Haha
If I bring a friend for a surf I always tell them if it’s DOH and spitting barrels I’m going out. You can come out or make sand castles on the beach.
Probably why I hardly ride down with anyone anymore.
But If my shaper texts me it’s 6 feet tubes in front of his house I gotta think if I really want it or come up with an excuse. Cause it’s probably 8 feet and it’s my backhand. Haha
If you're in Hawaii and you run your mouth then you better be able to back it up.
Similar rule, don't drop in or snake anyone you can't beat up.
Similar rule, don't drop in or snake anyone you can't beat up.
Dont assume you will get a fair one if you are a haole in Hawaii...
On second thought, dont ever expect a fair one any time any place outside of a ring.
On second thought, dont ever expect a fair one any time any place outside of a ring.