Where is your vacation?Little smaller. Way more crowded. Still pretty spread out and easy to get waves. Crowd thinned quickly and I ended up by myself on the same peak as yesterday.
Got a few fun lefts and rights in a row and then a guy on an XTR Tomo paddled down to my peak.
Album vs. Tomo. Varial vs. XTR. Waist-to-chest high slop. A battle for the ages in the ultimate arena.
My tactic of paddling for and missing a crappy insider while he patiently waited for a nice set wave did not pay off. As he glided in behind the peak and smoothly transitioned into a nice dropknee stance, my heart sank. For the first time ever the guy on the Tomo could actually surf.
Thankfully he didnt spray me as I paddled over the shoulder, I dont think my ego could ever have recovered from such a slight. I looked back and saw little spray of note. To be fair it was a runner and he did make a few long sections. The beach crowd did not errupt in cheers as he kicked out so we'll give him a 5.0 at best.
A decent inside double up came to me but it too was a bit of a runner, allowing for just one floater and a late hit over the shallow reef. I laid back into the foam but still managed to bump a rock with my back. Twas but a scratch but it stung with the sunscreen and saltwater intrusion.
Tomo boy had exited the water. Perhaps terrified of further conflict. Or perhaps taking solace in the theft of my precious set wave. We shall never know. After a few more crumbly ones I had to face the fact that the surf had gone to sh!t and all of my friends and enemies had fled.