What’s the time table for when you used to be an expert, specifically for surfing? I mean like recovery time after a few years layoff.
When I was an apprentice potter I threw 6 hours a day/6 days a week for the first year. Cut ‘em in half to check wall thickness and continuity, cut ‘em off, into the rewedge barrel, and soldier on. Didn’t even get trimmed, much less glazed and fired. The seventh day was cleanup and rewedge day. That gets you to the entry level journeyman level, where your mind and touch work together, you could get the lump centered and do the first three pulls with your eyes closed.
Similar to mowing foam but not with the eyes closed. Maybe Terry Martin or Mickey Muñoz?
left hawaii/surfing 1974
came home 1990 and started up again
left during single fin days came back to something quite different
took me three years of hardcore weekend warrior stuff (4-6 hour sessions) to get my arms back
helped to earn my place in most of my lineups with all the time I put in
I was back but it wasn't anywhere near the same cardio when I was 20 years younger and practicing waterpolo twice a day
I restarted with a custom bonzer tandem 10' from ed searfoss by jim turnbull and ended with a custom 6'4" Bushman version of Curren's Fireball Fish. Still have both boards
losing 30lbs from diet and exercising also helped
but too much blacktop league tennis and jogging to drop the weight destroyed my knees
Now having to do the same again after three years out on medical (heart) but it's harder being almost 30 years older than when I did it back in 1993. Starting now with a 10'6" hope to work down to a 5'11" Chung
Never stopping is the key like Bud
But he started off as a semi pro HSSA champ