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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Yin and Yang. Yesterday’s perfection was today’s ripple. Paddled around in some knee high nothing burgers for exercise and exercise’s sake only.
Baja. Diddling around the tip right now. Will work my back up the shaft later this week I think.
Wednesday I picked the wrong spot at mid-morning falling tide and got lots of close outs.
Thursday I went up the beach and it was better but I dodged a couple of barrels and realized my barrel riding is just awful in general - I’m either too early and suck at stalling or too late. Anyways.
Today I surfed awful rights by the pier. I did an ok roundhouse snap on one waist-high wave that stood up well but bogged bringing it back around.
I surged a 2/10 this week out of a possible 5 for me.
Thursday I went up the beach and it was better but I dodged a couple of barrels and realized my barrel riding is just awful in general - I’m either too early and suck at stalling or too late. Anyways.
Today I surfed awful rights by the pier. I did an ok roundhouse snap on one waist-high wave that stood up well but bogged bringing it back around.
I surged a 2/10 this week out of a possible 5 for me.
some amazing waves as far as surfing the sprint bpaddlebaord goes....epic weather....the sister even came out ot join me....of course...despite shfuffling....stingray got m!e to make it better....the owman...despite being in the apartment...was averse to helonjg with hot water.....made even more epic by the fact she was against me drinking tequila to help with the pain.......to somehow this all being my fault. WTF. this is what i pay for an epic stupid tiny wave clean epic californai december day.
I went surfing today also 
Not so good surf, but the pee and poop was great. I did a double dump, at two different spots even!!! And pissed all over my pants in the dark.
Not so good surf, but the pee and poop was great. I did a double dump, at two different spots even!!! And pissed all over my pants in the dark.
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Did we surf together earlier today? You had a red soft top and came with your surfing class? I liked the two chicks on the yellow ones2ft closeouts with a cold offshore wind
2 quick sessions this past weekend, wasn’t feeling the crowd.
Saturday: mid beach, waist-shoulder high peaky burgers allowing for my best attempts at a boggy wrap, current was worse than I was guessing. On my walk back to the car I saw someone get a few second barrel on a random little runner on the inside, I considered paddling back out but calculated my odds of that being me and it wasn’t in my favor, went home.
Sunday: watched from up the hill near Cliff House for about 15 minutes, almost talked myself out of surfing but decided I’d drive south down the beach until I found a parking spot I could lazily pull in without parallel parking. Ended up around Rivera and suited up without checking. Even more crowded than Saturday, and looked pretty meager paddling out, but ended up lucking into a few lefts that were just slow enough to cruise/race, but too fast for (me, at least) to really try any turns. Fun clean waves with nice conditions nonetheless.
Going out of town again the week leading up to Christmas, I’m sure it’ll be firing again.
Saturday: mid beach, waist-shoulder high peaky burgers allowing for my best attempts at a boggy wrap, current was worse than I was guessing. On my walk back to the car I saw someone get a few second barrel on a random little runner on the inside, I considered paddling back out but calculated my odds of that being me and it wasn’t in my favor, went home.
Sunday: watched from up the hill near Cliff House for about 15 minutes, almost talked myself out of surfing but decided I’d drive south down the beach until I found a parking spot I could lazily pull in without parallel parking. Ended up around Rivera and suited up without checking. Even more crowded than Saturday, and looked pretty meager paddling out, but ended up lucking into a few lefts that were just slow enough to cruise/race, but too fast for (me, at least) to really try any turns. Fun clean waves with nice conditions nonetheless.
Going out of town again the week leading up to Christmas, I’m sure it’ll be firing again.
Back to the magic bank on Saturday morning, but it was half as good and even got a bit crowded. Still it was a pleasant morning and the Wolverine did well in pitching, hollow beach break.
Sunday off, then two small point sessions yesterday, both only waist/chest high. Fast runners, and again the Wolverine was excellent. It really has been as versatile as I hoped; only conditions it hasn't liked were large, fat, wobbly lefts.
Sunday off, then two small point sessions yesterday, both only waist/chest high. Fast runners, and again the Wolverine was excellent. It really has been as versatile as I hoped; only conditions it hasn't liked were large, fat, wobbly lefts.
little short maintence session this am. More of a paddle than anything else. Heading across the pond in a couple days, fully expect a few bombing swells to come as soon as I leave
Pretty marginal waves at a different spot. It was just me and a buddy out and the weather was absoutely gorgeous so, no complaints. Kind of a shifty outside take off and then a little bowl running over some shallow reef. Got a few turns on the bomdia and then did some bodysurfing in the shorepound. Im really going to miss being able to swim in the ocean without a wetsuit.
Lots of paddling and diving, little reward, in chopped up onshore crap. Looked like there were some corners out there but they mostly eluded me. Kept trying to force the fs waves, which were probably a little worse.
First surf in 5 weeks post surgery. Also first surf on the 9'10 Bing. Micro Cardiff during loser hour. Nice to sit and feel the eel grass tickling my feet.
Bing is a trim monster and way more maneuverable than that locally handshaped 9'6 I traded in. I used to think a log was a log was a log.
Basically surfed from the knees down and the board did all the work. Fade the take off, little toe pressure and it slides up into the pocket. One cross step forward and the board hauls ass for a good 20 yard run. Couple cross steps aft and she cuts back into the pocket on a dime.
Amazing the difference a great shaper makes. I'm a novice longboarder, but this thing gives me hope.
Bing is a trim monster and way more maneuverable than that locally handshaped 9'6 I traded in. I used to think a log was a log was a log.
Basically surfed from the knees down and the board did all the work. Fade the take off, little toe pressure and it slides up into the pocket. One cross step forward and the board hauls ass for a good 20 yard run. Couple cross steps aft and she cuts back into the pocket on a dime.Amazing the difference a great shaper makes. I'm a novice longboarder, but this thing gives me hope.
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what binge modelFirst surf in 5 weeks post surgery. Also first surf on the 9'10 Bing. Micro Cardiff during loser hour. Nice to sit and feel the eel grass tickling my feet.
Bing is a trim monster and way more maneuverable than that locally handshaped 9'6 I traded in. I used to think a log was a log was a log.
Amazing the difference a great shaper makes. I'm a novice longboarder, but this thing gives me hope.
Levitator Type II: https://bingsurf.com/collections/levitator-type-2
Matt calls it a "hybrid log with performance characteristics."
Matt calls it a "hybrid log with performance characteristics."