Can your surfing improve after years of surfing?

estreet

Miki Dora status
Feb 19, 2021
5,091
4,410
113
Southern Cali
Love reading this stuff.

Here is a shot from the trip, great photo bomb! Maybe it was the caliber of the guys in the water that made me feel like Wilbur Kookmeyer. Got waves, good ones, but the dude in the background was making these airs: like okay I'm humbled and hey watch me I can do a cut back.

View attachment 109633
Nice shot, and it really illustrates the point.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,268
10,469
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Love reading this stuff.

Here is a shot from the trip, great photo bomb! Maybe it was the caliber of the guys in the water that made me feel like Wilbur Kookmeyer. Got waves, good ones, but the dude in the background was making these airs: like okay I'm humbled and hey watch me I can do a cut back.

View attachment 109633
That was a respectable cut back. Guy in the back is just a show off.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,772
4,664
113
SF x Encinitas
I quit at 24, started again at 36 here in San Francisco. I'd say I regained close to my previous form in small waves after about a year, and after a back injury and kids I'm fading a bit. Coming from SoCal, I learned how to surf big waves up here, which is pretty cool. Still improving after four seasons in the 2x overhead + range. Something I learned this time around is that I definitely surf my best in overhead waves.
 
Last edited:

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,810
18,370
113
Petak Island
Repetition creates mastery.

10,000 hours, or so I'm told.

How frequent helps too.

Correct.

You can absolutely improve at an older age.

Take a 50 year old guy in decent shape with - no gut - put him in an uncrowded predictable wave like Lowers for a few weeks.

He'll be twice as good by the end of those two weeks.

Note, opportunity and desire are hugely important in such an instance and you need both.

Only those who have it will thrive.
 

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,706
5,992
113
78
Kauai's north shore ~
why not?
stay in shape - stretch and wave knowledge can make you better

i am not sure if i can surf 3 ft huntington
but 6 ft plus tubes i am surfing betten than i ever haveill

will be 50 in august
Will you just quit already!! Your daughter surf's waves that we can only dream of. Your surfing skills are duly noted along with your list of conquering Wahine's from foreign countries.
Report back in another 25 years ~ :nana:
 

potato-nator

Phil Edwards status
Nov 10, 2015
6,066
1,283
113
I started surfing at about 15, peaked in my 20s, started the slow decline in my 30s, quit riding 2X OH or bigger waves in my 40s, longboarded through my 50s, and now am old and fat and bald.
how bout keep going with a motorized surfboard?

:waving:
 

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,105
10,289
113
valley purgatory
@santacruzin, how old are you?

Are you surfing better now than when you left Santa Cruz?

Or at least better than when you arrived to Indo?
Was just about to reply.

I am 45 in pretty good shape , intermediate surfer not a ripper but competent enough.

Surfing better than I have in 10 years, confirmed by my friend who has surfed with me forever.
the final week in Indo things clIcked, started link things together. Had some of the best turns of my life in meaty waves.
Barrel riding has improved off the charts too (for me). My scary scale has also gone way up haha.

I was surfing 3 times a day for almost 3 weeks in perfect surf. if I didn’t get better I would be bummed.
I also lost about 8-10 pounds and my cardio is off the charts right now, skated with my kids and ran them ragged.

my opinion. If you surf a ton and stay fit you can improve as long as your body lets you.

waves here are not doing it though, indo ruined me :poop:
 

estreet

Miki Dora status
Feb 19, 2021
5,091
4,410
113
Southern Cali
The 10k rule is about deliberate practice and not just repetition. With repetition you could be reinforcing bad habits and just doing what feels good rather than actually improving. It's about pushing yourself a bit beyond your comfort zone and learning new techniques or 'patterns' from an expert or creative heuristic.

Because it's surfing "opportunity" is a big issue and because it takes going beyond your comfort zone "desire" or staying motivated is also key.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,810
18,370
113
Petak Island
Was just about to reply.

I am 45 in pretty good shape , intermediate surfer not a ripper but competent enough.

Surfing better than I have in 10 years, confirmed by my friend who has surfed with me forever.
the final week in Indo things clIcked, started link things together. Had some of the best turns of my life in meaty waves.
Barrel riding has improved off the charts too (for me). My scary scale has also gone way up haha.

I was surfing 3 times a day for almost 3 weeks in perfect surf. if I didn’t get better I would be bummed.
I also lost about 8-10 pounds and my cardio is off the charts right now, skated with my kids and ran them ragged.

my opinion. If you surf a ton and stay fit you can improve as long as your body lets you.

waves here are not doing it though, indo ruined me :poop:

I always tell people about the weight loss thing and how surfing a lot will keep your calories in check. It is insane how many lbs you can drop.

I'm a lean guy and was a gone a few months in my early 20s, probably lost 10 -15 lbs. Later found out people in my social circle assumed it was drug addiction. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
  • Haha
Reactions: santacruzin

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,810
18,370
113
Petak Island
The 10k rule is about deliberate practice and not just repetition. With repetition you could be reinforcing bad habits and just doing what feels good rather than actually improving. It's about pushing yourself a bit beyond your comfort zone and learning new techniques or 'patterns' from an expert or creative heuristic.

Because it's surfing "opportunity" is a big issue and because it takes going beyond your comfort zone "desire" or staying motivated is also key.
I surf a lot, what's interesting is I probably surf my best after not surfing for 2 weeks.

I'm not disagreeing with you btw, I'm just not sure why that is.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stringcheese

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,105
10,289
113
valley purgatory
I always tell people about the weight loss thing and how surfing a lot will keep your calories in check. It is insane how many lbs you can drop.

I'm a lean guy and was a gone a few months in my early 20s, probably lost 10 -15 lbs. Later found out people in my social circle assumed it was drug addiction. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
When I got divorced I lost 15 -20 pounds and people said the same sh!t, umm no I am just in shape now you dumbasses
 
  • Like
Reactions: casa_mugrienta