I've got a gun you can borrow if you want a shot at redemption.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
It aint a proper oahu trip without at least one near death experience
Maybe this belongs in the foil thread, but there was a guy on some sort of E Foil with a paddle yesterday evening going NUTS.
I've never seen anyone go so fast or get as many waves as I saw him get. It felt surreal. He was ripping, but the speed on both the wave and back out into the lineup was shocking.
Now, if I was out in the lineup rather than picking my jaw up off Great Highway, I probably would've been bummed, but it was pretty wild to watch from the beach.
I've never seen anyone go so fast or get as many waves as I saw him get. It felt surreal. He was ripping, but the speed on both the wave and back out into the lineup was shocking.
Now, if I was out in the lineup rather than picking my jaw up off Great Highway, I probably would've been bummed, but it was pretty wild to watch from the beach.
Stumbled into CH-HH sets this afternoon… along with everyone out of school and back in town for holiday week. big crowd was hectic but I picked off a few sideshore groomers. Caught inside for one set- do not recommend. Spent a lot of time paddling around trying to find the nooks n crannies in the crowd to catch a wave without 4-5 guys taking off.
Looked almost flat this am when I checked a few spots, so I only had 5’11 Punksanity twin with me. It did alright but could’ve used a better wave boar to get in earlier and draw longer lines.
Amazing Fall conditions again!
Looked almost flat this am when I checked a few spots, so I only had 5’11 Punksanity twin with me. It did alright but could’ve used a better wave boar to get in earlier and draw longer lines.
Amazing Fall conditions again!
2 and 1//2 hours of late morning fun fun fun. Small clean and fun. Did I mention it was fun. I should have drove north but I am lazy.
Very good few evening sessions in a row at the middle of the beach out front. Sat. on the gigantic oversized fish thing, Sunday on the longboard, and this evening on a shortboard.
Yesterday was a tiny bit bigger than I expected so I thought I had made a mistake taking out the log, but it ended up working out great.
Today on a skate-y shortboard I did a few halfway competent backside top turns for the first time in a long time. Injured arm isn't back to 100% but it's getting better way faster than I feared. stocked.
Yesterday was a tiny bit bigger than I expected so I thought I had made a mistake taking out the log, but it ended up working out great.
Today on a skate-y shortboard I did a few halfway competent backside top turns for the first time in a long time. Injured arm isn't back to 100% but it's getting better way faster than I feared. stocked.
bounced between two spots. the s was hitting the bars are wrong so I opted for the bar that was pulling in what little was left of the nw windswell. couple of butt wiggles but mostly bad. My matuse 3/2 ( I mean 4/3) is breaking in and felt better.
rode the dank farts album.
Gonna be some good ones somewhere on the lower tide. Gotta worky though
rode the dank farts album.
Gonna be some good ones somewhere on the lower tide. Gotta worky though
mega AM high tide with long period SSW and some WNW, so hit the beachbreak down the hill. mostly closeouts but got 1 left that ran for a little bit. decided to set up the EA Firecat as a thruster and it felt nice and predictable. crowd wasn't too bad, most people probably waiting for the tide to drop, but like SBD said, gotta go to worky
don’t worry, bros. I got some HH ones for you as the tide started coming down mid morning. So clean and fun that I ignored worky and ended up staying out for a decadent hour. TMST was perfect fit for conditions: buttery FS carves & snaps. Made it out of one little coverup on the inside section towards the end of the sesh, once the tide was sucking up a bit more.
Crowd was insane by the time I got out. Complete clown show with crossed lines, bailed boars, paddling right in people’s drops and lines, and 3 taking off each way.
Cooking in my 3mil Isurus
Last edited:
congrats on being able to surf more than 5 minutes
an entire hour, did you give yourself rhabdomyolysis?don’t worry, bros. I got some HH ones for you as the tide started coming down mid morning. So clean and fun that I ignored worky and ended up staying out for a decadent hour. TMST was perfect fit for conditions: buttery FS carves & snaps. Made it out of one little coverup on the inside section towards the end of the sesh, once the tide was sucking up a bit more.
Crowd was insane by the time I got out. Complete clown show with crossed lines, bailed boars, paddling right in people’s drops and lines, and 3 taking off each way.
Cooking in my 3mil Isurus
lots of work....payooff was the goods...but LOTS of work. got better by the time i was gassed. MAS!!!
