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Can we talk about HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFERS?

G

grg

Phil Edwards status
Mar 11, 2006
5,912
1,230
113
Tuna Town/Baja
racer1 said:
The only place in Hawaii I've been where it's a full on sh!t show free for all with nobody giving a fook? Honolua.

Don't burn the bodyboarders though, Maui bodyboarders are heavy into MMA.
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The Bay is nuts. Last time I was there it was windy all over and only the Bay was really working and a couple other spots over there. So many people....

Surfed with the Harbor Bodyboarders lots and like most rules they are all cool once you've done your time and waited your turn. Even calling me into waves because I was an old f*cker LOL. Gettin more nuts with foiling...

Ill be there next week...
 
Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,994
7,944
113
San Francisco, CA
Waiehu said:
More times than not, the only bad vibes I get are from some Transplant, and yes, usually Haole, who had determined that since he has never seen me before, that I must be a visitor. Most times, does not go on for too long, as either my Son, one of my Nephews, or one of their friends set things straight. Quite the experience, to be vibed by someone who has only been on Island for six months to a year.
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Hahaahhaha, this was something like my one time getting any sort of hassle in the ocean on my handful of visits to the Hawaiian Islands. I think I detailed it on my one Kauai surf reports. (edit: Trip report)

Haole guy, but more tan than I, paddles up to me to find out who I am and why i was there and how I really shouldn't be here and then, couldn't be here when it was 6 ft or more. Then he paddles over to the Hawaiian woman (who I had just been talking to...she went to school at Pepperdine or UCLA or something like that and was back home visiting), who waves her hand when asked where she was from (She says 'From here" and waves her hand like a game show host gesturing the the new car behind her that the player could win). And then it goes on a little bit until another guy paddles out. This Hawaiian gives me the stink eye, I smile and stay where I am (last section/end of the reef), he paddles over to the woman, they talk, he gestures to me, she shakes her head, points to the other guy, he then paddles over to the other guy, and a few moments later, loud haole goes in. After a bit of time, snagging some last wave of the sets when they got their choice, I get the nod to move up the reef. Smiles and saying thanks, talking about health of the reef seemed to really help as much as me not being stupid in the line-up.
 
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surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
907
231
43
racer1 said:
There was an interview with Cory Lopez where he said he would go surf down the beach or by the rocks or some random peak because even that was 20x better than the Gulf. And I mean no disrespect to Gulf surfers. I do the same thing, I’ll go surf the windy spot or the weird peak 200 yards away cause it’s still freaking fun.
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Thats what Ben Gravy does. Go all the way to hawaii and surf random no name spots on a soft top :ROFLMAO:.
 
surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
907
231
43
Mr Doof said:
Hahaahhaha, this was something like my one time getting any sort of hassle in the ocean on my handful of visits to the Hawaiian Islands. I think I detailed it on my one Kauai surf reports. (edit: Trip report)

Haole guy, but more tan than I, paddles up to me to find out who I am and why i was there and how I really shouldn't be here and then, couldn't be here when it was 6 ft or more. Then he paddles over to the Hawaiian woman (who I had just been talking to...she went to school at Pepperdine or UCLA or something like that and was back home visiting), who waves her hand when asked where she was from (She says 'From here" and waves her hand like a game show host gesturing the the new car behind her that the player could win). And then it goes on a little bit until another guy paddles out. This Hawaiian gives me the stink eye, I smile and stay where I am (last section/end of the reef), he paddles over to the woman, they talk, he gestures to me, she shakes her head, points to the other guy, he then paddles over to the other guy, and a few moments later, loud haole goes in. After a bit of time, snagging some last wave of the sets when they got their choice, I get the nod to move up the reef. Smiles and saying thanks, talking about health of the reef seemed to really help as much as me not being stupid in the line-up.
Click to expand...
My last trip to Kauai there was a fat kook haole on a huge board being a total asshole at the spot. Pretty funny but sad to get vibed by haoles in the islands.
 
Autoprax

Autoprax

Duke status
Jan 24, 2011
68,953
23,545
113
62
Vagina Point
Mr Doof said:
Hahaahhaha, this was something like my one time getting any sort of hassle in the ocean on my handful of visits to the Hawaiian Islands. I think I detailed it on my one Kauai surf reports. (edit: Trip report)

Haole guy, but more tan than I, paddles up to me to find out who I am and why i was there and how I really shouldn't be here and then, couldn't be here when it was 6 ft or more. Then he paddles over to the Hawaiian woman (who I had just been talking to...she went to school at Pepperdine or UCLA or something like that and was back home visiting), who waves her hand when asked where she was from (She says 'From here" and waves her hand like a game show host gesturing the the new car behind her that the player could win). And then it goes on a little bit until another guy paddles out. This Hawaiian gives me the stink eye, I smile and stay where I am (last section/end of the reef), he paddles over to the woman, they talk, he gestures to me, she shakes her head, points to the other guy, he then paddles over to the other guy, and a few moments later, loud haole goes in. After a bit of time, snagging some last wave of the sets when they got their choice, I get the nod to move up the reef. Smiles and saying thanks, talking about health of the reef seemed to really help as much as me not being stupid in the line-up.
Click to expand...
facial expression and vocal tone
 
teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Dane used to hang out in the Bowls parking lot between giving surf lessons. This was a few years ago, before he moved to Maui. Every once in awhile he would paddle over to Bowls and get a couple on a soft top he used for lessons. All the boys would just sit up and cheer him into waves. The lineup would buzz until the next day. Danes out! Did you see Dane!

He is much loved. Jeannie saw him a few months back in the parking lot. She said he looked good and was driving a new SUV only thing it was an ugly yellow.
 
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B

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
There’s a story about Eric Haas surfing Waimea and swims up to Clark Abbey and then a huge set comes and he just swims back to his board and pushes it through like it’s no big deal when the rest of the lineup gets blasted.
 
B

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
seandavey.com

Heavy Water moment at The Bay

Folks, I shot this image from up on the hill at Pupukea, back on Jan' 11th, this year. I could scarcely believe my eyes when this went down. I don't think I've ever seen the entire pack get cleaned up at The Bay before. There was one particular individual who caught my attention as this…
seandavey.com seandavey.com

Found it
 
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racer1

racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,973
15,064
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
I think Eric pulled a knife on his uncle or friend and hid in a trash chute butt naked to avoid the cops a few years ago. I remember seeing it on the news.
 
PPK96754

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,706
5,993
113
78
Kauai's north shore ~
teeroi said:
Don’t blaspheme. Dane is part of the Hawaiian Holy Trinity of surfing for guys my age.
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Dan and Michael'a Dad, was a dear Friend whom I knew from Waikiki and later reengaged with when I moved to Kauai's north shore. DiDi Kealoha was a very well respected Waikiki Beachboy who later went into the trades doing drywall here on Kauai until he retired.
He was a mainstay at BlackPot Beach, with his long silver hair and his dark complexion. He had that certain, quiet presents about him. He played guitar and ukulele, sang, the old Hawaiian favorites.
Michael and Vanessa, the two daughters and their son often spent summers with DiDi in Hanalei, camping at BlackPot Beach. When Didi passed, Dane, Michael, The Kealoha Ohana all came to show there respect, some traveling from different Islands to Hanalei. What was very cool was all the "local haoles" and their kids that DiDi had mentored and played with in the ocean, they all came because he was just a good, simple Hawaiian man who treated everyone with a smile and a kind word.

DiDi's ashes were spread into the waters of Hanalei Bay by his Ohana.
"Ho'omana'o" ~ forever remembered ~
 
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