Seemed like the opposite this morning - Pyzelbros jelly of all my waves / hatin my gainz.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
dang the spark plug was oozing a milky spice this morning. Felt really good. Nice to get back in the water for at least a day
you should probably get that checked out
Onshore frothy conditions at the reef. WH-CH, shifty and lotsa paddling and dugdiving. Got maybe 4-5 waves in an hour, including blowing a late takeoff on the left. I kept trying to force the right, but running into the next section closing down. Got hung up on one right, and made it to the bottom with my feet 4" apart and stranded with zero momentum... got mowed down. I swear there were some corners out there, but I wasn't really able to find em.
@MathDebater seemed like he was having more luck with the lefts.
We were twinsman bros. it was super cute.
Today was quite a workout, made yesterday's flukey fun conditions seem like a mirage. Winds look iffy for the weekend so glad I at least got wet.
@MathDebater seemed like he was having more luck with the lefts.
We were twinsman bros. it was super cute.
Today was quite a workout, made yesterday's flukey fun conditions seem like a mirage. Winds look iffy for the weekend so glad I at least got wet.
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Hoping to find a moment for a desperation session over the weekend.
Mostly the same as what @oeste858 said. I am worked. It was nice to get out my usual zone and it was definitely bigger than it would've been at my usual spots. I got a bunch of lefts but they mostly ran into a dead zone. There were a few fun steep drops and cutback sections. I am stocked on the twinsman, it felt great even in the lump and bump out there.
Dawned the regular on the Striker. Waves were bigger than I thought. Overhead but onshore and low tide. Would’ve brought the 4X if I had a redo. It’s glassed heavier and has more rocker.
Paddled out right after Barak who was sitting at Big Bowl. Thought I was sitting far enough outside at Middles but got mowed by a set. Paddled over to Big Bowl and was a little hesitant on my boar. Ended up going for a set. Aired the drop and was hoping to setup a barrel but the section that would usually heave crumbled and I jumped off. Making the drop gave me confidence in the boar, which is my good small wave boar.
Ended up bouncing around at Middles and got a couple of clean walls. But there was a lot of dealing with bumps and crumbling sections too.
Lots of swell in the water hoping it cleans up at least a little more.
Paddled out right after Barak who was sitting at Big Bowl. Thought I was sitting far enough outside at Middles but got mowed by a set. Paddled over to Big Bowl and was a little hesitant on my boar. Ended up going for a set. Aired the drop and was hoping to setup a barrel but the section that would usually heave crumbled and I jumped off. Making the drop gave me confidence in the boar, which is my good small wave boar.
Ended up bouncing around at Middles and got a couple of clean walls. But there was a lot of dealing with bumps and crumbling sections too.
Lots of swell in the water hoping it cleans up at least a little more.
Some real size and quality in NOC. Solid chest to head high dominate South w/ a bit of cross from the north(not much) ton of power and barrels to be had. 6-4 inverted vee Twinzer felt solid. Couple rogue sets would have been nice to be on my 6-8 to position for the barrel. Finally clean conditions with almost no wind until I got out at 10:30. Super light crowd for how good it was 
Dawned the regular and finally got some glassy conditions. Was going for too many sets. Most of the bigger slightly overhead waves were breaking out to sea and the closeout section where you can just smash it was soft.
Did manage to get some medium waves that stood up and tubed. Got a quick backdoor coverup on an easy roll in. I love those roll-in take-offs. Fell in the barrel on a couple others.
Best wave as far as turns go was after it turned onshore. Clem knew I wanted to go in and hooted me into a medium one that just kept giving. Did a couple wraps, got a layback cutty and went vert on the inside closeout.
Did manage to get some medium waves that stood up and tubed. Got a quick backdoor coverup on an easy roll in. I love those roll-in take-offs. Fell in the barrel on a couple others.
