.I thought that too: You are only as old as your injuries.
Old people get all bitter and mean because they are in pain,
Old people get all bitter and mean because they are in pain,
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Nice shot, and it really illustrates the point.Love reading this stuff.
Here is a shot from the trip, great photo bomb! Maybe it was the caliber of the guys in the water that made me feel like Wilbur Kookmeyer. Got waves, good ones, but the dude in the background was making these airs: like okay I'm humbled and hey watch me I can do a cut back.
View attachment 109633
That was a respectable cut back. Guy in the back is just a show off.Love reading this stuff.
Here is a shot from the trip, great photo bomb! Maybe it was the caliber of the guys in the water that made me feel like Wilbur Kookmeyer. Got waves, good ones, but the dude in the background was making these airs: like okay I'm humbled and hey watch me I can do a cut back.
View attachment 109633
Near Nine Palms? Only heard of that spot, sounds nice! As is the whole peninsula I am sure, have not done a trip there...yet!What about buying real estate in Baja?
Mitchel was trying to sell Baja real estate.Near Nine Palms? Only heard of that spot, sounds nice! As is the whole peninsula I am sure, have not done a trip there...yet!
Right?"Can your surfing improve after years of surfing"?
Um, I'm not sure there's any other way
Repetition creates mastery.
10,000 hours, or so I'm told.
How frequent helps too.
it's a temporary improvement, skill is fleeting and needs to be cemented over years of repetition not two weeks.@santacruzin, how old are you?
Are you surfing better now than when you left Santa Cruz?
Or at least better than when you arrived to Indo?
Yes, but that's not the questionit's a temporary improvement, skill is fleeting and needs to be cemented over years of repetition not two weeks.
Will you just quit already!! Your daughter surf's waves that we can only dream of. Your surfing skills are duly noted along with your list of conquering Wahine's from foreign countries.why not?
stay in shape - stretch and wave knowledge can make you better
i am not sure if i can surf 3 ft huntington
but 6 ft plus tubes i am surfing betten than i ever haveill
will be 50 in august
how bout keep going with a motorized surfboard?I started surfing at about 15, peaked in my 20s, started the slow decline in my 30s, quit riding 2X OH or bigger waves in my 40s, longboarded through my 50s, and now am old and fat and bald.
Was just about to reply.@santacruzin, how old are you?
Are you surfing better now than when you left Santa Cruz?
Or at least better than when you arrived to Indo?
Was just about to reply.
I am 45 in pretty good shape , intermediate surfer not a ripper but competent enough.
Surfing better than I have in 10 years, confirmed by my friend who has surfed with me forever.
the final week in Indo things clIcked, started link things together. Had some of the best turns of my life in meaty waves.
Barrel riding has improved off the charts too (for me). My scary scale has also gone way up haha.
I was surfing 3 times a day for almost 3 weeks in perfect surf. if I didn’t get better I would be bummed.
I also lost about 8-10 pounds and my cardio is off the charts right now, skated with my kids and ran them ragged.
my opinion. If you surf a ton and stay fit you can improve as long as your body lets you.
waves here are not doing it though, indo ruined me
I surf a lot, what's interesting is I probably surf my best after not surfing for 2 weeks.The 10k rule is about deliberate practice and not just repetition. With repetition you could be reinforcing bad habits and just doing what feels good rather than actually improving. It's about pushing yourself a bit beyond your comfort zone and learning new techniques or 'patterns' from an expert or creative heuristic.
Because it's surfing "opportunity" is a big issue and because it takes going beyond your comfort zone "desire" or staying motivated is also key.
When I got divorced I lost 15 -20 pounds and people said the same sh!t, umm no I am just in shape now you dumbassesI always tell people about the weight loss thing and how surfing a lot will keep your calories in check. It is insane how many lbs you can drop.
I'm a lean guy and was a gone a few months in my early 20s, probably lost 10 -15 lbs. Later found out people in my social circle assumed it was drug addiction.