***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[silentbutdeadly]

mushier and less consistent than yesterday with a healthy crowd, and I mean really healthy.

Got a bomb at fist light and felt way undergunned on my 6'1" but the rest of the waves fit it nicely. Couple of decent waves but overall pretty meh.

 

[need 4 speed]

The usual was very good early, waist to shoulder section-y lines with some very good combo peaks/bowls. The barrels eluded me(positioning pretty critical), but epic waves anyway. Groomed light offshore with rising tide best early, putting a dampener on the last half of the session. Light crowd, best waves of the Holiday week. Rode the 6-2 IV twinzer for the first time in a while, made some nice turns. Back to the night grind

 

[Kento]

Surfed same spot as yesterday. A little smaller and a bit lumpier. But still looked like there were a few fun head high to overhead peaks up and down with no one out. Shorebreak was relentless and took a while to break through, had to hunt and peck around to find a good peak but eventually found a bowly right that petered out into a channel. Got several long rights, a bit burgery but still enough push to do a bunch of lazy cutbacks and have a relatively leisurely paddle back out. Actually got better as morning went on for a while but the lumpiness was getting worse, felt it was time to go in.

Was all rights all day but a left popped up that looked halfway decent, bowled when it hit the sandbar, grabbed the rail and pulled into a short but sweet little barrel and sneaked out of it before it pinched out on me. No way I could go in on that one so got another left but not as good as it had a mushy section down the line, so just angled it in, funny as I looked back inside, one of the only other guys out all day up and down the beach was paddling out right there. I mean no worries not going to hit each other but the randomness of it was funny.

 

[oeste858]

Chunky monkey out there this afternoon on the draining tide at reef4. Lumpy, sectiony, and about half the size of yesterday. I
saw a guy on a fish get a couple corners and milk them, so I figured I would give it a shot. Passed him on the way out and had it to myself for a while. Not much to do on the lumpy face except floaters or weave a bumpy line and try to connect the sections. Smaller ones fizzled out pretty quickly. Sets were almost CH, and the ones that stood up like they were gonna close out at least have some wall to race before a floater.

After 15 min, a kook on a blue stepup 000’ed me. Gave him benefit of doubt on one right o didn’t spin and go while I was still paddling back out but the guy muffed the takeoff. After that he was sitting too deep so I just took off on anything. He struggled but caught a couple and could barely ride straight so no way he was gonna make it around the first section. 6’0 mandala Oracle (eggy channeled twin) did alright but conditions were pretty poor and only deteriorating so I called it after 30-40 min.

plenty warm in 2mil Isurus full

 

[Northern_Shores]

I went windsurfing yesterday. 20m/s side-off wind and 1 meter waves

 

[silentbutdeadly]

leftovers on the sparkplug. Slow here and there but I got three really good double ups. Water went below 60 it seems. Hadn't been on the twin in awhile. Love the speed on proper turns but kinda hard to surf on the wonky/ribbed face waves

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

I think I only surfed once over the long weekend.
We did the turkey thing on Friday when it was bombing.
Thursday afternoon/evening around the mid beach was really fun. I probably should've ridden my shortboard but I couldn't be bothered. Pulled out the 6'10" and test drove the Hess Quads and planned on going straight on some lefts. Ended up getting some fun rights which kept me in position longer while the tide just. kept. draining. The crowd was pretty thick around 2pm but it cleared to nearly empty by 3pm.

I was waaaaay overvolumed but I definitely appreciated not having to work as hard.. I pulled into a few almondy closeouts, but my best wave was a left where I got to confirm that yes, quads are fast. It walled up and after I decided not to stall, I remember being half way through a little turn and actively thinking "whoah, I'm going fast". I might have said as much as I bellied in. Great success!

 

[Havoc]

cold crappy bumpy and crowded. meh.

 

[nolibos]

Sorry Kento, I needed a break from the abuse at our local (mostly) close-out factory. Headed south to a protected reef. Saturday had fun head high plus long rights, had my spot on the reef all to myself. Sunday the swell went a bit too North and the reef break wasn't that great, much smaller, still fun.