Best wave as far as turns go was after it turned onshore. Clem knew I wanted to go in and hooted me into a medium one that just kept giving. Did a couple wraps, got a layback cutty and went vert on the inside closeout.
Found some various windows in the last week - got 7 days of surfing in.
Today worked out well started at 545am to catch the tide right - turned into 3.5 hr session, my shoulders/trapz are done. Decided on the 6' 6" Townsend, based on the conditions yesterday, I haven't surfed this board in some time. It felt great getting this board on rail in some head high waves on reef break. Forgot how good this board is.Then followed-up with 5' 4" Will's Fish in waist to stomach beach break, fun speed pumps down the line into mini barrels or big ending carve. Nothing like finishing a session feeling content!
I have been surfing the 5' 6" Pyzel mini ghost a bunch, keep going back and forth between the quad and thruster. They both work so well and provide a different feeling to the board. This is a play board. Also surfed the 5' 6" Disorder in some softer shoulder high as well the 5' 7" Goat at reef break.
It has been a good week! The ocean is cold, so cold, I bought new wetsuit owing to leaks in other ones.
Today worked out well started at 545am to catch the tide right - turned into 3.5 hr session, my shoulders/trapz are done. Decided on the 6' 6" Townsend, based on the conditions yesterday, I haven't surfed this board in some time. It felt great getting this board on rail in some head high waves on reef break. Forgot how good this board is.Then followed-up with 5' 4" Will's Fish in waist to stomach beach break, fun speed pumps down the line into mini barrels or big ending carve. Nothing like finishing a session feeling content!
I have been surfing the 5' 6" Pyzel mini ghost a bunch, keep going back and forth between the quad and thruster. They both work so well and provide a different feeling to the board. This is a play board. Also surfed the 5' 6" Disorder in some softer shoulder high as well the 5' 7" Goat at reef break.
It has been a good week! The ocean is cold, so cold, I bought new wetsuit owing to leaks in other ones.
Dawned the regular on the Striker. Not as glassy as yesterday but not as mixed up swell direction wise. Still head high on the sets. Some lulls but couple of pulses that pumped for 20 minutes straight.
During one of the pulses got my best wave. Steep drop into vert reo into a wrap and a cover up on the end. The crew asked how was that one I told them I got a Malcolm barrel at the end but I kept my eyes open. Haha.
Couple minutes later everyone got a wave and a set popped up right on me. I asked Pat if he wanted it but he didn’t answer so I whipped. I should’ve just let him go even if he missed it out pulled back. After I made the late drop did a wrap and it broke in front of me. Sometimes you can hit that section and it will throw you into the flats and it reforms. But this time it barreled and I tried to kick my boar away from me. Got sent over the falls and dragged my boar toward me and took the rail and maybe some fin to my lip. It was bleeding and my gums were bleeding so I looked like a day walker vampire from Blade. Gotta pay to play. It was minor surfed for a couple more hours. Cheehoo
During one of the pulses got my best wave. Steep drop into vert reo into a wrap and a cover up on the end. The crew asked how was that one I told them I got a Malcolm barrel at the end but I kept my eyes open. Haha.
Couple minutes later everyone got a wave and a set popped up right on me. I asked Pat if he wanted it but he didn’t answer so I whipped. I should’ve just let him go even if he missed it out pulled back. After I made the late drop did a wrap and it broke in front of me. Sometimes you can hit that section and it will throw you into the flats and it reforms. But this time it barreled and I tried to kick my boar away from me. Got sent over the falls and dragged my boar toward me and took the rail and maybe some fin to my lip. It was bleeding and my gums were bleeding so I looked like a day walker vampire from Blade. Gotta pay to play. It was minor surfed for a couple more hours. Cheehoo
Drove south to meet a friend.
