looks like if I want to branch out I need to get out of my zone. glad to hear some bars are working in the county
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Fun waves to be had, but brutal waits for a while. Got an absolute nug HH right. Toward the end of sesh, an inside bar
started to focus some hucking lefts and a pack of frothers mobbed it
started to focus some hucking lefts and a pack of frothers mobbed it
People don’t like wind. Fun waves and almost no crowd today.
More aha moments on the alpha omega. Back foot is so key with this board. Such a trip.
More aha moments on the alpha omega. Back foot is so key with this board. Such a trip.
the usually soft longboard right reef here has been so good that I want to put it in a box and hide it from the world before everyone finds out that it’s like, really, really fun here. Shhhh no it sucks and that sewer pipe spews aids into the water. That was not a below average surfer getting a hundred yard rope with 5 full turns, that, that was a pigeon…
Urchin reef at the crack of nine. Crispy offshores and one guy out. Kicking myself for sleeping in. FU'd up the Bomdia and hustled out there. Super fun for about an hour and then the crowd got a little thick and sets slowed down.
The most annoying person in the pack was a full bearded, kegged shaped fellow backpaddling everyone and then making failed motions of rippage on his oversized retro middy. It was a puzzling combination. The board and beard screamed santa barbara but the stinkbug "style" (if one could call it that) reeked of stunted dreams of shredding.
Fortunately after not too much time he paddled in for his morning serving of raw elk liver and the lineup resumed its peaceful rotation.
An onshore breeze quickly sent the rest of the pack in, leaving just myself and an old cruster. The waves had lost some of their shiny luster but the bones were still solid as they chugged down the reef. At home these waves would be considered solidly good and even as the winds ratcheted up to near victory-at-sea levels I was still finding some walled up runners that scratched the go-fast itch.
Finally at hour 3.5 I felt the beginnings of a calf cramp and so I did the long paddle and sea leg stumble across the slippery, wind swept, dark grey basalt reef.
The most annoying person in the pack was a full bearded, kegged shaped fellow backpaddling everyone and then making failed motions of rippage on his oversized retro middy. It was a puzzling combination. The board and beard screamed santa barbara but the stinkbug "style" (if one could call it that) reeked of stunted dreams of shredding.
Fortunately after not too much time he paddled in for his morning serving of raw elk liver and the lineup resumed its peaceful rotation.
An onshore breeze quickly sent the rest of the pack in, leaving just myself and an old cruster. The waves had lost some of their shiny luster but the bones were still solid as they chugged down the reef. At home these waves would be considered solidly good and even as the winds ratcheted up to near victory-at-sea levels I was still finding some walled up runners that scratched the go-fast itch.
Finally at hour 3.5 I felt the beginnings of a calf cramp and so I did the long paddle and sea leg stumble across the slippery, wind swept, dark grey basalt reef.
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We should have discussed before u paddled at my reef
Ah yes, the final bell of even the most fun surf, the calf cramps
After a week of very marginal waves on the east coast, we've been back home for three days, and man is that good.
Very average swell by west coast standards - 3ft @ 11sec - but good banks at the beaches and super fun waves. Stuff yourself in two hours and go home happy with 30 waves under your belt. Water is 21C (70F) and looks to jump to 23C this week.
Very average swell by west coast standards - 3ft @ 11sec - but good banks at the beaches and super fun waves. Stuff yourself in two hours and go home happy with 30 waves under your belt. Water is 21C (70F) and looks to jump to 23C this week.
Craig sighting!?
Two sessions for me so far in 2024. Ended 2023 with hernia surgery, 6 weeks recovery, then a week of logging, before flying to Raleigh, North Carolina for 10 days with the in-laws. Of course I missed all the epic stuff. First session back on the 6'1 Hess Traveler at Swarmies had me awkwardly trying to get the wiggles back after being in set-the-line-and-glide mode for so long.
