Posted here before:People who make it out in large OBSF are beasts. Forget actually surfing, just paddling out gets major hero points.
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Posted here before:People who make it out in large OBSF are beasts. Forget actually surfing, just paddling out gets major hero points.
This is true.Crowds have shrunk considerably this season and it's glorious.
Season 5 for me. Have I lived through 1 full life cycle of dabblers and trannies?
that's so crazy - i lost count of how many duck dives he had to make. these days, i'm good for like 5-6 duck dives in a row and i'm ready to pack it up....coast in and do the Walk of Shame, back up the beachPosted here before:
5-6 duck dives is just the first 30 seconds on a beefy day here, might go on another15-30 minutes if your timing and or luck is poor. But yeah, in deep winter, 38 degree water and a cold north wind, I’ve been beaten back to the beach pretty fast on solid days. Sometimes, in that kind of cold, all it takes is getting a few violent duck dives right off the bat to just lock your body up like rigor mortis, and send you fumbling back towards the beach just clinging to your board, unable to breathe or movethat's so crazy - i lost count of how many duck dives he had to make. these days, i'm good for like 5-6 duck dives in a row and i'm ready to pack it up....coast in and do the Walk of Shame, back up the beach
I don't know how you do it up there when the water gets into the 30's. Here in Charleston water might get down to 45 deg in midwinter. Throw in a head high 7 second NE windswell and no time to recover from ice cream headaches and it's like, WTF am I even doing out here?5-6 duck dives is just the first 30 seconds on a beefy day here, might go on another15-30 minutes if your timing and or luck is poor. But yeah, in deep winter, 38 degree water and a cold north wind, I’ve been beaten back to the beach pretty fast on solid days. Sometimes, in that kind of cold, all it takes is getting a few violent duck dives right off the bat to just lock your body up like rigor mortis, and send you fumbling back towards the beach just clinging to your board, unable to breathe or move
that last question pops into my head more and more with every winter, and I used to LOVE winter surfing. I still do, when you get one of those magical sunny days, head high+, light north winds, not bitterly cold, and you feel just fine and cozy in your 5 or 6 mil armor. Days like that make you feel like you've basically "stolen" a perfect surf day out of winter's brutal grasp, cause you're out there frolicking around in water than would otherwise kill you in less than an hour.I don't know how you do it up there when the water gets into the 30's. Here in Charleston water might get down to 45 deg in midwinter. Throw in a head high 7 second NE windswell and no time to recover from ice cream headaches and it's like, WTF am I even doing out here?
OB is 10x what we face on the heaviest of days.id like to THINK that because we grew up duck diving for 20 minutes or more in 40 degree water that we (north easterners with some large wave experience/competence) would MAYBE have a bit of a head start in tackling solid OB, but then I look at some of those clips of when it’s double overhead or bigger, and I think “it doesn’t matter that the water is 15 degrees warmer than our winter temps, and the air temps 30 degrees warmer, that s hit is HEAVY”
OB is about 10x more heavy with much stronger current than your typical EC <12 sec period shallow water beach break, the only place that could come close is the OBX. Nobody is riding an 8ft gun in solid surf on the EC, it just isn't necessary.id like to THINK that because we grew up duck diving for 20 minutes or more in 40 degree water that we (north easterners with some large wave experience/competence) would MAYBE have a bit of a head start in tackling solid OB, but then I look at some of those clips of when it’s double overhead or bigger, and I think “it doesn’t matter that the water is 15 degrees warmer than our winter temps, and the air temps 30 degrees warmer, that s hit is HEAVY”
Plus imagine having to duck those big boards hundreds of times, god level fitness required.OB is about 10x more heavy with much stronger current than your typical EC <12 sec period shallow water beach break, the only place that could come close is the OBX. Nobody is riding an 8ft gun in solid surf on the EC, it just isn't necessary.