I was curious how that went and if past years of rivermouth lefts would come back. I saw some good video early '21 at the jetty
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Can your surfing improve after years of surfing?
- Thread starter JeffRSpicoli
- Start date
Point break surf, long long paddles to the peak, equally long waves that give you time to think on your feet, experiment and dig rails.
Preferably solid surface bottom, reef, rock, etc..., so the wave more or less does the same thing running down the line, sections, give me sections!!!
Preferably solid surface bottom, reef, rock, etc..., so the wave more or less does the same thing running down the line, sections, give me sections!!!
they say it takes a minimum of 10,000 hours of practice to master anything
if you surfed 4 hours everyday of the year it would take you 7 years to become expert at it
if you surfed 4 hours everyday of the year it would take you 7 years to become expert at it
yeah you guys got a bunch of those sneaky little fun days- Long Island really did not
don't know if it would be an improvement but around 2015 in my 50's I spent time and managed about 1 out 4 success rate for very basic air. this one time my sister in law was shooting from the beach, but almost better than the photos was the fact that I was sitting next to my brother when the little close out came in, as I swung around I told him 'watch this aerial' and, there ya go. I knew he was watching, hence my claim out the back on the last frame Bunny Hoppin Bud
trick photography, rear foot is attached to board with neon adhesive substances
reported to moderators
What’s the time table for when you used to be an expert, specifically for surfing? I mean like recovery time after a few years layoff.
When I was an apprentice potter I threw 6 hours a day/6 days a week for the first year. Cut ‘em in half to check wall thickness and continuity, cut ‘em off, into the rewedge barrel, and soldier on. Didn’t even get trimmed, much less glazed and fired. The seventh day was cleanup and rewedge day. That gets you to the entry level journeyman level, where your mind and touch work together, you could get the lump centered and do the first three pulls with your eyes closed.
Similar to mowing foam but not with the eyes closed. Maybe Terry Martin or Mickey Muñoz?
elogro, I took several years off and I came back pretty quick , lets say give or take 6 months to where I could do most of what I wanted. but my paddling and cardio were the worst part.
The biggest problem I had with turns etc was timing. Like you see an end section to smack, remembering when to time it just right had me messed up a few times. Or passing a section to hit the next one, that decision making was a bit dull
to be honest my wave selection suffered the most, I was so excited to be back that I wasted a lot of effort on paddling for waves i shouldn't even look at, this contributed to the exhaustion ha
Despite the constant gear madness and research, the best surfing is done when you aren't thinking, flow state or whatever they call it, had to remind myself to just remember what I knew already and not reinvent the wheel.
The biggest problem I had with turns etc was timing. Like you see an end section to smack, remembering when to time it just right had me messed up a few times. Or passing a section to hit the next one, that decision making was a bit dull
to be honest my wave selection suffered the most, I was so excited to be back that I wasted a lot of effort on paddling for waves i shouldn't even look at, this contributed to the exhaustion ha
Despite the constant gear madness and research, the best surfing is done when you aren't thinking, flow state or whatever they call it, had to remind myself to just remember what I knew already and not reinvent the wheel.
bud, is that nathan fletcher? thats fookin sick!
those chop nose boars always look fun
those chop nose boars always look fun
+1 I had some extra lbs to get rid of as well but once gone my cardio rised fast and my timing returned with also doing boxing: jump rope, speed bag, double bag, and heavy.
IDK.
this pool swimming surfer (thinks he) didn't start the spiral til age 55.
I'm a month and half away from turning 60 and I'm still improving....
...from where I was at a year ago after a back injury
...from where I was at a year ago after a back injury
Thinking is overrated. Other than annual two week trips I didn’t surf between 30 and 40. My rebirth coincided with 6 months of solid swell and there was some brutality. After that I was comfortable, there were few of us and we were comfortable around each other. You know you’re gonna get worked now and then and that’s always been a part of it anyway.
I restarted sin leash for the first month. That’ll learn ya.
probably less than 5% of your time in the water is actually spent standing up, the other 95% paddling/sitting
95 percent of my time in the water is spent in the air punting over u kewks
the economics of surfing more and paddling less, in today's crowded surf world, mean shorter sessions and more burns.
period.
one hour in the water, loads of waves, give two chits about the young, surf circles around them, get out before anyone notices what happened.
leave them with their heads spinning, wondering what that blue streak was shredding waves like Nixon shredding recordings at Watergate.
period.
one hour in the water, loads of waves, give two chits about the young, surf circles around them, get out before anyone notices what happened.
leave them with their heads spinning, wondering what that blue streak was shredding waves like Nixon shredding recordings at Watergate.
This is why laird made a killin' with his custodian gear...microwave of surfing
left hawaii/surfing 1974
came home 1990 and started up again
left during single fin days came back to something quite different
took me three years of hardcore weekend warrior stuff (4-6 hour sessions) to get my arms back
helped to earn my place in most of my lineups with all the time I put in
I was back but it wasn't anywhere near the same cardio when I was 20 years younger and practicing waterpolo twice a day
I restarted with a custom bonzer tandem 10' from ed searfoss by jim turnbull and ended with a custom 6'4" Bushman version of Curren's Fireball Fish. Still have both boards
losing 30lbs from diet and exercising also helped
but too much blacktop league tennis and jogging to drop the weight destroyed my knees
Now having to do the same again after three years out on medical (heart) but it's harder being almost 30 years older than when I did it back in 1993. Starting now with a 10'6" hope to work down to a 5'11" Chung
Never stopping is the key like Bud
But he started off as a semi pro HSSA champ
