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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Last edited:
Wonky midday high tide session. Super dumpy and closed out. Rips everywhere. Not very good at all. BUT I did ride the Bullet as a quad for the first time and it felt really good, even in the terrible junk I was surfing. Looking forward to some more reps with this setup. MF large fronts and AM rears.
Kinda lackluster winter so far especially by El Nino standards. I feel like every bump tends to be super mixed up and come not at the new/full moon when it'd be deep enough or shallow enough to make sense of the mix, but rather in the middle of the cycle, where it's mushouts with too much water at low tide and closeouts with not enough water at high tide.
Kind of lacking the sustained pulse. Like the NE blowout lasts 12 hours instead of 2-3 days.
Yep! Totally agree. The tide/wave situation makes it especially difficult at the C grade spot behind the house. I almost went to the pier today, and if it wasn't for the rain, I probably would have. Haven't surfed there in like 8 years.
Got a low tide redemption session before dark. Felt like the swell filled in a bit and got some fun CH - SH walls. Confirmed Bullet with quads fux hard.
fyi, if you’re really 5’11 (like barefoot, not counting hair, no cheating 5’11) you’re supposed to say you’re six foot. Maybe even 6’1 if you have broad shoulders. I only recently learned this, and am now 6’0, or 6’1 if someone guesses that.edit: Sheesh. the judgement. What is this, a Tinder profile?
Went to check the point up the street at the end of the day, it was fucking fun. Windy but fun! Should have headed out earlier
first session on the bonzer Egg, its everything I had hoped for and more. Stocked!
first session on the bonzer Egg, its everything I had hoped for and more. Stocked!
Surfed the crowded spot this morning but it was worth it. Super fun WH-CH glassy peaks that allowed for multiple turns. Paddled down the beach a bit and sat by myself for the majority of the session. New Fascination was perfect for the conditions. Stocked!
yeah, thanks to Racer's advice, I gained 1/2" and now confidently tell people I'm 6'1. I'd been saying 6'0 all of my adult life. It's a whole new world for Oeste!
surfed that point again. Fuck it was actually really fun. Bonzer eggs fucks hard.
Parked next to Torren Martyn. That is one chill pro! And wow does he rip effortlessly.
It was a fun session tons of waves and considering a few pros were Out not a bad crowd at all!
Parked next to Torren Martyn. That is one chill pro! And wow does he rip effortlessly.
It was a fun session tons of waves and considering a few pros were Out not a bad crowd at all!
Man! I should've hit it. Ddin't even think this wind would've allowed it today, so stayed lazy (and did chores/housework/bs). Damn - I will be on it next time!
Windy afternoon yesterday but fun ones at the point despite the bump. Got some long ones over 1 and 1/2 hours.
Surfed yesterday. Waves were ok windswellish with not much power
looks like not much on thehorizon so I wanted to take advantage.
looks like not much on thehorizon so I wanted to take advantage.
Back to the crowded spot again around 11 this morning. Basically a repeat of Sunday. Fun, clean WH-CH waves. Too crowded for a Tuesday morning, but caught plenty of waves and saw some old friends in the water.
Two days out of the water, and have been so exhausted and grumpy. It cleaned up today, still a bit wide and fat, but inner point was not bad. Bonus was warm water and hardly anybody out (5 to 10 max).
Strong sweep kept wave count down, but I'm stoked.
Strong sweep kept wave count down, but I'm stoked.
Maybe that explains it then. After watching oddly unoccupied waves on the cam for like 20 minutes, I went to the most crowded spot between OBX Fighthouse and Ponce Inlet around 1, for the first time since hurricane season 2020. Felt like ass for some reason but did not once have any interaction for priority. No need to defend deeper, nobody hopping, no sections paddled down, nobody in the way, nothing. I saw Garrett showing up when I was leaving and I asked him, does it seem oddly empty to you? He agreed and thought it might be some contest down in Cocoa.
most crowded i ever seen it there on the cam last night. stomach high and not that good and looked like lowers crowds. same water temp too.