 

[oeste858]

cold crappy bumpy and crowded. meh.

I went and looked at it late morning. Couldn’t motivate.

 

[gbg]

Thanksgiving 2022 was one for the record books. I had 10 days off. Surfed 8 of those days. Overhead barrels. Epic conditions.

 

[Aruka]

Big and not as clean and organized as it's been at the reef. Cold and windy but I saw enough potential to talk my buddy giving it a go. Rode the mid6 w/ MF thruster set. It felt stiff. I think a more upright and/or smaller set would be better but I'm kind of limited on my FCS2 options. Still, got a bunch of fun waves. There were some pretty big drops and a few lined up and ran a ways and allowed for some turns. The waves had solid power and I took a few good beatings. Even hit the reef once which is rare at this spot. Looks like some stormy days coming so I'm glad to get any session I can.

 

[bluengreen]

Pulled out the 6'10" and test drove the Hess Quads and planned on going straight on some lefts ... I remember being half way through a little turn and actively thinking "whoah, I'm going fast". I might have said as much as I bellied in. Great success!

What is this 6'10 quad you speak of?

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

What is this 6'10 quad you speak of?

The R. Slayer I picked up a while ago. Working on digging up the backlit, grainy clip I was able to find from the cam

 

[sdsrfr]

Good lil run over tday. Diff boar every day, I think I’m hooked on short fish at the moment.

rode keels first time long time and felt the familiar jet packs spool up and take off.

stocked. cant remember having a tday run like this, and be able to sirf it, in the last 5yrs.

 

[Havoc]

The usual was very good early, waist to shoulder section-y lines with some very good combo peaks/bowls. The barrels eluded me(positioning pretty critical), but epic waves anyway. Groomed light offshore with rising tide best early, putting a dampener on the last half of the session. Light crowd, best waves of the Holiday week. Rode the 6-2 IV twinzer for the first time in a while, made some nice turns. Back to the night grind

the regulars kept talking about how good north oc was last wk

 

[tedshred5]

Overslept my alarm so rushed out the door and got to the usual beach/reef zone a lil late. Short period swell was funky and crossed up, but saw a few workable corners rolling in. A lot of paddling and a couple drop ins/quick pump down the line on the EA Firecat quad. Set waves ended up jacking up but then backing off so it was tough to find one to let you in. Wind was blowing offshore when I paddled out, but turned cross-shore by the end of the short 40min session.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

What is this 6'10 quad you speak of?

The R. Slayer I picked up a while ago. Working on digging up the backlit, grainy clip I was able to find from the cam
View attachment 142788

Found it. If you squint.

 

[oeste858]

Mid morning at the local BB to unleash my inner SBD on his borrowed Flare. Quick sesh was mostly: duckdiving, closeouts, floaters, pulling in and getting shut down. Maybe fit in one fs slash. Flare felt like a toothpick under arm walking to beach but paddled fine (Tim does a good job hiding/distributing foam).
Didn’t click with outline right away. Used to more of the foam forward and sarfing off front foot on my fishy twins. after one or two, I got my feet right and it did what I wanted to, but the waves didn’t have much open face/shoulder for turns tho, so probably not the best test run. i could see how if I surfed BB more, it would be good boar… but don’t think i would like it as much at my usual reefs.

was plenty warm in Isurus 2mil full despite getting ice cream headache duckdiving. Friggin love these suits!

here’s a frame grab from the sarfline cam:

 

[oeste858]

Overslept my alarm so rushed out the door and got to the usual beach/reef zone a lil late. Short period swell was funky and crossed up, but saw a few workable corners rolling in. A lot of paddling and a couple drop ins/quick pump down the line on the EA Firecat quad. Set waves ended up jacking up but then backing off so it was tough to find one to let you in. Wind was blowing offshore when I paddled out, but turned cross-shore by the end of the short 40min session.

40 min? endurance sesh