Mechanics were smoother today. Loser hour. Slightly onshore, tide getting low, kinda slow with head-high sets on the peak. Enough community college students, homeschoolers, underemployed (that's me) and retired to make it a real bitch to grab the good ones. Factor in the three shortboarders taking a wave per set and then back to the top of the peak; a guy on a glider doing the same sh!t (wtf); and flotsam and jetsam blowing takeoffs and generally being in the way. Guess I'm lucky to have grabbed a few ok ones. Had one nice cutty I really leaned on hard just as the section bowled up. The rest of my maneuvers were lackluster, but was nice to get my shortboard flow back.
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Goofyfooted, roided out brother of Craig maybe.
Longboarded today. Knee to waist high solo sesh over shallow reef. Little point break peelers. Super fun. Only bonked the reef once with my fin paddling back out, no damage. Coming in through the hundreds of urchins was dicey but I managed to emerge unscathed.
Heading the the non-surfy side for a few days and then we're back on the hunt.
Surfed overhead, moderate (5-7 mph) side shore winds waves solo, totaly alone for 1.5 hours this arvo, 10-12 fun lined up overhead waves by myself this afternoon. Umm, OK.
Morning WH-CH groomers on quad fish with one other guy out. Both of us in hoods LOL. I’m getting used to surfing with an hood; I like not having to wear plugs. Water is still not bad but air has been chilly.
2nd surf after 3 weeks out (holiday travel, family, man flu) still really out of shape but better than yesterday. Got a couple decent FS carves and slashes in but my timing still feels a bit off.
edit: bonus 2nd sesh this afternoon at another reef. Drove by and looked too nice conditions not to paddle out. Clean little WH peaks but not quite enough tide/push if you got out on the face. Still fun to get some figure 8 wraps in. Wore 2 mil and was comfortable. 2 other guys out.
2nd surf after 3 weeks out (holiday travel, family, man flu) still really out of shape but better than yesterday. Got a couple decent FS carves and slashes in but my timing still feels a bit off.
edit: bonus 2nd sesh this afternoon at another reef. Drove by and looked too nice conditions not to paddle out. Clean little WH peaks but not quite enough tide/push if you got out on the face. Still fun to get some figure 8 wraps in. Wore 2 mil and was comfortable. 2 other guys out.
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Despite best efforts been in a famine of quality waves.
Well finally feasted the other day.
Head half plus, long walled up, offshore ripple groomed rocky point.
6’6” Blackbird with medium JJFs was an absolute weapon for me.
Chip shot early and flying down the line with big swooping pumps, just somehow making section after section.
Felt like just perfect hold and nimbleness. Heaps of confidence. Even got a couple carves/cutties.
Well stoked.
Well finally feasted the other day.
Head half plus, long walled up, offshore ripple groomed rocky point.
6’6” Blackbird with medium JJFs was an absolute weapon for me.
Chip shot early and flying down the line with big swooping pumps, just somehow making section after section.
Felt like just perfect hold and nimbleness. Heaps of confidence. Even got a couple carves/cutties.
Well stoked.
Summer cruising this morning on the Mid Strength.
Arse to chest high soft peelers, sheet glass and 73F water. A peak to myself.
The most relaxing, stress free surf possible.
Arse to chest high soft peelers, sheet glass and 73F water. A peak to myself.
The most relaxing, stress free surf possible.
Surfed my 6.10 El baron this morning - man I'm enjoying that thing. 4 foot peak into fat into peak again waves, the things' just a pleasure to ride. paddles alright... certainly no longboard paddle power, but holy moly does it catch waves easily, and when you turn it, it turns so nice. I feel like surfing this middy will make my shortboarding better - I notice when I'm not surfing the board on rail , it will punish you for it.
welcome to the old man crowd!
Tagged along on a quick work trip with the wife to Huntington Beach this week. Apparently I missed the goods by a week, but managed to get some small runners on the south side of the pier today and Wednesday on the Bom Dia.
Beautiful midday surf at a local reef that could handle high tide as it started to drop. CH-SH racetrack rights on quad fish, with just me and a buddy. Fun for first half then wind came up a bit and it slowed down.
Definitely last day for 2 mil full this winter. Got chilly waiting through a lull.
Definitely last day for 2 mil full this winter. Got chilly waiting through a lull.