Mexican Dutch oven?are you inviting me to a fart twosome?
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Me too. Even got Gerry Lopez'd out of my mind!!! THe Golden Door is getting a lightning bolt down the middle after securing this gem. I just should have pulled the hand-brake harder and secured another 7" of tube distance
good job punching through. must be all that skating you've been doing
I see you have been taking notes from Yuri.Me too. Even got Gerry Lopez'd out of my mind!!! THe Golden Door is getting a lightning bolt down the middle after securing this gem. I just should have pulled the hand-brake harder and secured another 7" of tube distance
Solidly fun reefbreak peaks. Overhead sets and lots of chest high insiders. Been a few years since I surfed this spot. Still as fun as I remember. Bomdia felt as good in the punchy peaks as it did in the walled up points. Surfing without a wetsuit was a trip though.
Two very tan, bald guys with tatts sitting out the back giving off local vibes. I avoided them. Kooky girl on too small a board, not a threat. Ditto pasty surf hat guy and buff grandpa in pink shorts on a giant longboard. Figured I could bully the resin tinted album moonstone rider out of a nice right without getting in to trouble and so I did.
Fun wave which put me in the spot for a good left on the way back out. Got two more fun lefts and then one of the locals came down to join me. Had a good rotation for a bit and then he went in. I kept hunting and found some more fun rights. Wind came up right as I was starting to feel sun cooked.
Two very tan, bald guys with tatts sitting out the back giving off local vibes. I avoided them. Kooky girl on too small a board, not a threat. Ditto pasty surf hat guy and buff grandpa in pink shorts on a giant longboard. Figured I could bully the resin tinted album moonstone rider out of a nice right without getting in to trouble and so I did.
Fun wave which put me in the spot for a good left on the way back out. Got two more fun lefts and then one of the locals came down to join me. Had a good rotation for a bit and then he went in. I kept hunting and found some more fun rights. Wind came up right as I was starting to feel sun cooked.
Reluctantly went to a beach break that disappoints more often than not this morning. Double date sorta deal with my wife’s new friend and her boyfriend.
Ended up being a total score. Wedgy, hollow peaks with easy entries. An abundance of failed tubes. Wriggled my way out of one. The friends boyfriend scored a beauty of one.
breakfast at a diner nearby. Excellent time.
Ended up being a total score. Wedgy, hollow peaks with easy entries. An abundance of failed tubes. Wriggled my way out of one. The friends boyfriend scored a beauty of one.
breakfast at a diner nearby. Excellent time.
morning was closeout backwashy crap
afternoon was 6' offshore peaks with great lips to hit repeatedly
only 1 dipshit followed me to a peak with no name, and he stuck to the rights
it was still lame of him but he didnt hinder my wave count so yay me
got at least 10 waves with steep drops i was super stoked to be catching. and the drop right into a bottom turn to hit the lip and do it again.... thats why i surf. long time since i had a session this good. did seem to be getting worse, but i was tired/hungry and had my share
afternoon was 6' offshore peaks with great lips to hit repeatedly
only 1 dipshit followed me to a peak with no name, and he stuck to the rights
it was still lame of him but he didnt hinder my wave count so yay me
got at least 10 waves with steep drops i was super stoked to be catching. and the drop right into a bottom turn to hit the lip and do it again.... thats why i surf. long time since i had a session this good. did seem to be getting worse, but i was tired/hungry and had my share
Thought you would enjoy this. Happened to me today (as it does pretty much every day) except this time it was 6 foil fakkahs
Mangrove Surf on Instagram: "Care if I join you?? ♂️ #mangrovesurf #happyfriday #surfcomedy #surfhumor #kook"
2,475 likes, 127 comments - mangrovesurf on December 8, 2023: "Care if I join you?? ♂️ #mangrovesurf #happyfriday #surfcomedy #surfhumor #kook".
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Nice technique. I don't do tubes and cover ups - except maybe once every 2 yrs or so by accident. The stable squat you used after you emerged from the cover up is something I use regularly on my foamie slab - it has the ability to keep going thru dribble sections if I do that. I haven't been on my standup boog for a couple of months, but that requires a lot of the squat right down stance. A really good surfer who has done some wooden alaia surfing told me that there was a lot of that squat involved.
pretty accurateThought you would enjoy this. Happened to me today (as it does pretty much every day) except this time it was 6 foil fakkahs
Mangrove Surf on Instagram: "Care if I join you?? ♂️ #mangrovesurf #happyfriday #surfcomedy #surfhumor #kook"
2,475 likes, 127 comments - mangrovesurf on December 8, 2023: "Care if I join you?? ♂️ #mangrovesurf #happyfriday #surfcomedy #surfhumor #kook".
beautiful groomed waves today, got as many waves as I could, full glutton session.
Still doing the dad thing these days... My son is 7.5 months old now, so I'm averaging like .75 surfs a week.