20w and I in same zone. waist-chest(few oddball HH sets) freight train-y lefts with a few against the grain rights uber clean with light offshore wind and dropping tide. 6-4 IV twinzer, couple reminded my why I moved on( couple reminded me why I liked in smaller wave board) Mas! 4 days straight
soft high tide runners on oeste's punksanity. Sort of frustrating but some good lines here and there. Board felt pretty directional and tracky... maybe it's just that I haven't been riding beak nose fin set back twins lately but that was the first thing I noticed. Board got to business quickly though when the right section presented itself.
First sesh in the isurus 3mm hoody. probably the most comfy suit I've ever worn. Felt good in the 46 degree air but I was boiling later in the sesh even with the hood off.
First sesh in the isurus 3mm hoody. probably the most comfy suit I've ever worn. Felt good in the 46 degree air but I was boiling later in the sesh even with the hood off.
Saturday - wifey not feeling great, but we decided to head north of town to do a mellow hike. I remark that ocean conditions look good all day and we should throw some beach gear in the car, she agrees. After the hike, we post up on a cliff overlooking a stretch of beach and have lunch. A left sandbar below looks kinda fun and nobody is surfing it. Wifey says she's too tired to get in the water, but that she's fine with me going out for 45 minutes before we go exploring some more. I paddle out just as somebody else decides to head to the same bar, but they end up not being factor. Chest-headhigh hollow lefts and firing for the time I was out.
Sunday - wifey wants to get in the water, so we head north of town late in the day. Lots of people in front of the lot and it doesn't look great, nobody surfing 100 yards north and it looks slightly better. We paddle out to some mediocre waist-shoulder high peaks, but an occasional left runner comes through. Sunset is nice.
Monday - Head north late morning with Ocean7847, tide dropping fast, inconsistent south swell and some WNW swell in the mix. We surf in front of the lot with a handful of other people, pretty fun lefts about waist-shoulder high. I keep eyeing the beachbreak further south, as it has the occasional bowly barrel. After a fun one I run down the beach a half mile and luck into a really good left within a few minutes. Locked in the barrel, there is a window for a doggydoor exit, but I see it keep peeling off ahead, so I stay put. Squeak out another doggydoor a second or two later before getting absolutely blasted by the exploding lip just behind me. Worth it.
Tuesday - Back up north with a different friend, another clean afternoon, but new swell from the WNW makes the shape not as ideal at this particular spot. I eventually end up at the same beachbreak peak as the previous day, tide is sucking out, and waves were just folding over the bar with barely any room to slide under the lip on takeoff. I'm not sure I've gone over the falls so many times in one session. Also didn't feel 100%, definitely was fighting some of the sickness my wife had, though I'm not sick with symptoms. Overall the session isn't great, but it was nice to be out and at least make a couple of the drops.
After the hike, we post up on a cliff overlooking a stretch of beach and have lunch. A left sandbar below looks kinda fun and nobody is surfing it. Wifey says she's too tired to get in the water, but that she's fine with me going out for 45 minutes before we go exploring some more. I paddle out just as somebody else decides to head to the same bar, but they end up not being factor. Chest-headhigh hollow lefts and firing for the time I was out. Sunday - wifey wants to get in the water, so we head north of town late in the day. Lots of people in front of the lot and it doesn't look great, nobody surfing 100 yards north and it looks slightly better. We paddle out to some mediocre waist-shoulder high peaks, but an occasional left runner comes through. Sunset is nice.
Monday - Head north late morning with Ocean7847, tide dropping fast, inconsistent south swell and some WNW swell in the mix. We surf in front of the lot with a handful of other people, pretty fun lefts about waist-shoulder high. I keep eyeing the beachbreak further south, as it has the occasional bowly barrel. After a fun one I run down the beach a half mile and luck into a really good left within a few minutes. Locked in the barrel, there is a window for a doggydoor exit, but I see it keep peeling off ahead, so I stay put. Squeak out another doggydoor a second or two later before getting absolutely blasted by the exploding lip just behind me. Worth it.
Tuesday - Back up north with a different friend, another clean afternoon, but new swell from the WNW makes the shape not as ideal at this particular spot. I eventually end up at the same beachbreak peak as the previous day, tide is sucking out, and waves were just folding over the bar with barely any room to slide under the lip on takeoff. I'm not sure I've gone over the falls so many times in one session. Also didn't feel 100%, definitely was fighting some of the sickness my wife had, though I'm not sick with symptoms. Overall the session isn't great, but it was nice to be out and at least make a couple of the drops.
