Can we talk about HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFERS?

[oneula]

you reap what you sow

makaha, the northshore even hanalei used to be beautiful, welcoming places for everyone. Rell and Buff regulated as did others at all the other breaks making sure everyone got a chance and to slap the heads of the local knuckleheads trying to cause trouble

Traveling surfers created the publicity which fed on itself creating crowds. The crowds ate and ate each site up until we have what we have. Mobility and easy access contributed to most of the parasitic surfing virus infecting the world. Just like the charona virus, surfing muted into what it is today nothing or no one else to blame. Not the locals not the visitors its the virus of image of surfing that's the problem. To some it may not make sense for those of us who've been around a long time, they might understand looking at where we came from and where we are at now around the globe.

Today its the back country trails and other ocean sites taking the lives of stupid selfie people.

2020 will be an interesting year with this global health emergency that just getting started and it's impact to worldwide travel and tourism

 

[sponge]

Did you deserve the slap? I always have a hard time reconciling the intimidation and fear of violence with the aloha.

Is it just a surfer thing? My bro in law paddles outriggers and goes every year to the Islands for races and is addicted to the aloha.

Don't think so. Maybe it was a bodyboarding thing.

 

[teeroi]

It’s funny how this thread started as why no Hawaiians at Peahi and ended up being about Makaha and Oahu’s Westside. I think Billy Kemper who is the king of paddling Jaws has Hawaiian blood. Not sure. Dave Kalama one of the Peahi pioneers is most definitely Hawaiian.

I haven’t surfed the Westside in a few years I don’t think I’d surf Makaha anyway. The spots I’d surf I’m not naming. Like I posted before I only go if invited and I’d call Uncle Timmy V if I want to surf out there. Brian the lifeguard told me to park at his tower if I want to surf the beach he watches and he would make sure nothing would happen to my truck. As for Tracks last year got all time for a couple of days. Saw some video of it, which is only recently allowed on the Westside. I heard the boys put it on lockdown . People were told it never gets this good anymore don’t even think of paddling for a set if one of the boys can catch it.

Ive gotten backhanded before, I totally deserved it. Lesson learned. And I’ve been vibed at certain spots until one of the boys paddles up to shake hands. I’ve vibed and dunked my share of donkeys too. Must be nice for some of you guys to be welcomed with a maile lei and aloha at all our spots on the best days. Aloha also means goodbye. Hahaha.

 

[PPK96754]

Blame the movie "Gidget" if y'all want to bitch and scratch like cats in heat. Blame the hollywood studios who jumped on the bandwagon and followed up with the surf movies. Beach Blanket Bingo, Ride the Wild Surf, Surf Party, Spring Break & The Beach Girls.
Blame the puggin Beachboy's along with Jan and Dean and the King of the Surf Guitar and the rest of the "surfer stomp" crew who went to the Rendezvous Ballroom or your local, Knights of Columbus meeting halls who had dances every other Friday night.
And lets not forget John Severson, of the erBB and the contributing photographers who got "thee shot" that You posted, on your bedroom wall. Nor the rest of the film makers that followed. Bud Brown, Bruce Brown, Val Valentine, Grant Rolhoff, Jamie Budge, Walt Phillips for just a few.
And you most certainly can't forget the multitude of manufactures that were on the West Coast. Not many in the late 1950's and into the mid 1960's but by then, surfing was become the new trend.
Penny's T-shirts were big. Mexican leather, rubber tire sandals. Levi's and corduroy pants. Hang Ten shorts or Katin's from Huntington Beach on Main Street. And more new surfing clothing manufactures hit the sewing table hard.
Longboards go to shortboards. Skating. Skiing. Mike Doyle's invention of a single ski, parallel feet together went to snowboarding. Surf Clubs up and down the coast competing for trophies, prizes and fame.
And then Florida drops in on the surfing trend and it slowly ebbs up the East coast.The Aussies come of age, pushing there aggressive behavior into Hawaii and the West coast. Holy phuck! Surfing's becoming more than just a trend. California is claiming. They're not sure yet, but California is raising the ante.
Huntington Beach is claiming the "1st Surf City" Santa Cruz and the combined cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach are all close behind.
"You reap what you sow" as Oneula said.
California claimed surfing as "it's" own. Forget Hawaii. It's a California thing now. California is Surf capital of the world.

And yet there's no true soul to claim. Only something that California "borrowed" from the Polynesians from the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
Party on California. Party on, WSL, Quik, Billabong, Rip Curl and all who's made surfing great ... Own it all. Hawaiians, surfed for fun, frivolity & Ohana. Californian's surfed in the same spirit as the Hawaiians in the beginning, but the lure of bigger things changed the model. Fame, fortune and immortality became norm. (yeah, redbull)
AND, btw, there are more Haole's than Hawaiians and that may be the case as to why there aren't many Hawaiians doing Peahi or Todos Santos. (shrug shoulders here) ... "breeders" .... lol (shoulder shrug again)

(no sour grapes from me. No brown & white thing either. I have wonderful ,fond memories and Friends growing up in California and continue to visit. my own personal views to the thread and Uncle, gets a pass on the West side. )
PPK

 

[Peter1]

If you’re coming from California or anywhere else don’t even think of trying to surf Makaha. Your car will be stole, you’ll be beaten senseless, and they’ll steal your firewire potatonator.

