***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,879
12,618
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun lil clean and glassy peaks in thigh to waist high range. got 20+ waves in 1.5 hrs. wtfo ftw! i cant seem to surf anything else bc i suck at surging. crowd left me alone. saw a kid paddle out on an rnf 96 and tear the chit out of a waist high wave on his backside as i was leaving. also, while i was leaving, saw packs of bro brahs descending with all sorts of soft tops and craiglist boars. couple donkeys were fighting over a parking spot while i was changing. da fk? weird holiday chit.
 
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Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,879
12,618
113
in da hood next to paradise
You should drive up to strestles. It’s apparently always decent/good when it’s flat down south.
or hb. always st to surf.

anyway, sum clean lil runners today. was like pulling teeth waiting for the sets. saw a giant seal pop up about 10 ft from me with a giant fish in his mouth. faka looked stocked! got about 12 waves in 1.5 hrs. even managed a fs floater. good times. loving my wtfo with glass on keelz.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,343
21,876
113
The Bar
Yep to the above. Got on it early while the tide was still coming up. Had a fun sandbar left all to myself, chest to shoulder high, burgery on the outside but with some push and then zippered on inside with some barrels opening up and zippering to the sand. Fun birthday sesh. Moderate offshores and really clean, wave after wave for a while. I think I caught 8 waves or so before I had to duckdive for first time and that right there is a nice little touch. Foam ball sent my tail sideways on one, tried to hold it together, failed, and tweaked my back as a result. Nothing horrible but definitely feeling a little gimpy; hopefully good night's sleep gets it right.
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,939
9,007
113
Bring your biggest Firewire with an epoxied camera mount, a surf hat/Gath, zinka, and a valley girl accent.
 
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Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,268
1,095
113
NorCenCal
Last week I had some fun waves near sunset in town. Random overhead sets and a nice sky. This was AFTER snowboarding in the morning up at Kirkwood. It was a fine morning up that way. Fun day.

Yesterday I got in the water basically for the sake of getting wet. I took out my 5'5'' quad swallow tail that I've only ridden one other time, and it was an absolute blast. Waves were a little fat on take off, but some of them whipped down the line pretty quick. The fish had no problem keeping up. It really turned what otherwise looked like completely marginal waves into a lot of fun.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,772
4,664
113
SF x Encinitas
Finally splashed the rig (Plasmic) in some stomach high D-Street closeouts. Shoulda waited on it cuz mid-day at a certain reef just outside cam view looked really fun.

Any crowd control strategies for tomorrow? I might surf naked with a pair of trunks tied around my neck. See if that works.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,121
4,716
113
Innzid
Two days out of the water with spasming intercostal muscles. Mirror image of injury of 1 1/2 months ago. Never mind.

Interesting outlook for swell and winds, with 28/12 looking particularly tasty: 8ft @17sec and offshores.

Merry Christmas to all of you from little old NZ.
 
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bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,772
4,664
113
SF x Encinitas
Two days out of the water with spasming intercostal muscles. Mirror image of injure of 1 1/2 months ago. Never mind.

Interesting outlook for swell and winds, with 28/12 looking particularly tasty: 8ft @17sec and offshores.

Merry Christmas to all of you from little old NZ.
I've had intercostal injury. It sucked. Took forever to heal and was super painful.

8@17 sounds heavy!
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,939
9,007
113
Finally splashed the rig (Plasmic) in some stomach high D-Street closeouts. Shoulda waited on it cuz mid-day at a certain reef just outside cam view looked really fun.

Any crowd control strategies for tomorrow? I might surf naked with a pair of trunks tied around my neck. See if that works.
Speedos have always worked for me.