Same as yesterday but less consistent. Rode the fuse the mix it up. That board is one schralpy hp groveler. Very milky with two healthy spoonfuls of spice
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nah man, if you pay attention my skinny ass is endlessly bitching on here about the water temps any time it dips below 50F. 47F is legit cold in my book.yikes. and i thought yesterdays 47water/47air with nw 10kts was cold. constant paddling for shitty rip waves being the only saving grace. i am such a puss
not really! my old 3mm gloves felt like they were doing fk all to cut the chill. i've got some new 5mm's on the way though.Yikes! That is cold, Ruker. Your hands dealing with it ok?
it's all a part of the learning experience, a lesson isn't going to help you read waves. maybe video analysis but that's hard to come by. the more time you spend in the water in different conditions the better you'll be able to have a better grasp of what the wave will do, it's a non-thinkng type of skill and is more of a reaction to than anything.My friend watched the whole thing and gave me a bit of advice but I would pay so much good money to an experienced surfer who could have watched that and told me exactly what I needed to do. I'm basically winging it out there. I've never had a lesson in my life, which has worked out fine mostly but I'm at a point where I think some advice would really do me wonders.
So I rode an incredible wave, had a blast, but didn't do it anywhere the justice that a good surfer would have.
You really caught me off guard with your minutes notation. Even the surf journal entries are about efficiency.My first two spots were packed and I didn’t have time to deal so opted for a quick 28’ at reef 3. Caught 10 lumpy soft little runners without much push. SD Spring!
I've thought about what you wrote and there is definitely validity. That idea of non-thinking reaction, that's pretty key and the problem is that my reaction right now takes me in the wrong direction.it's all a part of the learning experience, a lesson isn't going to help you read waves. maybe video analysis but that's hard to come by. the more time you spend in the water in different conditions the better you'll be able to have a better grasp of what the wave will do, it's a non-thinkng type of skill and is more of a reaction to than anything.
maybe get one of those carver/smoothbrain skateboards that will help you practice technique, where to place your arms where to look and the muscle memory that comes up from standing sideways on a board and moving the whole body together in an efficient manner.
I just hope it wasn't another "HPSB thruster is the only true way" manifesto!Not sure if I got this right or not but I think Hallph was telling us that the West bank was 4-6' and going off while everyone else was at the mosque praying for surf. Allah Ahkbar.
Bro, you just need Raimana on the ski in front of the wave yelling at you when to pull in, stall, grab da rail, etc. !I've thought about what you wrote and there is definitely validity. That idea of non-thinking reaction, that's pretty key and the problem is that my reaction right now takes me in the wrong direction.
What I think would get me ahead isn't coaching or video analysis so much as having someone who knows that wave very well, who is a great surfer, and who could explain what to do and how to do it. In the future I'll more actively seek out advice. I want to get these kinks sorted.
Don’t you blaspheme the all mighty thruster. Do some squashes, pull some big boy shorts on and push harder.I just hope it wasn't another "HPSB thruster is the only true way" manifesto!
It’s all I rode for 20 years!Don’t you blaspheme the all mighty thruster. Do some squashes, pull some big boy shorts on and push harder.