I never had a problem at Makaha coming from California. Of course, I had to surf in the dark.

(Actually, if you go solo, and are in the water before sunrise, keep an eye on the wahines who surf better than you, it's possible to get waves there. Just be out of the water by 830 at the latest...)

 

[casa_mugrienta]

in Hawaii I never felt vibes in the water, but if you look and see how the lineup is working and who is who it's easy. Always realize you are outside of the pecking order at most spots.

This, it's pretty obvious who is who and the locals are generally ripping moreso than most places. It would take a massive ego to misbehave. Then factor in the reality the place is overwhelmed by tourists, many of them surfers 365 days out of the year, and it's probably the most tolerant surf destination on the planet.

 

[VonMeister]

Surfed Makaha when the NS was too big for me 10 ft +, what a great experience, seeing the uncles shredding on longboards in triple overhead surf. I was nervous the first time but found as long as you mind your manners no worries( at least during daytime).

Let me guess, after sharing 18 foot Makaha the next thing that never happened is they invited you over to fuck their sisters?

Scrub it kook.

 

[VonMeister]

 

[LifeOnMars]

Let me guess, after sharing 18 foot Makaha the next thing that never happened is they invited you over to fook their sisters?

Scrub it kook.

Lived on Oahu for 5 years last decade, to be honest Makaha isn’t that different from the rest of the island in terms of surf “hierarchy”, respect the locals and provided you’re a competent surfer you’ll eventually get some. Have stumbled upon epic days on the WS when NS was maxing out, it always helps to go alone and smile a bit.

 

[mundus]

Let me guess, after sharing 18 foot Makaha the next thing that never happened is they invited you over to fook their sisters?

Scrub it kook.

Actually the NS was 10 to 12 and Makaha was called 4-6, I paddled out first thing in the morning it was uncrowded, i got some waves and rode behind the locals most of the time. I enjoyed the scene and watching the locals surf, anything else you want to know, kook?

 

[Beerbelly]

If hardcore underground Hawaiian chargers were addicted to Instagram would this thread exist?

 

[VonMeister]

Surfed Makaha when the NS was too big for me 10 ft +, what a great experience, seeing the uncles shredding on longboards in triple overhead surf. I was nervous the first time but found as long as you mind your manners no worries( at least during daytime).

Actually the NS was 10 to 12 and Makaha was called 4-6, I paddled out first thing in the morning it was uncrowded, i got some waves and rode behind the locals most of the time. I enjoyed the scene and watching the locals surf, anything else you want to know, kook?

So 20 years ago "Makaha mundus" from New Jersey rolls up to Makaha, claims triple over head wave.... at 4-6 feet, paddles out and rides behind locals on waves, enjoyed himself and had a great time. Again, 20 years ago.

Sure, it all adds up.

Anything else I want to know? Sure....what else never happened?

 

[mundus]

So 20 years ago "Makaha mundus" from New Jersey rolls up to Makaha, claims triple over head wave.... at 4-6 feet, paddles out and rides behind locals on waves, enjoyed himself and had a great time. Again, 20 years ago.

Anything else I want to know? Sure....what else never happened?

That is 4 to 6 Hawaiian size, kook And I never claimed I rode triple overhead waves, scumbag, Once again believe what you want, your creepy stalking is bad look.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

So 20 years ago "Makaha mundus" from New Jersey rolls up to Makaha, claims triple over head wave.... at 4-6 feet, paddles out and rides behind locals on waves, enjoyed himself and had a great time. Again, 20 years ago.

Sure, it all adds up.

Anything else I want to know? Sure....what else never happened?

lol

His story adds up if you use an open heart, open mind, and special math.

 

[mundus]

lol

His story adds up if you use an open heart, open mind, and special math.

n The 5 foot tall male nurse just has to chime in like the bitch he is.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

5 foot tall? lol. More special math.

And yes, I'm a nurse. You seem to have a problem with that.

It's never boring, I make decent money, and I have lots of time to surf.

What do you do?

 

[VonMeister]

That is 4 to 6 Hawaiian size, kook And I never claimed I rode triple overhead waves, scumbag, Once again believe what you want, your creepy stalking is bad look.

You said:

uncles shredding on longboards in triple overhead surf

Makaha mundus paddled out at flexing Makaha and rode waves behind local westside Hawaiians. Oh yeah, 20 years ago.

These are your words ding dong.

 

[sickdog]

The last time I was in the water at Makaha I received lots of smiles, and appreciative nods from the locals. I suppose that by just swimming, and treading water in the channel enjoying the view may have had something to do with it.

 

[CCKeith]

So 20 years ago "Makaha mundus" from New Jersey rolls up to Makaha, claims triple over head wave.... at 4-6 feet, paddles out and rides behind locals on waves, enjoyed himself and had a great time. Again, 20 years ago.

didthey let him have hs pick of the local girls after?

 

[racer1]

You can paddle out anywhere and catch a wave. This isn't North Korea.

But you want to get a good wave on a good day? No.
Want to surf a special place around the corner? Better be with the right people.
Want to be an asshole and back paddle people? You might get called out on it and confronted.