I was getting ready to head out for day 2 of my 2024 quest to pull a Daily Dale and surf every day in January (as opposed to dryuary). The wife yelled out oh crap, water flowing out the baseboard from the bathroom wall into the living room. Streak is over, what a day
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
fun surfs to start 2024. bummer I’ll have to break the streak.
realized I’m super out of paddle shape but still have plenty of lift in the step. might have even had a 0.0001s toob this morning.
goal of the year is to get in more maintenance sessions. I’m creaky.
realized I’m super out of paddle shape but still have plenty of lift in the step. might have even had a 0.0001s toob this morning.
goal of the year is to get in more maintenance sessions. I’m creaky.
^ Yep, it's amazing how out of surf shape I can get in as little as a week, especially in the winter. It's been flat here since last Wednesday, but got a little KH-WH bump today. Rode the 27L Bullet and really wish I had brought the 30L Plasmic. Was huffing and puffing after the first couple waves, but managed to sneak in a few fun ones. Surfed for 1.5 hours.
30 min solo sesh in marginal conditions at a disorganized reef. I know this wave and the rights always suck so as I was paddling out I was telling myself to stick to the lefts, dont go right, go left, left, left, left.
A right comes to me and of course I go and its a mushburger to closeout on shallow reef and im stuck in there duckdiving the rest of the set.
After much fussing and fighting I managed a red hot streak of two, that's right, two whole lefts in a row, one of which actually stood up and allowed for a couple smackaroos.
After that though it was all over. Couldnt buy a wave. Too far out, too far in, too wide, too deep. Spank me harder. A little onshore breeze perhaps?
Finally took a closeout in to the beach to hang up my QS jersey.
A right comes to me and of course I go and its a mushburger to closeout on shallow reef and im stuck in there duckdiving the rest of the set.
After much fussing and fighting I managed a red hot streak of two, that's right, two whole lefts in a row, one of which actually stood up and allowed for a couple smackaroos.
After that though it was all over. Couldnt buy a wave. Too far out, too far in, too wide, too deep. Spank me harder. A little onshore breeze perhaps?
Finally took a closeout in to the beach to hang up my QS jersey.
I think you is me! Here you are taking off on some rights in marginal conditions at a disorganized reef (name of spot= Frostie's)
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Windy session. Rode my 7’ single fin. Super fun choice. wind Turned side offshore end of session found some hollowish ones
good use of an afternoon
good use of an afternoon
After 2 days of snaking drains and opening up a wall to find the plumbing issue, I was feeling sore and stiff but paddled out on my Kenson 5 8 quad earlier and had a great session. Lots of bowly waves and a good crew, all competent and taking turns. Got one nice tube and nearly came out of another one backside. 
now back to work.
now back to work.
Smallish but fun reef waves with just a couple other people. Last time i surfed this wave i was like 15 years old and i hit the reef and got urchin spines in my hands. This time went a bit better.
Guy on his CC longfish was making it look pretty fun. I had a to be a bit more selective on the bomdia but the set waves were plenty good enough to make speed and get some turns in. Wind turned and it was just me an an old guy for a while. Surfed for two hours after fishing all morning. Almost nodded off after lunch. Hopefully more of the same tomorrow.
Guy on his CC longfish was making it look pretty fun. I had a to be a bit more selective on the bomdia but the set waves were plenty good enough to make speed and get some turns in. Wind turned and it was just me an an old guy for a while. Surfed for two hours after fishing all morning. Almost nodded off after lunch. Hopefully more of the same tomorrow.
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Fun small surf today. Way too many people out for wave quality.
Got some fun waves, both rights and lefts, on the VS Hyperglide, but lots of lulls and cold sitting around. I’ll take it though. Board is a blast.
Had many fun sessions lately during these last few swells. It’s been a great winter so far with hopefully more to come.
Morning session on the new board. It’s so fun. Sets were swinging wide so I sat wide and picked off a bunch. Realized you had to judiciously take off on big board riders who were not making sections, made for a super fun morning.
Got a ton of waves and everyone was having a good time. Campbell bros make good surfborts
Got a ton of waves and everyone was having a good time. Campbell bros make good surfborts
old house, drains sometimes get slow, when it backed up there was 3 inch cast iron pipe that had rusted away at the slab and water would drain out in the wall between the bathroom and the living room. gonna solar rez and bondo it .
As for todays surf, another stellar day in socal, I broke my rule of not surfing saturdays but there was plenty of swell, but plenty of people, sat underneath on the kenson quad and got a ton of waves for 2 hours, now gonna walk the coast with my wife and spock out some spots for tomorrow's session.
Checked Donkeyland, 4-6' W semi walled with some very make-able shoulders if in the right spot. Watched a couple competent guys paddle out, after 15 minutes of duck diving and only 2/3 of the way out I decided to pass. 2-4' at the regular, much more shadowed, got a few fun rights. Air was cold water nice 6-2 twinzer 
If you're gonna live there and surf that spot you have to be willing and able to make that paddle. There's always a channel or a moment to punch out.
Sandbars down here are good. I've logged some tube time in 2024.
Sunny 48F leaving the house. empty as fook and multi set waves. yeeee. bagged 2 good ones in the first 10 min.
thought floater when I should have tucked in or straightened out and got nailed by the board in the gut and dragged for a bit with my front foot tangled in the leash lol
love cold clean winter mornings. took a 2.5hr nap this afternoon. stocked.
thought floater when I should have tucked in or straightened out and got nailed by the board in the gut and dragged for a bit with my front foot tangled in the leash lol
love cold clean winter mornings. took a 2.5hr nap this afternoon. stocked.
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Sandbars definitely moved around a bit and somehow typically walled beachbreak was making sense of of the 19 second interval. Plenty of good waves out there today late morning into afternoon, a few fun easy tubes, very rippable top to bottom faces, crystal clear water. Minimal competition and no barneys so basically got any wave I wanted so I'm happy.