Onshore nightmare. WH+ at low tide. Soft n weak. No shoulders. Let’s be honest, it was blown the f-k out. Had 3 boars in the car, opted for da Plasmic over quad fish and TMST. It caught the junky waves, but really not much it could do. I squeezed in one backhand slash on the only bit of open face I saw in an hour. Just me & my buddy out there with a newbie softop who wasn’t in the way and was asking us for pointers LOL
Onshore nightmare. WH+ at low tide. Soft n weak. No shoulders. Let’s be honest, it was blown the f-k out. Had 3 boars in the car, opted for da Plasmic over quad fish and TMST. It caught the junky waves, but really not much it could do. I squeezed in one backhand slash on the only bit of open face I saw in an hour. Just me & my buddy out there with a newbie softop who wasn’t in the way and was asking us for pointers LOL
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“buy 14 boards and 300 yards of Paracord”
Good to see you got some of the Southern Hemi, @teeroi !
Good surf last Wednesday, then too big and wild and windy for 4 days. Cleaned up again today, so took the Ghost out for a fun and surprisingly uncrowded (3 of us) surf at the middle point. The 4-day break was nice, but surfing is better
Another whopping NZ swell is the making the next few day. Hope you score, teeroi.
Good surf last Wednesday, then too big and wild and windy for 4 days. Cleaned up again today, so took the Ghost out for a fun and surprisingly uncrowded (3 of us) surf at the middle point. The 4-day break was nice, but surfing is better
Another whopping NZ swell is the making the next few day. Hope you score, teeroi.
semi junky soft peaks on the mini sim. Board is so damn fun.
Does not look like I have missed much in the last 2 weeks in IB. Morning after morning of onshores. With the La Nina expected to strengthen, makes me wonder if it is going to be like that all summer. Hoping to get at least one session this week in Delaware before I go back to the dirty SW.
Now I remember why I hate 9 second windswell. 
Saw nolibos and a couple others getting out as I arrived a little before 7. Chatted a bit and then paddled out into pretty much a jumbled pile of sh!t. Did a lot of duckdiving at first just to get around the shorebreak; a true joy in 47 degree water. Was a semblance of a peak and the current wasn't too horrible so could stay on it. Waves were about shoulder to head high, a few overhead on bigger sets. Incredibly difficult as you couldn't see waves until you over the previous ones and fast reflexes were necessary to either get in position or duckdive. 9 seconds? Felt more like 4. And the waves were also really dumpy, even tougher with dropping tide. I did get a few good ones but surfed really rusty.
But overall, was good to get out there as really needed to surf. Doing a lot of paddling is also good. Was alone for a while, then three other guys paddled out near me, they also struggled with conditions and didn't see them after about 20 minutes, and was back alone out there. Got a really creepy vibe at one point, didn't see anything but decided it was a good time to go in, asked the gods for a nice left, and they sent me one within a couple minutes. Half-decent wave but surfed it kinda poorly. Waves were absolute trash by then so upheld my end of the bargain and cruised in the rest of the way.
Saw nolibos and a couple others getting out as I arrived a little before 7. Chatted a bit and then paddled out into pretty much a jumbled pile of sh!t. Did a lot of duckdiving at first just to get around the shorebreak; a true joy in 47 degree water. Was a semblance of a peak and the current wasn't too horrible so could stay on it. Waves were about shoulder to head high, a few overhead on bigger sets. Incredibly difficult as you couldn't see waves until you over the previous ones and fast reflexes were necessary to either get in position or duckdive. 9 seconds? Felt more like 4. And the waves were also really dumpy, even tougher with dropping tide. I did get a few good ones but surfed really rusty.
But overall, was good to get out there as really needed to surf. Doing a lot of paddling is also good. Was alone for a while, then three other guys paddled out near me, they also struggled with conditions and didn't see them after about 20 minutes, and was back alone out there. Got a really creepy vibe at one point, didn't see anything but decided it was a good time to go in, asked the gods for a nice left, and they sent me one within a couple minutes. Half-decent wave but surfed it kinda poorly. Waves were absolute trash by then so upheld my end of the bargain and cruised in the rest of the way.