So I felt very blessed by the surf gods when, on the Saturday afternoon I could paddle out, I'm greeted by head high barrels, stiff offshores, and a wide open beach with good peaks.
Got some good ones, trading peaks with my best buddy. Stamps went well. Life is good
So I felt very blessed by the surf gods when, on the Saturday afternoon I could paddle out, I'm greeted by head high barrels, stiff offshores, and a wide open beach with good peaks.
Got some good ones, trading peaks with my best buddy. Stamps went well. Life is good
Little smaller. Way more crowded. Still pretty spread out and easy to get waves. Crowd thinned quickly and I ended up by myself on the same peak as yesterday.
Got a few fun lefts and rights in a row and then a guy on an XTR Tomo paddled down to my peak.
Album vs. Tomo. Varial vs. XTR. Waist-to-chest high slop. A battle for the ages in the ultimate arena.
My tactic of paddling for and missing a crappy insider while he patiently waited for a nice set wave did not pay off. As he glided in behind the peak and smoothly transitioned into a nice dropknee stance, my heart sank. For the first time ever the guy on the Tomo could actually surf.
Thankfully he didnt spray me as I paddled over the shoulder, I dont think my ego could ever have recovered from such a slight. I looked back and saw little spray of note. To be fair it was a runner and he did make a few long sections. The beach crowd did not errupt in cheers as he kicked out so we'll give him a 5.0 at best.
A decent inside double up came to me but it too was a bit of a runner, allowing for just one floater and a late hit over the shallow reef. I laid back into the foam but still managed to bump a rock with my back. Twas but a scratch but it stung with the sunscreen and saltwater intrusion.
Tomo boy had exited the water. Perhaps terrified of further conflict. Or perhaps taking solace in the theft of my precious set wave. We shall never know. After a few more crumbly ones I had to face the fact that the surf had gone to sh!t and all of my friends and enemies had fled.
Got a few fun lefts and rights in a row and then a guy on an XTR Tomo paddled down to my peak.
Album vs. Tomo. Varial vs. XTR. Waist-to-chest high slop. A battle for the ages in the ultimate arena.
My tactic of paddling for and missing a crappy insider while he patiently waited for a nice set wave did not pay off. As he glided in behind the peak and smoothly transitioned into a nice dropknee stance, my heart sank. For the first time ever the guy on the Tomo could actually surf.
Thankfully he didnt spray me as I paddled over the shoulder, I dont think my ego could ever have recovered from such a slight. I looked back and saw little spray of note. To be fair it was a runner and he did make a few long sections. The beach crowd did not errupt in cheers as he kicked out so we'll give him a 5.0 at best.
A decent inside double up came to me but it too was a bit of a runner, allowing for just one floater and a late hit over the shallow reef. I laid back into the foam but still managed to bump a rock with my back. Twas but a scratch but it stung with the sunscreen and saltwater intrusion.
Tomo boy had exited the water. Perhaps terrified of further conflict. Or perhaps taking solace in the theft of my precious set wave. We shall never know. After a few more crumbly ones I had to face the fact that the surf had gone to sh!t and all of my friends and enemies had fled.
Between work, holidays, and all the kids activities, getting harder to make time to surf. Doubly so because I have been hyper-focused on distance running. Ran 16 miles yesterday so slept in an extra halfhour. Ugh - wished I hadn't. Swell forecast dropped and surprise, surprise, more than the usual number of people out.
Was really fun at first. Just waist to chest high with a couple chest-shoulder+ waves. Very soft. Dropping tide making it Tamarack/Delmar quite a bit so once tide started dropping in earnest, only 1 out of 6 waves or so were surfable - very few things are more frustrating than waves that jack downwards.
For some reason, didn't throw the new fins into the 6'6" Senate. Even though it's a squashtail, it is nowhere near as loose as my 6'7" or even 6'8" roundpin. Frustrating that it doesn't turn on a dime like a shortboard should. Then again, I also have lost 30+ pounds since I had that board shaped. I dunno.
Got about 15 waves or so in the hour I was out. Waves were more consistent at first to be sure with some nice wedges, got slotted in a nice one early on.
Was really fun at first. Just waist to chest high with a couple chest-shoulder+ waves. Very soft. Dropping tide making it Tamarack/Delmar quite a bit so once tide started dropping in earnest, only 1 out of 6 waves or so were surfable - very few things are more frustrating than waves that jack downwards.
For some reason, didn't throw the new fins into the 6'6" Senate. Even though it's a squashtail, it is nowhere near as loose as my 6'7" or even 6'8" roundpin. Frustrating that it doesn't turn on a dime like a shortboard should. Then again, I also have lost 30+ pounds since I had that board shaped. I dunno.
Got about 15 waves or so in the hour I was out. Waves were more consistent at first to be sure with some nice wedges, got slotted in a nice one early on.